Crackhead resurrection

Brake clips are easy. I believe that @FirstGenVol has a part number for it if it's what I think it is...

 

It's the one right where the firewall curves down and they bend and go under the truck. I actually just scheduled an alignment at the dealer for tomorrow and brought up both those things and they should take care of them no charge.

 

Oh. Not what I had pictured in my brain. Get a part number from them if you can. That will be good info in the future to have, and possibly express order. Lol

 

Truck is staged with parts


Added small amount of documentation to the engine bay.

 

Yeah good idea. I'm going to try and have them align it to "DJ'S alignment specs" and see if that really tightens things up. Not sure how much you've read about it but it may be worth asking them to do when they align your truck after the frame swap. My truck has been pulling to the right as long as I've had it with both frames and I'm hoping maybe this will sort it out.

 

I looked into it once for the V6, but can't recall how close that high end shop I used got it.

Let me know how it works for you. Shame that I don't have inner, and outer tie rods to go with it too. Or rack boots. Didn't want to pay the labor on something that was so easy to replace on the V6. V8 should be similar...

 

Unsure if I'm keeping the wheels on this truck, or if I'll sell them later. Either way, I've been browsing for center caps. Think I found a winner.

https://www.lethalperformance.com/m...ssic-iii-bo-closed-cap-6x135-90000001679.html

See if I can spoof some mickey Thompsons. See below. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mtw-2358412

 

Went out, and did a quick look just a little better than before. Guess I won't be spoofing mickey Thompsons.

 

What's yer goal wheelz-wise? You're 50/50 on the MT's b/c style or some other reason? You want to get as close to stock as possible or you don't care at all about that and just want to maximize value of existing parts?

I'm trying hard to come up with some sort of plan for shoes myself, gots me all twisted trying to figure out what I'm doing.

 

You wanna swap for 17’s?

 

I'm not sure I'm getting rid of them. Maximizing value of existing right now while I'm on the fence.

Goal? I'm not sure. Open ended

I just bought @Cummins3500's old 17" 4Runner rims so that's an option!

 

I can only find 2 centercaps. Really thought there were 3. Factory finish has failed, but no oxidation.

 

I kinda wish I’d have went 17s on the tundra. Tire and wheel options are better.

that’s a toss up those mickeys are a classic but those trd’s look good on tundras, that’s a tough one. I think it’s @912 was running some custom bronzes ones that were sharp.

 

I think I saw those. I like the styling of the mickeys, and might be able to find them in a 17. Just unsure how I want to go about it currently.

A guy at work has a tacoma who wants to go back to stock 16" rim size. Might be able to sell one set of my rims to him to recuperate some monies.

 

Can’t wrong with either. What wheels are on the crack head right now?

 

You could be really stylish and probably offend some prudes if you installed suction cup dildos as a center cap. Bet that'd keep the deer running away from you instead of in front of you, too. Just to punctuate it properly I'm sure you could find some dong-shaped schrader caps too.

 

Honestly, I prefer these without caps. I'm pretty sure mine are actual spoof mickey's lol.

 

Just got off the phone with a tech from swope. He seemed confused why I had so many parts. Asked what the plan was for the truck, and I explained that it was a full rebuild. Got to talking shop. Seemed like a really nice guy. Knowledgeable.

Said that they didn't reccomend doing the rack bushings as they usually crack steering racks doing that. I said "Okay, I'll do it when I get it back." I explained that I burned one of mine out with a map gas torch on the V6. He seemed to be surprised at my willingness to share ideas. (Maybe he didn't think about it.) Decided not to have them do it as I know I can do that without breaking my steering rack.

He asked about the aftermarket brake lines and why. I explained that I knew there were brake lines included, but I wasn't sure whether they were hard metal lines or the rubber ones. Agreed to put those on.

He told me a little bit of the process for the carrier bearing. Said that splitting the driveshaft to replace would mean also replacing a U-joint. Smelled like bull shit, but agreed anyway.

 

Chrimmmas

 

Three diagnostics. $90 a pop. Total $270

4WD: Front ADD. $850 for the part, and labor to replace. Gave them the green light.

Fuel system: Oxygen sensors. @Desert Dog is the winner! Ding Ding Ding! To replace the entire exhaust: $8,000. Decided to pass.

Will diagnose airbag lights. Waiting on verdict.

Other items!​

Body Mount bolts that I didn't provide that they bought: $185.

Carrier bearing: $189 with no u-joint. All u-joints passed the sniff test.

To reboot, and regrease each CV axle would be $400 a side. Decided to pass.

Total out the door is right around $1,800 currently.

 

That ADD actuator seems awfully high although I haven't looked into it. (Unless you're saying it's the differential ADD components themselves). I feel like that part isn't super difficult to replace. Also hoping they laid eyes on the wiring mess going on with the 4wd wiring and did a good diag.

 

Another call from swope. Had them diagnose the airbag light too. The airbag ECU is bad, or whatever. A part through them is $700. Labor to install is $200 bucks.

Asked for the part number so I could shop around.

 

WTF is Swope? You take the KY slang so far I'm lost sometimes.

 

Do you need another junkyard run? Found another local one that has a 2001 sequoia and a 2006 double cab!

 

I think it's the dealership doing the frame swap

 

Local Toyota dealer in Elizabethtown.

 

No, they said they wouldn't install a used one. I pulled up links for the part number provided. It said it was only for 2000 model trucks. I didn't look to see if access cabs were compatible or only regular cab. Based on availability of the part, I bit the bullet and am having them do that too.

I asked if my airbags would work without it, and they said no. Have, and not need versus need and not have....

 

Part number: 89170-0C011

Total so far is $2,800. Still happy.

 

You have a plan for the exhaust?