Removing Front Axle Actuator

Anyone remove the ADD without using a shop lift? What tools did you use to get at the top two bolts? How did you snake the ADD out of there?

Thanks,

Roy

 

this may be helpful
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ayrrdRFcOdc
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GyA_U0Oz7Vk

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TmuEVv1neVQ

 

If I recall, I used a combination of wrenches and swivel sockets. Getting the actuator out didn't seem to be an issue, but I swapped it out over a year ago, so...

The videos linked above should answer your questions.

 

Got the vids. Thanks.

Any recollection of the total length of extensions you used to get the top bolts?

The truck was on jack stands? Both front and back, or just front?

 

Honestly, I don't remember what I used. Probably a 12 inch extension, at least, maybe my 18" too. Yeah, the truck was on fairly tall stands. It made it a lot easier to crawl under there while I was rebuilding the suspension and repairing the frame.

**EDIT** Looking at my thread on the rebuild, I do remember having the steering rack out, because I was installing a new rack. Pretty sure I accomplished the A.A.D. swap with the rack off the truck.

My apologies.

 

Cool. Thanks for the intel.

Humm...rack out...right.

I will have another crack at removing the ADD next week. I will report back.

I will admit, my bad attitude about having an ADD at all is probably messing with my wrenching skills. I intended to do this job over the summer. But, here I am.

Roy

 

Pull the rack first.

 

Anyone get the ADD without first pulling the rack?

My ADD project has been delayed...I had a steel brake line rust away to nothing.

 

It is possible to remove the ADD without even jacking up the truck. And, without removing the steering rack. What worked for me:


Suck out about 8 fl oz of gear oil from front differential.

Working from the front: remove electrical connector, vent tube, bottom 2 bolts (12 mm closed-end wrench).


The rest is working from aft of the passenger tire.


Use 3/8"-drive 12 mm socket and 13-15" of extensions to remove 2 top bolts. No U-joint required. The bolts have factory loctite on them, and might need a 1/2"-drive ratchet and adapter used with the 3/8"-drive socket and extensions to break them free.


Getting the wiring upclipped from the little sheet-metal arm on the ADD was difficult.


10 mm closed end wrench to remove bracket holding a pair of transmission lines...this allows more wiggle room for the lines as one moves the ADD free of the truck..


Snake ADD out by moving it aft and toward passenger side.


I found the job to be every kind of awkward, uncomfortable, and unpleasant. YRMV.

 

@shifty` someone came back with a solution.

Good job OP, and thanks for giving us a work around.