New to me 2001 Tundra

Just purchased late last week. 221000 miles on her. Two hour drive home was really nice.
Made appointments for a new windshield and headliner.
Over the weekend I washed and cleaned the exterior and interior. Also picked up a set of 18 inch FJ wheels with the same offset as the starfish stockers.
Monday new windshield and ordered 2.5 Rough Country leveling loaded struts and their rear shocks.
Tuesday ordered four General Grabber AT/X 235/80/18. Level kit cam in. That was fast.
Also installed level kit and changed the big bushing in the steering rack.
Picked up my mounted tires this morning.
Driveshaft support bearing and two inner door handles coming in tomorrow.
Headliner of Friday.

 

Sweet. And welcome. Friends will likely tell you to check lower ball joints, all joints. If timing belt replace date is uncertain, that, water pump, pulleys.

 

The timing belt was done at around 190,000 for the second time. I owe the owner some pics so I will pick his brain a bit more. He recently had the front 4WD actuator replaced. A thousand miles ago he had the brake booster, master cylinder, rotors, front brake lines, calipers, rear drums and shoes replaced. First brake job.

I will probably change out all the ball joints, control arm bushings and steering rack before too long.

Gotta get under the hood and check out some minor leaks next when it cools off a bit.

 

Welcome aboard and nice truck!

Just changed one bushing on the rack? Total Chaos and Energy sell all three as a kit and it's common to swap all three out when doing this job.

I also recommend you check this thread out:https://www.tundras.com/threads/diy-steering-shaft-seal.48664/

It's common for this seal to wear out and cause a ton of cab noise, especially if you have the dreaded exhaust tick. There was a noticeable difference in cab noise when I swapped mine out.

 

The one I changed was totally gone. The other two were ok for now. The rack is original and has some seepage around the shaft where it connects to the steering shaft. I also have no clue how the inner tie rods look and the boots are pretty hard so it will get changed. I read about the shaft seal but haven't looked at it. I don't have the tick.

 

That's fairly normal. The tie rod bellows are harder than a shock boot/ protector.

 

Nice gains already! The lift/level almost makes the wheels look dwarfed. Anyway, congrats, looks good, and I think the big stuff is covered above except maybe adjusting drive angles.

Curious, why the windshield replace? Old one have fine lines from wiper traffic, or was it cracked? Mine's got the fine lines. I'm really mulling over whether to attempt cerium oxide polishing or just replace.

 

Welcome from LA (Lower Alabama)! And congrats on a your truck. Sounds like you'll get another few hundred thousand out of it!

 

The windshield had major cracks. No way was I going to get an inspection sticker in Louisiana with that one. $240 installed. No tint option so I am going to need to look at tint come next summer. I feel like I'm in a hothouse.

 

Official welcome and congrats on a nice Rig... Digging the new lift and wheels combo. Well done

 

Welcome!

 

Welcome aboard! Nice looking truck and nice start on the mods. I'm calling bullshit on an 01 making it 190k miles on the factory brakes. No one could live with that shudder for that long. Unless this was a highway only cruiser and coasted to a stop every time. Sounds like the maintenance was kept up well, should be a solid rig if no rust. Congrats!

 

Got the hanger bearing installed yesterday and greased the ujoints. Door handles came in by they are tan. Someone at Amazon is colorblind I guess. Also got some new wheel caps.

Scored a jack assembly, radio with CD, four pin trailer pigtail, sunvisors, driver seatbelt and owners manual this morning for $120.
The guy was parting a 2000 Limited I believe and had a nice set of the larger stock fender flares. Anyone know if these would work on my 2001?

I don't know how long the lift and shocks will last but I am really impressed with the ride. Firm and no body lean in turns but drives and rides nice. It is perfectly level so thinking about a one inch shackle maybe.

 

Door handles are easily painted with some satin color match (or close) paint. Those fender flares will work.

 

As long as the cabs match? I swear someone on here was bitching about how the Double Cab flares wouldn't fit on the Access Cab or Regular Cab trucks.

Unfortunately, even if they fit, there not a no-drill/no-punch option out there I've seen. If you can find a square punch, that would be ideal, I think.

 

I was assuming you were referencing the 2000 limited as the same kind of truck as your 2001 model. There's only the RC and the AC available for that year and they should use the same flares. No DC version available that year. 3M body tape can be used in lieu of making new holes in the fender sides. They screw in from the inside edge of the fender wells.

 

Awesome, thanks for this. Learned something new today!

 

Not sure what's wrong with your factory seatbelt but before you install the new one pressure wash it and get some PB blaster brand silicone lubricant for it. Makes it retract like brand new.
https://www.tundras.com/threads/wha...-gen-tundra-today.2558/page-1113#post-2457926
Post #33374 if it doesn't take you there automatically.

 

I have what I will call the skinny fender molding with the chrome strip. IF the holes are the same I might swap them. If not I'll live with mine. They will have to be painted which I'm ok with but I'm not drilling holes.

The seat belts in my truck need help to retract so I will try the pressure wash. Thanks for all the info guys.

 

Both of my bumpers have small dents. Did a bunch of searching and there isn't much out there for this model year. I don't want a winch and don't want a heavy steel bumper soooo I am going to modify my front bumper, sand the hell out of the chrome and paint it satin black.

For the rear I just ordered a complete new replacement on Ebay in black. All the plastic, lights, new brackets and hardware for $238 shipped. I will probably sand and paint it myself.

Back to the front. I have been looking at the front of this truck for awhile and did some searching here and found the thread where the top and bottom black trim is
removed, the top lip of the steel bumper is cut off and the whole bumper raised. I am keeping the skid plate and will have to fab a filler plate. This might be my excuse to buy some dimple dies. I like the look. I would have ordered a new steel bumper to start but nothing is available local and shipping kills buying it on line. Lotta labor but this should be fun.

Also ordered a black grill for less than $60.