Wiring Questions -Running Board Courtesy and Turn Signal Lights

I’m about to pull the trigger on these or the OPT7s



OPL5 2PCs Truck LED Running Board Lights Sequential Amber Side Marker Lights 70 Inch Emergency Extended Crew Cab 216 LEDs Waterproof Flexible Turn Signal Light Bar for Pickup Trucks Cars SUV (70 inch)

$35 OPL5 2PCs Truck LED Running Board Lights Sequential Amber Side Marker Light 70" Emergency Extended Crew Cab 216 LEDs Waterproof Flexible Turn Signal Light Bar for Pickup Trucks Car (70in)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XG195WY

I’ll only be hooking up the courtesy lights and the turn signal and not the DRL. I’ll Positap the courtesy wire into the footwell light both positive and negative, unless there is a better/different way?

For the turn signal, what is the best way to tap it? I am currently running an LED tailgate bar and have spliced into a CURT 7 to 4 pin for the reverse. Is it possible to tap into the CURT adapter for turn signal without brake? Or would it power when braking as well? Here is how I have the reverse light tapped into the CURT.



Or do I need to go forward and tap directly at the headlight? Are there any interior wires that go to the turn signal I could access? Rather than going outside?

Thanks in advance!!

 

You can tap trailer turn and add a converter box to seperate brake and turn signal. Cost about $25 for the converter.

 

I have the Opt7. Took several tries to get it set right.

Whites were tied in to the cargo light wiring under the kick panel, which was simple enough.

I first tried pulling the turns from the flasher relay under the dash, which was a huge pain and ultimately resulted in the side lights being on full time like DRLs and then flashing when the turns were activated. I then tried pulling from the 7-pin, which as you already know is turn/brake combined and therefore caused things to act funky. I then did what I should have done from the start, which was to unbolt the taillight housings and pull directly from the turn signal wiring running to the tail. Works great.

 

I’ll most likely end up going this route. I was hoping to avoid truly tapping into the truck and risking a warranty void. Hence the way I tapped into the CART adapter for the tailgate bar, I never wired to the truck itself and could unplug if needed. Same with the courtesy lights. I’m running plug and play VLED foot well lights and will tap there instead of the truck. Was hoping I could tap at the CART trailer adapter. Not afraid to truly tap the truck just hopeful to avoid it.

Do you recommend the OPL5s? Any issues?

 

I plan on reversing the direction of the sequential so the tails may be closer. Thank you for your hard earned wisdom lol.

 

This is a genius idea. I had no idea these existed. This is what you’re talking about? Oyviny 2-to-3-Wire Splice-in Trailer Tail Light Converter Electrical System Turn Signal Brake Wire Harness Adapter Color Coded for Trailer RV Dinghy Towing Pickup Trucks Vans

$19 Oyviny 2-to-3-Wire Splice-in Trailer Tail Light Converter for Trailer RV Dinghy Towing Pickup Trucks Vans Electrical System 2-to-3-Wire Taillight Converter Turn Signal Brake Light Adapter

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08MZ9CC2S

 

This will allow me to splice again into the CURT 7 pin to 4 adapter for the running lights for the turns, leave my splice into the reverse where it is and the brake light bar will function properly without ever tapping an actual wire on the truck. Love it, thank you.

 

Yes, yw! Happy truckin'!

 

These things will lead to issues years down the road. They work by slicing the insulation, but 99% of the time will slice the wire too. Given enough time and vibration, they continue to slice through. Add in the water penetration and the issues there, and in a few years, you have an issue. @TundrasseeMan if you want to tap just the turns (or reverse, or brake, or running lights, or probably anything else), feel free to hit me up. I make brake taps Plug and Play Brake taps | Toyota Tundra Forum (tundras.com) But can make the same thing for turn signals easy enough. I can also make taps for the trailer harness, but I don't keep parts for that at the ready.

 

Hey man, I need help, I can’t figure out the best way to get to the turn signal up front. How’d you do it?

 

I could never find the right wire up at the front, which is why I ended up running wires back to the taillights. I am running aftermarket headlights, so that could be part of the problem. Someone with stock headlights might be able to chime in.

 

Man if you have a chance to snap a pic of how you ran it, and that harness you zipped to that would be awesome and I’d be forever grateful. I think I know the one but just want to confirm.

 

Thanks brother! This is exactly what I needed. I had originally gone that way but I don’t have the wire wrapped in anything and that made me nervous where it was sitting so I thought maybe behind the wheel well and that was a pain in the ass so I aborted. Looks like I’ll order some sheath and go this route.I plan on hooking the amber DRL to the fogs.

 

for the courtesy light portion I would recommend running the wires up through the rocker panel on the drivers side rear door sill area and connecting to the cargo light wires there. That way you can choose to turn the lights off, on with door open (standard courtesy function), or on all the time with the factory bed cargo light switch on the dash.

 

I installed Vled footwell lights and tapped those. Nice dimming functionality when locking and unlocking.