Front locker on 1st Gen

I lost the data I used to have on this. I had an excel sheet with a years worth of data. The surprising thing was the K&N hit air intake gave me an mpg bump.

The data I gathered was mostly highway miles. My work commute at the time was 2 miles of stop lights and 15 miles of highway one way. On long drives (stock intake/shorties/4.56/33s) I can clear 20 mpg but only if I stay 65 and under. 80mph gives 17 mpg tops which isn't bad.

 

2WD guys always rubbing their great MPG in our face

 

Hahaha! Of course! I have to make up for my limits off road.

It sounds like our trucks are right about on par though. The 20 mpg I can hit is only with self control on trips 150 miles or more. Ventura to San Diego (leaving at 6am to avoid traffic) or Ventura to Vegas for example. I have stretched just above 20mpg from my house to San Francisco but only from the grapevine grade north, there is ko mpg to be saved climbing that hill.

 

also i think the balck adds a special solar mpg push

 

I’d like e-lockers i think ive got enough self control i can keep from ruining a cv. And if im gonna have a switch for the front, i should have a switch for the rear. I havent decided on a tire size yet, but i do plan on adding some weight, and now this is my only vehicle capable of hauling weight.

 

White reflects light, so should work when the sun is behind you. Black works when its above and in front of you.

 

You're running larger tires, 34’s+ if I remember so might be better off with the 4.88’s.

 

I have 4.88 w/ 35s and manual hubs, great around town but highway if you're going faster than 70 starts to spin a bit faster. Really shouldn't go that much faster w/ 35s and our marginal brakes so I guess it works. Long highway fast highway trips you can get it running 2500-2800 if you are doing 75-80. Engine doesn't care, wallet does. Average 11-12mpg; truck is 5600 lbs with me (220 lbs) and a full tank of gas.

Now that I have the supercharger wishing I had 4.56 but the timing of mods and supercharger falling in my lap didn't line up that way. Its not my DD anymore so whatever, happy to have more power down low which is always fun just wish I had the incremental added strength of the 4.56 in the front diff for a truck that weighs so much.

Regarding front lockers I have F/R ARBs and manual hubs; the front locker is an o $hit get out of trouble button, nothing else.

I think front selectable locker is the way to go, also strengthens the needle bearings from what I have heard.

 

How much did the SC set you back?

 

Oh geeze, I should put this in my build thread.

Long story, but James McCann (I hereby refer to "Tundra God") as he knows any and all things about forced inductions on these engines and was instrumental and crucial to me getting this installed (Thanks James!). He found a blower on ebay for me, seller found 2 BRAND NEW UNITS at an estate sale and sold the less pretty one (which was pretty mint) to me for $2800. I had to piece together the rest; all I got was the actual supercharger w/pulley attached and the cert for flow testing on the 9th and 10th injectors.

I'll post the rest of the details in my build thread one of these days but looking at my excel sheet which I need to refresh the blower was $2800 and I had to source ALL OTHER PARTS. Fuel lines, unichip, intake, misc hardware, tune, etc.

Per my sheet it was $6100 in parts (I did the labor which was fun, not impossible and dooable for most mechanically inclined people), including a $650 Tune (which I highly recommend), AFR and boost gauge. Including tools I bought and other things I am sure its closer to 7k but I probably stopped doing the addition for a reason....Also already had shorty headers and a muffler in place which I am looking to modify to long tubes if I can get away with in in CA with Burns Stainless X-Pipe and long tube headers.....(1-2K more).

I also did a Trans Throttle Body modification ($750, cant remember), it all adds up.

All in lets call it 7K which my labor on the install - these bad boys aren't cheap.

Okay, you all want to know, was it worth it?

YES! Thing Hauls A$$, super fun to drive, love the noise, attention, power etc.

With some caveats - you MUST get it tuned, my factory tunes were garbage and I was lean AF until I got it tuned for my truck with the gears and 35s. After tune ran so much better.

Runs fantastic now but there is still something in the back of my head always as its not a stock oem N/A motor anymore; there is inherent risk in aftermarket engine mods in the middle of nowhere.

Would I do it again if I had the money? SURE! If I had to pick between that and doing the rears suspension of my tuck first I would pick rear suspension (which I am tackling now), but with these things if it comes up you have to jump on it or it is gone forever. Bought this truck with 11 miles on it, 160k now, will keep it forever, blower was always on the list, had to act.

Anyways, OP, sorry for the book, but wanted all to know.

How are the gears treating you? Exciting stuff!

 

4wheelparts lists 12 Eaton E-lockers for Toyotas.

4wheelparts lists Eaton elockers for toyota from $1250-$1550. A Harrop elocker based obn the Eaton design is $1200-$1400.

I want some of that stuff you're smokin.

 

So, @Voss, if I read this correctly you went from 3.91 to 4.56 and added Eaton front locker, keeping stock LSD for the rear, you are in so cal on 33’s and happy? Your truck is 4 or 5 speed (not sure on 2003 and vvti)

I’m contemplating something similar.

 

Yes to all except I replaced the original LSD with a Nitro Helix LSD. Was told this LSD has more contact points than other LSDs and they don’t wear out.

5 speed if I’m not mistaken but no vvti. Those came in 2004.

I like my setup for the driving I do(lots of mountain driving). If I didn’t drive in windy mountain roads often/most of my trips, I would’ve gotten a true locker in the rear over the LSD.

 

If I had a SC I’d be writing books about it too lol. Congrats!

 

Thanks @Voss

I’m wondering how 4.56 will fare with my 4 speed. Going to run some numbers.

 

I think you guys both have the 4speed, but the final gear ratio will be the same from 5 to 4 speed

 

^ This. O/D is almost identical on both trans.

With a 4 speed and towing use going for 4.56 instead of 4.3 (if that is your original thought) is an advantage as you don't have that lower 1st gear, like those with the 5 speed do.

 

Thank you so much. I'm thinking maybe I will bite on 4.56 then, especially if you think that's a good plan. And then may as well go Eaton front locker to get myself out of sticky situations. So the only question I have left is to keep the OEM LSD or go Nitro or Eaton w locker. I'm noodling on that one...

 

6.10’s in OD is equal to 4.10’s in 3rd. Fyi.

 

Crazy. I can’t get over 15 even all highway with my truck. I really thought the 4.56 gears would help.

 

99-04 Tundras all came with a 4 speed; A340F. 2005+ got the 5 speed plus the VVTI (variable valve timing intelligence) which brought the Tundras (all formats are tuned a bit differently) from 245 HP to 282 HP and 315 TP to 325 TQ.

RockyMtnRay back in the Tundra Solutions Days had 265/75/16 and did a lot of mountain towing, he did 4.30, muffler and headers, was very happy with it.

For the cost of a re-gear and how easy our trucks engine spins I wouldn't hesitate to do 4.56, remember it loves to rev and max tq. is achieved at 3400RPM.

daveeasa what tires do you have / thinking about running? That's the important question for you.

Regarding my crap mileage some got better engines I guess, it has always been low. On an all highway run I could probably eek out 14, Ill check next time I do a road trip. Keep in mind its weight, has full armor (BruteForceFab front bumper, sliders, rear bumper, winch, full skids). Ironically it has manual hubs which I did not notice making any difference but happy to have. My speedo is also corrected with yellowbox so no mis-reads on distance.

Interesting fact, just picked up a 05 GX470 on 285/70/17 (33s) on stock gearing and it does just fine. A little lower would be nice; I would probably do 4.30 but for the cost of the gears just not worth it in my mind. Gets 10-11 around town, can pull 15 all highway. Another point of reference and yes that lower 1st gear is SUPER nice.

http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html

This is a great tool and you can run side by side comparisons on gears with RPMs and relative speed.

99-04 4 speed trans is 340F (for gear ratio comparison purposes)
05+ 5 speed trans is 750F

340F vs. 750F
1st Gear 2.8 / 3.52
2nd Gear 1.53 / 2.04
3rd Gear 1 / 1.4
4th Gear 0.71 / 1
5th Gear 0.72

Here's the RPM comparison

stock
265/70/16 - 285/75/16 - 285/75/17 - 315/70/17
3.91 70mph 2133
4.56 70mph 2488 - 2319 - 2251 - 2216
4.88 70mph 2578 - 2482 - 2409 - 2372

Okay, another book, hope this helps!

 

Thanks @Blueranger501. I’ve been playing with that calculator a bunch.

I think I’m sold on 4.56. I’m thinking 33’s assuming I can fit with SPC UCA and Fox 2.5 coil overs on a setting which is hopefully near 2-2.5” of lift.

I didn’t realize the vvti added that much HP! Boy do I have 2005-2006 envy now.

Can’t decide if I’m keeping stock alloys or going with something else, presumably 17’s. So waiting on tires till I figure that out. But no big deal on being overgeared in the meantime as it’s not a daily and I don’t need to go past 60 really

 

Ran 3.91s on 286/75/16 for 150k miles, did just fine but 4.46 would have been FUN and kept that original snappiness from stock. Obviously slower in acceleration and had to downshift to 3rd on bigger hills, no big deal but for sure would pull better w 4.56.

I think you’ll be stoked on that right on!

 

Any advice for me on Eaton front locker yes/no? I doubt I’ll ever need it but seems like the right time to do it if I do it.

 

Personal preference on that one, for me I wanted OBA (you should too!), so ARB made sense. I don't know how long the eaton takes to engage; ARB is instant. Also if you have to be in a straight like like our 4WD - could be tricky if you are in a situation where you need eaton to engage and you cant due to wheel / vehicle position. Another way to think about it is what do you trust more to not break? Electrical (corrosion) or air (pressure) connection? Haven't run cost so not sure which is more economical.

 

ARB is cheaper so that’s an idea. I do have ARB twins in boxes waiting for each truck. Interesting counterpoint to the prevailing preference for e lockers among others. Thanks.

 

Ouch. Thats 2nd gen territory. What speeds are you normally going?

I wonder if that visor makes a huge difference.

Hmmm. Do you both have original O2 sensors?

 

Makes little difference if I go 65-70 or 70-75. I generally set my cruise for 72-73.

I have Denso O2 sensors with 45ish thousand miles on them.

 

OK, I've done more research and the clock is winding down so I need to decide soon. Despite some great advice I trust from those in the know, and despite an electrical diff lock in my Tacoma, I think I may be leaning ARB for front locker. My thinking is that my sons show no signs of being able to resist the temptation to do something dumb and break stuff. Hopefully they grow out of some of that but it seems that the air activation should be more robust than magnets, particularly with respect to needing rotation to engage. I'm fully confident I can baby my stuff when I'm in control but I have no such confidence with my kids yet.

So, 4.56, Nitro LSD, ARB front locker is where I sit right now as the most kid-friendly and wife-friendly option which still allows for getting out of sticky situations.

ETA: Though I'm also now left pondering ARB front and rear vs Nitro LSD on the rear. I am pretty sure I'd rather have LSD than open diff on the road which was my primary thinking for the LSD. I think that still holds. What I'm not aware of is how much difference two locked diffs would add over just the front. I tend to think I'm way too much of a wimp to ever be in a situation where the locked rear is the difference once the front is already locked.

 

@alb1k Given my intent to go ARB on front locker, any advice on rear LSD vs arb? My wife will use this rig to drive to the airport and it's meant for my kids who (as mentioned above) show no signs of common sense yet (a guy can hope though, right?)