What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Should be able to if you do a 3 inch in front and have the adjustable ucas set toward the front a few degrees if you have the right backspacing and do minor trimming. I've got 295/75r16s and I'm sure if I put the ucas up one more notch to the front (max, I'm currently 2nd from front) I could fit 285/75r17s. So that would take me from approx 33.4x11.6 to 33.8x11.4 iirc

 

Ok cool, I should be good then. I'm trying to fill the wheel well without major rubbing.
I'll be installing a 4 corner 2.5" Ironman lift, SPC uca's and probably these Method wheels.

 

Those are sharp. Love the design and color.

 

I'm running OMEs with 2885s. SPC UCAs, and new OEM LBJs and LCAs. Sounds good to revisit the alignment. I'll see if I can get that addressed next week. It's only rubbing when I go in reverse at a certain angle it would seems.

 

...and goodbye.

 

2.5+ is where it is at.

You have the movement backwards. Increasing caster moves the LOWER ball joint forwards OR the upper backwards.

So it appears they did a very minimal job. They did not adjust caster correctly/evenly. Or they did not do a caster sweep after adjusting like they should have.

I see slight change on pass camber which means something was done but the caster should also have changed a bit. As both caster and camber move when doing the adjustment with the eccentrics.


Also how bent is your rear axle housing? 3.2° camber is pretty significant. Should be visible by eye.

 

Lol! Been there, done that.

 

Um. I have no idea actually. Will look tomorrow and snap a picture. Hadn't even noticed/reacted to that.

 

Where's it rubbing? Rear wheel well when you turn? What's the spc ucas set to?

 

Saw your FB post...I think it looks good man! Try a little more heat and stretch before you trim and tuck. I left excess vinyl on the edges and stuck it to the bumper. Then i tucked it in and trimmed after. Easier for me that way to get less wrinkling. If you get better at it by the time you finish the last one, go back and do the first one again. That's the beauty of such an easy cheap mod. Don't be so tough on yourself, its only a couple bucks and a half hour of your time for a pretty major transformation!

 

About to pull the rears off now to match.

It's was rubbing when in reverse and the wheel was turned slightly. The rubbing was on the mud flat in the rear of the wheel well on the front tires. Need to try it right now that I removed the mud guard last night, and I also need to see if I can have the alignment tweaked. I'm not sure what the SPC UCAs are set to, can I inspect that visually?

Thank you! Yea, I'm hard on myself about stuff like this, but agree. I did buy about 2x the material for exactly this reason. I'll keep at it. And thank you. Will try some more heat.

 

Or a clear sign of operator failure at the shop. I don't know how you'd eff that one up, but ...

 

I pulled the rest of the mud guards off. I think it's looking pretty good.

 

I mean I get what mud flaps are for but it just looks so much better without em lol

 

True my last dyno run shows on the sheet that he held the final run in 2nd or 3rd gear. I've seen our flywheel numbers anywhere from 270-276 and 315 to 325 tq.

 

I like it as-is. This is ultimately the look I'm going for, only I don't have the bumper chrome strip, and the chromed grille is coming soon.

Looks great, good job so far!

 

Thanks! Now I just need my headlights and more than one fog light and I'll be in good shape. The rubbing is at least gone. And it's a cleaner look.

 

Installed the air compressor mount that @FrenchToasty built. I had to make a few minor modifications and bend some brake lines, but it worked out great. Thanks again. Also mounted the compressor on it, hood closes fine. Now to work on the air intake and wiring.

 

Ok well the seat belts came out pretty effortlessly. Now to send them in a wait a few days. Here are some quick pics of what the assembled bolts/washers/lock washers look like in the correct order. Gotta make sure to back out the black tab on the pretensioner cable plug. It’s just like the airbag plugs essentially.
I MAY have to drive about 3 miles to work one day without the seat belts. Wondering if it will mess anything up but I’m sure it will at least throw a code???

Steps:
Remove side sills
Remove lower B pillar plastic trim piece. It pops straight out from 4 retaining clips (like the door cards) and the top sides pull outwards a bit to separate from the upper b pillar trim piece. Hope that makes sense.

All bolts are 14mm. Will have to check on torques since they aren’t in the chilton’s manual.

^^^bottom anchor^^^

^^^top anchor front with inserted nylon bushing^^^

^^^top anchor back with metal bushing and lock washer^^^

^^^a peak at the pretensioner. You need to pull that black horizontal plastic piece straight out before the plug can pull straight out^^^

I wrote on the sides of each unit just in case they send them back and I’m confused because I’m not sure if they are interchangeable or if it’s obvious when you put them back in. Figured I’d just save myself the headache.

EDIT:

found the torque specs

 

It would be easier to check it with tire off then remove the nut on the upper bj. But of you're not rubbing metal, you're probably fine

 

I don't think seat belts would throw a code. I've driven without em plenty

 

Don’t think you understand what I said. With the pretensioner unplugged???

I’m wondering if it completes the circuit with the pretensioner plugged in or if the truck just sends a signal during an accident for it to lock.

 

Wrapped up my under hood lights and re-installed the door sill kick plates.


https://yotamafia.com/product/kc-cyclone-led-2-light-universal-under-hood-lighting-kit/


*toggle switch mounted to firewall






And the not as cool door sill kick plates lol

 

It will throw an airbag light and disable the airbag system. Once plugged back in the self check happens every key cycle, it will clear itself

 

Nice, the chip test passed!!!! What flavor?
I ran 18psi for 4 days, it was great! Aired up before we left, I definitely need to have them redo the valve stem on the passenger rear, it’s not exposed enough to engage the chuck for sealing/inflating. So this week I’ll get them redone and balance/rotation

 

Oh I see. Not sure either

 

New aftermarket grill, hood release and bumper cover ( what a pain that was!)

 

Nice - on my Z3, I had to buy a special tool to reset the light. I should sell that tool.

 

Stale wavy lays, the dogs will get the rest of them.

That sucks about the stem. Hopefully they can get it cleaned up in there and reseat it in the wheel properly. Are you having discount do it?

 

Looks good - nice work.