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Going either backwards or forwards.

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by jnqpublic, Nov 2, 2021.

  1. Nov 2, 2021 at 1:22 PM
    #1
    jnqpublic

    jnqpublic [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 27, 2021
    Member:
    #67320
    Messages:
    30
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    John
    SW WA
    Vehicle:
    04 Tundra, access cab, SR5, 4.7, 4X4, automatic, with TRD.
    Dang, don't know whether I'm going backwards or forwards. No, not the Tundra, me.

    Less than a week ago, (oh how time flies) got an 04, access, SR5, 4.7, 4X, auto, Tundra, with matching canopy. Truck mostly stock without mods, except for rear airbags. (Is this offered by Toyota. Mine was the second in my search for one, that had airbags. Me, no real desire for 'em. Airbag pro and con? But I digress!) Met about 95% of what I wanted or was specifically looking for, which is why when it came to haggling price, I didn't do much, though he did drop the price $500. And talked of a person scheduled looking at it the next day. Though seller was first come, first served. (Me, still $2000 over my "wanted" max truck cost to me, kinda sorta the worth of the canopy. Not counting +$1000 to pay to tax/register.) Tundras hold their value! Part of my backwards/forwards.

    Corrected "no dash lights" and "no 4LO capable". Yeah, owners manual, and forum "helpers" set me straight. Nothing "wrong". Simply "operator error". Not following "exact" (simple) manufacturer's procedure.
    Feeling somewhat sheepish. (Yet not. Though I do hate "getting through" learning curves.)
    So, I'm now onto actual "truck faults/problems" that'll make a difference while putting on however many miles in this "new relationship". (Yeah, with the truck.)

    Bought a new headlight bulb and put it in. Brights, but not low beam. Maybe if the other way around wouldn't have replaced it as soon.

    As per forum "advisers" in my postings within days of purchase, "before doing 'anything' else, check that timing belt!!!!!". Yes, thanks, I sometimes need a boot to the britches to get me to do as I should.
    So, pulled 4 (of however many bolts) to get a look at the timing belt on the driver's side. Didn't break out a mirror to look for bolt head #5. Could see all 4 others. (Either one more bolt or enough stuff still blocking that cover from coming off, but able to "lever" it out away about 1/2" for a look see at my belt. Believe that hint/possibility from @shifty`. That little short length of belt visible nice and shiny, no cracks whatsoever. (Maybe matches the sellers comment, "replaced about 40K ago".)

    Dang, dang, dang. Now that I've got it checked (more backwards forwards) and re-bolted without dropping/losing any bolts "down there", I'm on this forum using "search" for "timing belt inspection. And see @shifty` 's comments expanding on belt status.

    Pondered, while I had my prop holding the cover away, whether one "should" manually with a socket and lever turn that engine around at least once, for a whole belt looks see. Looking at the various option bolt heads, didn't know which, so didn't do any.

    But dang, in my "forum search", came up with other things "common" to eventually address on my Tundra. Going forward, what I'm ready to do is just drive this thing till it don't no more! but in reverse, know this isn't a new rig except to me, and being 17 years old, there "will" be some issues. Thankfully, this one is still in good condition. (Doubt that I'm simply deceived.) Thankfully, dang near every Toyota has reliable longevity! Before purchase of this one, in my research I came across the recall of certain years (01-03?) rusty frames. Well, doing the full (my) body slide inspecting under my truck prior to purchase, did see considerable rust flaking, (from it being Canadian owner, likely first owner, since seller claimed he's second owner). Lots of surface flake-ing, but bulk of frame seems "enough"/"actually" there for me to go ahead and purchase "this" one. Didn't have an ice pick or any further inspection tools with me during my underneath inspection. Would appreciate some feedback on the frame issue, specifics, or former discussions which spell it all out. (Yeah, I'll likely also attempt my own "search" of this issue in the forum.
    Yeah, for now, done with my digression.
     
  2. Nov 2, 2021 at 2:11 PM
    #2
    N84434

    N84434 In the Frozen Tundra

    Joined:
    Jan 22, 2020
    Member:
    #41580
    Messages:
    1,087
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    First Name:
    Jim
    Milwaukee WI.
    Vehicle:
    2001 Limited TRD
    First of all, you are awarded "Most quotations used in a single post". Well done sir..:thumbsup:

    Now, as far as frame issues, yes the first Gen is plagued with rusty frame issues, from certain parts of the country.....
    Washington state doesn't seem like it would be an area of concern, as opposed to Wisconsin, for example. I would do some searching for this topic, as it's probably the most discussed topic in this forum, next to "Will 33s fit on a stock ride height?"
    If it's just some flaky surface rust, clean it and paint with POR-15 or Chassis Saver. Or grease it down with Fluid Film.
     
    Riverdale21 and jnqpublic[OP] like this.
  3. Nov 2, 2021 at 5:15 PM
    #3
    jnqpublic

    jnqpublic [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 27, 2021
    Member:
    #67320
    Messages:
    30
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    John
    SW WA
    Vehicle:
    04 Tundra, access cab, SR5, 4.7, 4X4, automatic, with TRD.
    Thanks, "maybe", for the award.
    Yeah, Canadian locale for this Tundra believed to be BC, north of 2nd owner from WA near the border with BC. (But just guessing!)
    "just some flaky surface rust" The reality seems "just [lots of] some flaky surface rust".
    Thanks for the multiple options to deal with it.
    Yeah, me, must research further, how much or severe the rust, & what its gonna take to right the situation to tolerable.
     
  4. Nov 2, 2021 at 5:35 PM
    #4
    N84434

    N84434 In the Frozen Tundra

    Joined:
    Jan 22, 2020
    Member:
    #41580
    Messages:
    1,087
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Jim
    Milwaukee WI.
    Vehicle:
    2001 Limited TRD
    Take a look at my rebuild thread and see what I dealt with last year. 'Twas a lot of work....

    Hopefully you can get away with a good cleaning and maybe some Fluid Film application.
     
  5. Nov 2, 2021 at 7:11 PM
    #5
    PenderBen

    PenderBen Forum lurker…

    Joined:
    Jun 18, 2019
    Member:
    #32072
    Messages:
    503
    Gulf Islands, BC Canada
    Vehicle:
    2003 Tundra AC 4x4
    It’s possible it got the crappy undercoating from Toyota if they inspected the frame and decided it as okay.
    My ‘03 suffered from this ‘fix’ (thanks for nothing there Toyota) and as a result had a lot of flaky surface rust and undercoating when I got it.
    I checked mine pretty throughly prior to buying and found no scary rust. One of the first things I did was scrape, wire brush and clean my frame as best I could, then applied rust converter spray, followed by spray painting it, then undercoating it (debatable if this was a good idea, but since it was all fresh I thought it was okay at the time, not sure I would bother with that step again), then sprayed it with a fluid film type product.
    Mostly looks good still, that was a couple years ago, I need to reapply fluid film.
    There’s a lot of good advice around here on taking care of the frame, but first step is to get rid of any rust as soon as possible, however you want to go from there is probably personal preference- don’t forget to try and coat inside the boxed portions of the frame too.
     
  6. Nov 2, 2021 at 7:22 PM
    #6
    Dalandshark

    Dalandshark Infected with 5G

    Joined:
    Feb 22, 2020
    Member:
    #43002
    Messages:
    756
    Gender:
    Male
    Northwest
    Vehicle:
    2007 Tundra SR5 5.7 Longbed
    Eibach Level LIft
    Yeah I would rotate that belt. Changed my dads 1st Gen with 225k or so on original belt and it did have some cracks but not necessarily obvious if just looking through that cover. My runner with same engine and 150k unknown if original belt looked pretty good but did have some very fine surface cracks…. What I’m saying is that if you want to do an inspection then get that cover off and rotate the belt a full rotation… but also don’t worry if you’ve got 150k on the original belt (but you should change it).
     

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