What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

That makes sense. Thanks for explaining.

Who sells the stick on covers?

 

This thread for that. Not sure it matches curves of the Tundra.

I got some bed tie downs thinking they should fit the Tundra too and they are off by a hair. Sometimes things look unchanged but Toyota did something small and barely noticeable which matters.

 

Have you checked your brake proportioning valve? My rear brakes on my 2002 Tundra stopped working until I replaced it with this part. Works as expected now. I did not have to rebuild the brake cylinders.

beler Brake Proportioning Valve Fit for Toyota Tundra V6 3.4L 4.0L V8 4.7L 2000-2006 47910-34060

$46 beler Brake Proportioning Valve Fit for Toyota Tundra V6 3.4L 4.0L V8 4.7L 2000-2006 47910-34060

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082PQ3YWQ?_encoding=UTF8

 

Let me know when 1st Gen DIR kits are available. I may need one when I move my camera from my plate to the tailgate handle.
PT Auto Warehouse TO-3951A-TGC - Tailgate Handle - Textured Black, with Camera Hole

$85 PT Auto Warehouse TO-3951A-TGC - Tailgate Handle - Textured Black, with Camera Hole

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08843SM3R?_encoding=UTF8

 

I think after @shifty` ’s success we have the spec. So order away with the form in my signature. I changed truck year to type in and added notes so if you would like any of the wires tapped you can let me know. @shifty` wanted a tap of reverse and ground for camera power.

 

Yeah, but I gotta say, we got our 1st big load of Other Half into the state this week, and some hit my local bottle shop. So I've been enjoying that the past several days. So far, Broccoli, Mylar Bag, and Cheddar have been 99s in my book. Dunno where they got the weird names, but ...

I was really digging on Wild Leap and Trimtab there for a while, but last 18ish months, way too sweet, far too much lactose in their IPA/DIPAs.

I see @daveeasa already covered purpose, but ... with LED tag lights the glare interference seems to be way worse from pics I've seen (only for those who mount their camera at the top of the license plate). I still have halogen tag lights, but that'll be changing soon, I have LED bulbs already. And my camera will get installed soon, so I'm ripe for my tag lights shining LED light into the camera at night. Hence the DIR harness need.

I mean, is it worth $120 to rule out that being a potential problem, and if it's OK, having known-good spares on-hand? However....

I kinda wondered about this also, whether PV had been bled, if yes, is it good? I might consider replacing it instead, and taking up the potential freebie offer a few posts up from @des2mtn

 

Interesting. Easy to replace?

 

I had to redo some of my electrical wiring for my bed LEDs. The bed LED wattage was too much for my magnetic switch that it melted.

I learned to always use a relay for anything above 15 watts. This time I drilled a hole and put a push pin switch. The magnet was held on by double sided tape and did not feel secure to me. I kept having to glue and adjust the one on the tailgate itself.

I wired the relay using the ground as the trigger. I also use a 1N4007 diode to control the amperage going to the led light ring built into the round switch.

On the switch itself:
1. Red wire goes to power from taillight to turn the led ring on the switch when lights are on. I have the 1N4007 diode running between the taillight power and the red wire to the round switch.
2. Black wire goes to ground for the led ring in the switch.
3. White connects to push pin that is grounded when the tailgate is open.
4. Brown ground trigger wire connects to the ground trigger #85 on the relay.
5. Blue wire not used.

On the Relay itself:
1. 30 and 86 connected to fused wire coming directly from battery.
2. 85 connected to brown ground trigger wire from the switch.
3. 87 connected to positive lead on bed LEDs.

Bed LEDs itself:
1. Positive lead connected to 87 on the relay.
2. Negative lead connected directly to ground.

Pictures and parts below.

Nickel Plated Pin Switch w/Polycarb Plunger and Rubber Boot

$4 Nickel Plated Pin Switch w/Polycarb Plunger and Rubber Boot

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001TQPM6Q?_encoding=UTF8

Cafurty 1N4007 DO-41 Axial Silastic Guard Junction Standard Rectifier Diode (Pack of 20)

$10 Cafurty 1N4007 DO-41 Axial Silastic Guard Junction Standard Rectifier Diode (Pack of 20)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00W17LOBO?_encoding=UTF8

1 Pack 40/30 AMP 12 V DC Waterproof Relay and Harness - Heavy Duty 12 AWG Tinned Copper Wires, 5-PIN SPDT Bosch Style Automotive Relay

$10 irhapsody 1 Pack 40/30 AMP 12V DC Waterproof Relay and Harness - Heavy Duty 12 AWG Tinned Copper Wires, 5-PIN SPDT Automotive Relay

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074QV54V1?_encoding=UTF8

 

Yes. Easier to get to if you take down your spare tire. Have a tub ready. Fluid will drain when you make the swap.

I heard people talk about rusted bolts breaking removing this part. I did not have that problem. I soaked the two bolts holding it on with WD-40.

 

If your rear brake drums brake when you have the rear lifted then you probably do not need to replace the brake proportioning valve. I would start by bleeding it first. It has a bleeder valve. See picture

 

Switched out some 'Window Treatments' on my 06 DC . . . the prior owner used the truck to store a dozen surfboards . . . didn't want people peeping all his sticks . . . so he bought some heavy Hawaii'n print canvas and had it cut/hem'd/ sewn and velcro added to cover the shell windows. I wasn't a fan at 1st . . . but I really liked the privacy / and it keeps the shell cooler for a bit in the heat. My buddy's heckled me when i showed them . . . they said, "What's up with the Boogaloo Curtains Bro"??? LOL . . . so i started looking for a new option.

I came across an authentic US Navy Digital Camo print material that matches the color of my rig almost perfectly. Really heavy duty stuff . . . So I bought a couple yards and had the lady at the cleaners make me up a new set . . . .

Here's the old


and the new . . .

 

I haven't followed your whole ordeal, but a cylinder that has inner seal leaks, but no sign of outer seal leaks, will cause a spongy pedal. Did you peel back the bottom lip of all 4 outer seals and verify it was 100% dry. If the inner seal leaks just slightly you will have reduced pressure on the piston and compressing air in the outer chamber, same as air in the lines, that air will feel spongy at the pedal. I have had cylinders that weren't weeping externally at visual inspection that had fluid in the outer chamber. New inner seals corrected the spongy pedal. check the seal at absolute bottom 6 o'clock where even minimal inner seal leakage will collect. If you check above that, you may not see fluid even though it is in there.

 

Haven't tried any of those ones yet. That's the trick with the doubles. Sometimes they can be too sweet to try and cover the high ABV. Do you guys get Burial where you are? They always do some killer stuff too.

 

I got these JBA 2010SJSs today. I have some work to do. Despite what you people say, these WILL increase HP! Or at least look and sound cool and fix my leak.

 

Awesome. These look amazing. You installing yourself?

 

Yes sir! Thanks, they do look nice.

 

Did a quick wire loom wrap of the shell quick connect. I still need to do the fuse block etc. and run a thicker gauge wire to the battery, so I left the rest alone. But I didn't want those wires coming though the bed to get damaged from vibrations. The tech flex looks nicer than the other loom IMO.

Picking up my Stealth 6 rims tomorrow. I need to figure out what tires I want to get. I know we hate the "what tires should I run", but would love recommendations. Going to step up to 285/70R17s. I figure that's a good compromise of being bigger without needing to do anything crazy.

 

yes these will increase hp a little but that real magic is the torque increase feels. get some percy cable taylor gaskets for the block and some remflex blank sheet for the cat flanges and make your own using the jba as a template. have some permatex high temp gasket maker for the pesky y-pipe. hope you’ve all new nuts and bolts on hand prefEr toy oem..

 

Seeing the red surround brings back memories.

 

Cerwin Vega!

 

I had 2 15” DVC Vegas as a kid. Built a ported box as big as I could fit in the back seat of my ‘83 prelude. Had to use the seat belts and front seat headrests to keep it from tilting while braking. It was loud, not particularly deep.

Shipped them to college and built proper boxes for each. About hip high and 100 lbs of what I think was freaking 3/4particle board because I couldn’t afford or find MDF. Freshman in college and no car, NJ so I was at others mercy. Shipped those things back to Cali and sold them off a few years ago. Probably should have kept them.

I do still have a box I built for our Mazda 626’s (we had two, both stick, one grey one silver) and JL 12’s sitting in storage. All ready to go. Just in case I ever own a hatchback or sedan again.

 

I had dual 12s, 3/4 particle board was the go-to. I think mine were sealed...I didn't really appreciate low until I got a Velodyne in the house.

 

Yes, I have all the gaskets & OEM studs/nuts. Thanks to all the Pioneers around here! I will try to tackle this tomorrow.

 

its a 2-3 job if you have 4wd lolzzz..

 

Yes! Surfwax is a solid go-to for me, as long as it's less than 6wks old.

The Carolinas have a lot of solid breweries I love getting beers from there when possible. Burial and Westbrook are easy finds down here, Thomas Creek is also around, but others like Eighth State, Tetrad are a little harder to come by.

Wicked Weed was also great for a moment in time but kinda find a rut and stuck in it for the stuff they're bottling and sending out. Pernicious started getting hammered here 6-8 years ago and everyone was gaga about it, but they haven't been exporting much other than that. You can get some really good stuff in their brewhouse.

I dunno if you ever get anything from Parish up your way, but if you do, and you like IPAs, Ghost in the Machine is killer, so is their 4xDH. But you gotta get it fresh, the flowers fall off once you get to ~2mos out. We've got a lot of great stuff down here in ATL also. But about 40% is just garbage, 50% average-to-solid, 10% putting out killer brew.

If you're ever in ATL, I can give you the laundry list of what to hit. But if you go nowhere else, you need to hit Biggerstaff. If you give me a holler in advance, I can line up a walkthru with the brewers and tasting as long as it's not a Monday or Tuesday. I've been drinking their beer for 10-15 years now, he finally decided to go public.

 

My 2nd car was a well-used 1987 Civic 4dr sedan. Had a single CV 15" in the rear, sealed cube. I always thought their logo and the red foams looked way more attractive than most were putting out. But you never see it - it's in the trunk! That thing would thump, but back then (at 16) I couldn't afford to buy an amp that'd properly push it.

Actually, just remembered - that system is what ended up getting my first job at the audio and tint shop. Totally forgot about that!

 

I had the same job until I ran a support screw in the back of pull out chassis into the ECU...

 

I mentioned recently in several threads about how I don't drill holes in vehicles unless there's no alternative. Mentioned it in Dave's DIR bypass harness thread, and again some other thread about wanting to install an amp tray under passenger side seat for my JL 900/5.

That no-drill stance is for similar reasons. We had one guy who drilled an amp to the floor of some little import and tagged a brake line. Almost killed the customer, which in turn put the shop out of business one legal battle was completed.

 

Well, I don't think I ever drilled blind again.

 

They’ll add power no doubt. Their biggest downfall is zero attempt at equal length runners. But that’s impossible with where they go.