ADS shocks

Can confirm this system is "cattle guard on washboard BLM road at 55mph" approved.

 

I recently hit a cattle guard at 55.

 

Based on my recent first person experience, I think your speedometer might be reading a touch low!

 

One helluva an approach to said cattle guard!

 

I was going 56mph

 

And for relevance to this thread, before I went full stupid I had the ADS 3.0 coilovers and 2.5 rear bypasses, it's a really great MT setup.

 

Finally got a free evening with coordinated access to my buddies shop and vehicle lift. Deaver U748s are in, as well as rear shocks. I know they will, but MAN!!! These better settle in a couple inches! Currently 3.75” higher in the back…. Should squat down in the next couple weeks.

I’ve got another free evening tomorrow, so we’ll knock out the front UCAs and coil overs. Alignment scheduled for Friday afternoon, and then to the tire shop for new 275/65-20 Cooper AT3 XLT. Wanted Falkens this time, but availability is scarce and close to $300 more for the set. I’ve got the Coopers on now, just in stock size. I’ve been very happy with their performance and wear, so I’m OK with them again.
Almost ready to rally…


A few things to mention:
The rear sway bar will need to be relocated or longer links made.
I use Firestone airbags with Daystar cradles. The carriage bolts for the cradle mount are too short. Had to go grab longer ones due to Deaver thickness.


Maybe the rear will break in faster if I go find a cattle guard…

 

Like @GodlessPro, I ran ADS before indulging in fiscal irresponsibility. Caution: They may be a gateway drug leading to harder stuff like full LT.

 

Truck is looking good brother, can’t wait to see it when it’s finished

 

Monday. Although, I suspect the ass will still be a bit high though. Give it a few weeks to settle…. Maybe I could toss a couple fat chicks in the back and put a good squash on it…

 

My custom Deavers are U748s plussed up for 700# extra. I did a 1000mi rip to fill a couple mule deer tags last weekend with a full load. Helped settle for sure. Armor going on next week and that should bring it in real nice. Will likely need to adjust preload up front once I hang the bumper, but we'll see!

 

Finally done!

Rear springs and shocks were done after work on Tuesday. Front shocks, UCAs, and Durobumps ent in after work last night.
Alignment and new 275/65-20 Cooper AT3 XLTs installed this afternoon. Had new front brake pads slipped in while we were there because mine were getting pretty skinny…

Little front mud flaps are off already… Going to need to trim the bubble off of the main mud flaps with a Dremel, and all should be good.

My thoughts:
The ride is amazing compared to the factory (non-TRD) gear. Granted, it had 91,000 miles on it. The best words I can use to describe it are “Firm and planted”. Firm doesn’t mean stiff. It means controlled.
I really dig the way it turned out aesthetically, as well as functionally. I’m not a “lifted” truck guy, unless it’s been one of my ‘wheelers. My goal was to keep it fairly low, but I’m a little limited by the height from those rear leaf packs! I’m sure it’ll grow on me more…

The front is about where I want it, but it may go up or down an RCH to match the rear once the Deavers finally settle into their happy place.
The wait was worth it, and I can’t wait to give it a proper workout.

 

Hey everyone,

At some point in the hopefully not too distant future, I’ll be installing my ADS triple bypasses and Deaver 748s on my tundra.

I’ve been researching how to tune them, and have some prior experience with entry level suspension tuning (think spring rates, adjusting clickers, ride height, sag, etc….) but don’t have a ton of first hand experience with bypasses.

For the time being, my truck will be relatively light (crew max) with a spare 35 under the bed and about 200 pounds of extra weight when in the dirt/camping, until the camper gets here anyway.

I was wondering if anyone had any baseline settings that they might have used when starting with tuning the shocks? I realize there’s no substitute for on the ground tuning (which I will be doing) I’m just curious to see if anyone else took notes, or had a good place to start.

thanks!

 

I’d call ADS and chat with Tyler Jameson. He was very helpful when we put my order together. I didn’t go with bypasses for my application. After talking with him, it was determined that my best option was smoothies with a bit more rebound valving than they typically put in the Toyota rears. Awesome support and product.

 

I just found a fun video of a tundra running an ADS setup. Looks good! https://youtube.com/shorts/f9X7wS9uRDI?feature=share

 

been there done that. Pissed me right off.

 

Hey guys, I should hopefully be receiving my ADS system soon, super excited to get these on the truck. I went for the following setup:

Front:

• 2.5" RR coiloevers with 700lb spring, no adjusters
• MCM UCA's with the icon delta joint (instead of the uniball)
• duro bumps

Rear:

• Deaver U748's
• Triple bypass shocks (deaver spec)
• ADS bump stops

I am planning to install all this myself in the driveway. I have installed a couple sets of coilovers before (tundra and tacoma) up front, and I've installed rear lift blocks and airbags in the rear. I was able to do those jobs in an afternoon with my tools and skills. I have never removed/installed new UCA's, leaf springs, or rear shocks.

You guys that have done DIY suspension installs, what can you tell me about doing this job in my driveway with jack stands and a floor jack? Any relevant threads to get info from?

 

UCA is a bit of a struggle-bus, just take your time and be patient. It’ll go. I used two end wrenches linked together to get the nuts torqued tight AF, as you cannot get a torque wrench with socket in there.

Rear springs are easy. Shackles are easy.

Bump mounts for the rear suck, but only because of the rivets you need to remove. Seemed like mine were damn near welded in! I would have loved to have had an air hammer for that. Once the rivets are out, the bumps and mounts take about three minutes to mount.

I don’t recall if you have a rear sway bar…. I do, and have the same springs you’ve got coming. If you do have one and do not want to get longer links, just relocate the bar to the rear of your axle instead of beneath is. Move the top link bolts one hole aft on the frame. Easy peasy.

Curious to hear how easy it’ll be to get
Your bypasses dialed in.

BTW, I didn’t need to move the front ADS coil adjusters at all when I put this setup in. The rear sat high for a bit, but the Deavers settled in and I’m damn near leaves at this point. Do make sure that the adjuster lock bolts are accessible once the shocks are in, just in case you do need to adjust!

 

That long bolt is bugger. I bought a Gearwrench 86022 that helps immensely for achieving the proper torque

$63 GEARWRENCH GearBox™ 12 Pt. XL Flex Head Double Box Ratcheting Wrench, 22mm - 86022

https://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-8...t=&hvlocphy=9032159&hvtargid=pla-492452768122

 

When you guys installed the Deaver U748's did you reuse the OE bushings or replace them with something better?

 

If I remember correctly, mine arrived with new poly bushings and sleeves. Grease all of it up with appropriate lube when assembling.

 

And make sure you torque the top shock bolts correctly! You don’t want those gorgeous bypasses rotating and getting smooshed by the springs.

 

Ah, new bushings are probably in the box of hardware that Deaver sent with the springs. I hadn't opened it up yet to confirm, but it would make sense that they come with new bushings.

Yea, I'll definitely pay close attention to how the rear bypasses get mounted. I think I should have ok clearance between the shocks and tires but I have read the threads about rotating bypasses and shocks being ripped out. No fun! I need to start re reading some of the threads about tuning the bypass valves so I have some idea what I'm doing when I start to tinker with them. Part of the rationale behind spending the extra money on the triple bypasses was that I could do my own "tuning" without having to remove shocks from the truck and disassemble/reassemble for new shims and whatnot. I'm excited about being able to adjust them to my liking and driving style. I wonder if the rear bump stops are overkill?

I can't wait for some time in my schedule to start installing this stuff. I'm still waiting on my coil overs, front bumps, and rear bumps to show up but shipping info says I should have it all by Monday. It's crazy how much beefier these 2.5" diameter shocks are compared to the stock stuff. Same with the deaver leaf pack. Just no comparison to the stock parts. I hope I'm not disappointed in the performance.

 

Read up on the bypass tuning! Once you learn how, you’ll be amazed at how well they’ll control the rear.

You simply cannot make a standard shock do what a bypass can. Not only can you adjust the valving (can also do that on regulars), you’ll be able to do it in zones. Nice and buttery in the middle of the shock extension, with stiffer as you compress, then really stiff as you get close to your bump. Same on extension, but just the “bump zone” type to really slow it down before you hit full extension. Ease of adjustment is just a bonus!

Hydro bumps are likely overkill, but you’ll be glad you have them if you hit hard! I’ve only hit mine once, but barely noticed. Mostly just wondered if I did, and then checked the o-rings on the shafts to see if they had moved. Only about 3/4”, but that would have been very noticeable with rubber bumps.

You will absolutely love this setup. I can’t think of much more you can do without going to full LT…

 

What kind of grease for these bushings that deaver sent? I think they’re black polyurethane bushings.

 

Also, these deaver u748’s seem to be side specific. From looking at others installs it seems that right side is passenger side? The double eye goes in the front.

I tried calling Deaver to confirm but they’re closed today.

Can anyone confirm which side is which for these things? Right now I have the spring with U748R on the passenger side with the double eye in the front.
I think I’m on the right track but want to be sure before I torque everything down and move to the other side.

 

Right is passenger, just as you thought. Sil-Glyde is the proper grease. You can get it at Autozone, often a little is included with the bushings

 

Thanks man! Love this forum, people helping me on a Saturday with my questions.

Im thinking I get everything in and tighten it decent but wait to fully torque it all until the truck is back sitting on its own weight, or does it matter? I think I should probably re torque at like 500 miles anyway.

 

Alright, I torqued to the following specs on the passenger side. I can come back if I need to but I want to get working in the drivers side before it gets too late.

• rear shackle hardware torqued to 90 ft/lbs (per Matt at MCM)
• Front leaf spring bolt torqued to 90 ft/lbs
• Bottom rear shock bolt torqued to 90 ft/lbs
• Top rear shock bolt tightened till it stopped then backed off 1/4 turn (per Matt at MCM). Not sure how I’d get a proper torque wrench on this nut since it’s so close to the bed but I’m open to ideas on this one.
• U bolt nuts for leaf spring to axle connection torqued to 115 ft/lbs