Ask the Toyota mechanic!

True, a used transfer case is about the same as the actuator assembly alone.

 

What's considered normal scangauge readings for the two available transmission temperature senders when towing a trailer with a 2021 SR5 Crewmax 4x4 with tow package? At what temperature should I get concerned? GCVW is around 12,100 # with the truck kept slightly under gross. I tow at the recommended 65 MPH or less in drive with T/H. Both scangauge readings are usually around 222*F with the TC going up to 260 very briefly if the TC is unlocked. When this happens I adjust throttle to either downshift or lock the TC. OAT are in the mid 80's*F. Pan temps have been as high as 230 for short periods of time when on some hilly sections of interstate.
I'm interested in setting up a schedule for ATF changes, not getting an aftermarket cooler unless you advise otherwise.
Please let's not let this get into the cooler/no cooler pissing match.
Lastly, thanks for answering our questions here.

 

2008 2wd crew max 104,022 Miles

Anyone ever had or know roughly how much it costs to replace axle seals?
My driver is leaking enough to coat the inside of the wheel. Trucks never seen snow, don’t know how it “went bad”.

 

I wouldn't be overly concerned about the TC temps and 222F is fine for the pan temp. When you start getting up above 240F plus transmission fluid life start to shorten so changing the transmission fluid would help protect the transmission. I did add a transmission cooler to my 2020 and pulled a similar size TT. The only reason I added the cooler was to allow me to extend the life of the transmission fluid so I didn't have to change to fluid as often. I was seeing Temps over 245F when the TC unlocked in hilly terain. The choice on which way to go is up to you. I comes down to how often you tow and the terrain you tow in.

 

It's a fairly easy job to do and you may want to consider doing it yourself if you mechanically inclined. The cost will vary depending on your area but 1 to 1.5 hours is all that it should take to change it

 

Thank you for the reply. I currently plan to at least tow about 2,000 miles a year going south for the winters. Expected non towing after might be an additional 4,000. The coooler option interests me but the thought of possibly voiding my warranty offsets that. I would do most of my own maintenance if possible. Humbly speaking I'd say I have above average mechanical skills and a well equipped shop.

 

I really wouldn't worry about the warranty aspect. My 2020 had a issue with a vibration in 4WD. They had the transmission out and changed the TC and nothing was even mentioned about the cooler. I ended up selling the truck because the issue was never discovered. If you use the Toyota thermostat control and the steel lines to run to the front it's the exact same setup that was used in the older trucks.

 

What are you driving now?

 

I bought a low mileage 2013 Nissan Frontier as a bridge vehicle. It gives me time to decide if I want to buy the new Tundra.

 

2014 tundra CM 4x4 SR5 with 75k miles. Started getting a popping sound when at full or almost full lock. Only at slow speeds like 5mph or less. I can feel it in the steering wheel when It happens. It’s not that consistent but when I notice it its always super slow like pulling out of a parking spot or pulling from my driveway on to the road.

I’ve turned the wheels at full lock to make sure there is no rubbing or anything and that seems fine. Everything is stock. First thought is CV axles even though they look fine and no tears in the boots or leaks anywhere. Any way to test this out? Can I lift the truck up, turn the wheel then in neutral spin the tire to see if it makes the same thud/popping sound? Maybe a balljoint? Thanks in advance.

 

You can test the CV axles by putting the truck in 4WD then steer the wheel to almost full lock and accelerate to put the axle under load. The CV will make a series of clicking noises and get faster with speed. The more common reason for a single pop noise would be a rock or sand trapped between the skid plate at frame. This was very common with the TRD skid plate. Remove the skid plate and see if the noise stops. Also look and you will see a stop where the knuckle and control arm contact under full lock. Take a little grease and smear it on the knuckle at the contact point.
The ball joints are very reliable and last a long time so unlikely it's the ball joints. They tend to squeak when dry or have play but don't pop.

 

Thank you. I will definitely try it in 4wd and try to record if I can. When it happens it definitely is a consistent pop like something that has teeth or gears. It’s not a random 1 time thing or inconsistent rhythm when it’s happening. I have looked at all the skid plate threads and seen some videos and it definitely doesn’t sound like the ones I’ve heard. And feeling it through the steering wheel kind of took the thought of the skid plate away. I can still take that off to double check though. Thank you.

 

Does the popping noise get quicker with speed? Does it happen all the time (2WD and 4WD)? If the noise gets quicker with speed then your looking for something associated with the rotation of the tire so things like CV axle, brake rotor (rubbing), front diff and driveshaft

 

the issue is I can’t get it to make the noise for long enough to see if it is associated with my speed. It will do a few pops and then stop. Seems like it doesn’t do more then 5-10 pops in a row at any time and I haven’t had it happen over a few MPH. After work today I’m going to find a parking lot and see if I can recreate the pop long enough to associate it with speed. And test it out in 4wd. Other than that noise sometimes it seems to drive fine. And I’ve only felt it/heard it in 2WD so far.

 

See if you can do a video of it. It's not sounding like a CV axle.

 

Ya to me it really feels and sounds like the tire rubbing something. It’s more of deeper kind of thud then a metallic clicking sound. And maybe I’m going crazy but I did get new tires recently and they are stock size so I’m not sure. Also did new front pads and rotors recently but haven’t any issues or noise with the brakes since then either and I can’t remember if it ever happened before these 2 things weee done.

 

2018 Tundra with a leaking driver's side cam shaft tower since 5500 miles. Dealership will fix both sides. Currently at 24k miles and the heat shield is pretty well covered for a couple inches around the drip spot. My local mechanic says it's time to fix it because I'll smell it soon and it can only get worse. Most of the truck's miles are mountain driving and towing.

Should I be scared the dealership will screw this up? For a competent Toyota mechanic, is this routine stuff? I know it doesn't pay well, so I plan to say thanks with a bottle of something. Local mechanic says don't worry about it, but I'm worried.

 

The Toyota dealership does this kind of work all the time. I wouldn't worry about getting it done. I do recommend doing both sides. As far as worrying about the leak, it annoying because you can smell it but it's not going to catch fire. It's never going to fix itself and will only get worse over time.

As for giving a gift. Before you bring your truck in ask who the tech is that going to be working on it and how does he like his coffee. On the morning when you bring it in hand him a big cup of favorite blend. You will be amazed how far that cup of coffee will pay off.

 

Thank you for the advice.

 

Here’s a video of the sound.
https://m.imgur.com/a/r6QnaHv

 

What's wrong with the BCM?

 

Sorry but there is no sound. Can you upload it to YouTube?

 

Here’s another video I’m not sure if that other one worked.

here ya go. https://youtube.com/shorts/brWEUDVoXZM?feature=share

not the best but there is a coupl clunks in the beginning of the video and the. Towards the last 10 or so seconds. Sounds like someone is hitting a tennis ball on my floor board.

 

I don’t think it’s a CV axle noise. Check and make sure the bolts on the lower control arms are tight. I’ve heard a similar noise before when someone had an alignment done and they didn’t tighten the bolts up enough. Remove the skid plate to see if the noise goes away and have the front end checked.

 

BCM replacement is a very uncommon thing to do. Have you used techstream to check for codes and see if you have bidirectional control for the items that aren't working? When multiple thing are going wrong it's usually ground issues.

The BCM doesn't control the tpms, SRS and HVAC. The BCM does control the door locks.

 

Piston slap or VVT noise?

I have 60K on my Tundra, and one thing I have hated from the beginning is the valve clatter (or piston slap?) that occurs at light throttle 2-4K. For example, if holding the trans in 2nd or 3rd gear, and accelerate to 2-3K, I can reproduce the sound at will. Off throttle and idle, is normal, harder acceleration, is normal, slight letting off throttle the VVT/cams make quite the racket.

Bought the truck new, has always done it, not gotten any better or worse. Took it to the dealer 5x in the first 24K miles, and they had no answer other than 'some are noisier than others'

Warranty is out now, and I don't expect a problem, no metal in oil at changes, but it still bothers me.

 

How did you check for codes? Did you do any bi-directional activation? Do you have a wiring diagram? Locate and clean all the grounds on the truck.

 

Piston slap is heard mostly on a cold engine start and diminishes as the engine warms up. Try using a 5W30 oil and see if the noise is less. You do have to remember that a four cam engine with long timing chains and VVTIs is going to make some noise. Have you compared it to other Tundras?

 

Did it tow on a flatbed or dragged with just 2 wheels up?
If you watched it get loaded & towed, Check any plugs or wires where security straps or chains were put on your truck. It may have pulled tight and damaged wires or a connector that it won't flow enough amperage now somewhere.

 

Been there, done that. Motor is quieter with the 5W30. I have compared to others, and can hear the same noise, but my truck is louder. Not a big deal, I just don't like it, and it is RIGHT in the 'sensitive tick zone' of my hearing. Is a very 'cammy' motor, and sometimes when getting on it, it reminds me of an old school solid lifter V8 I had in HS. Id I had metal spooge on the magnetic drain plug I'd be worried, but all is well. Is just a noisy motor, and is definitely the VVT. My Gen 3 Coyote motor does the same much to my chagrin. Life is good to be able to own two DOHC V8's ;-)

I just turn up the radio ;-)