General Supercharger Thread

I sent an email to inquire about if they do but I’m still waiting on a response. Most people seem to say that he doesn’t tune supercharged trucks remote despite what his website says so I don’t know what to believe.

 

shit fire!

Harrop just confirmed the tuning for 19-21 ur engine.

hold my wallet!

 

So is it your understanding that D3 has their own tuning software and they don’t use HP tuners, VF tuner, or something else like that?

 

Chris Mentrup, Harrop ops mgr said - "I can confirm D3 has begun defining tuning access to 19-21 3ur. Feel free to reach out to them regarding tuning."

whatever software they are using, I have no idea. I'm going by there this week.

this is their solution
https://d3performance.net/index.php/product/tundra-2018-performance-tuner/

1. I don't want to be the guinea pig.
2. I trust HPTuners, so.....
3. I'm not in a giant rush - as this is my daily driver.


I think this news has something to do with the recent TSB on the 20-21's. we'll see.

I really like the way Stage 1 behaves. If I could simply get more of the same, I'll do it. more is better.

 

My tuner should be here next week, they mentioned they will have a tune for me with my current mods, will report back and do a vbox comparison, this seals the deal that TRX is not going to be on the list.

 

I wonder what they charge to do a retune for you if you install additional mods…such as a supercharger. I really like the looks of their plug in tool there with the touch screen. It looks like it makes it super easy to flash the tune and also monitor lots of parameters aside from that. I flashed my old truck using orangevirus software and it was ok, but not that easy for someone who isn’t computer savvy.

 

Good question, I'll ask and find out.

 

Just wanted to mention that I did hear back from DAP and a remote SC tune is an option for up to 2018. (bigger injectors are required). Also worth noting is he said that the stock Intake with an AFE drop in filter is great for stage 2, and also stated that doing the SABM to said stock air box is better than any of the aftermarket intakes at a fraction of the price. This flies in the face of Stangman’s issue of not having enough air on the stock intake, DAP would know so that tuner may be coming to the wrong conclusion just from Inexperience. I’ll probably be going the DAP route in the near future, although expensive. That said I’m interested in hearing more about this D3 tuning option as well.

 

Following. Not many Tundra reviews on D3 (most seem to be Bullydog which I have had but it wasn’t anything special or DAP).

 

Let's ruminate on something.....

Let's say I get a "correct & safe" tune to 500whp. ~600hp @ crank.

I promise I won't do long heat inducing pulls longer than say...10 seconds.

What parts are MOST apt to fail?

my guess is ring gap will be the main culprit. assuming you stay on the pedal long enough to produce that much heat in the cylinder.

sidebar open
but look at this mess..https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fr1LUnFh8wA&ab_channel=IDoCars

that block over heated and no ring issues. albeit NA.
sidebar closed

However....If it's tuned to mid 11's on A/F ratio under heavy load , is that a genuine concern?



oiling does not appear to be an issue if you keep the oil nicely changed & filled.

anyway - orig question stands......what part will probably fail first?

 

The engine teardown was a great find. Too bad he couldn't manually turn it over, that would have been interesting to see.

 

Just speculating here, but your next culprit without lowering the compression ratio (10.2) and upping the boost could be the detonation resistance even on 93 octane, e.g. ringlands and pistons will likely suffer. Option 1 - keep the stock internals and switch to E85, option 2 - forged bottom with lowered compression.

 

I have a tough decision to make now. I can get a DAP remote tune for 1100 bucks, or I can use a local tuner (still an hour drive) with Toyota experience, but not tundra experience. For the local tune I know I’d have to buy 4 HPtuner credits which I think is $200, plus the dyno tuning at $220/hr. Given the nuances of tuning these engines I just don’t know what to do. On one hand it’s nice having DAP who is an experienced tundra tuner handle it, and on the other I’d love to have the before and after dyno numbers and someone local that can address any issues that arise immediately. I’m guessing the price will come out to be similar, but I will probably miss some income if I want to be present for the dyno tune. If anyone has thoughts I’d love to hear opinions.

 

I would go with the local guy. No remote tune will ever be as good as a dyno tune, plus if there's issues then dude is nearby to fix it and help problem solve. The other benefit is if local dude is doing it with HPT then you can adjust the tune yourself down the line (or even start with doing it yourself). Though there is merit with DAP since he knows Tundras, but that seems like a one and done type of thing and if I've learned anything that's never the case with tuning

 

Thanks for the input, I do agree with all of your points! With the remote tune, I asked about the process and essentially I’d be sent a safe base tune to do some data logging. I would then send the logs back to him and he would make revisions to the tune and so on until it is dialed in. It would likely take multiple revisions and logs to get the tune spot on. At the end of the day though I would still find myself wondering what numbers I’m laying down. I do have a dyno shop 15 minutes away that I’m not sure I trust to do the tune, but they would charge me a relatively small fee for some dyno runs to see where I’m at. Luckily I don’t have to decide right away.

 

thank you

thank you. that's the kinda food I need for thought.

 

Or even something like this:
https://www.aemelectronics.com/products/water-methanol-injection-systems/water-methanol-injection-kit-for-forced-induction-gasoline-engines
Just want to cover all possible scenarios and keep the budget reasonable.

 

I recall there's a member here on harrops and vftuner , he had various fuel system upgrade and was hitting high 500whp with stock bottom end, Colorado blue or something was the username.

Shouldn't our focus be the et vs ultimate dyno number? I realistically just want same et as a trx on my 35s and the ability to run 91 octane, which I hope is feasible considered I've seen on youtube that a Maggie equipped DC on 35s ran 13.3.

Ekanoo also ran 12.8 on harrops, headers and hp tuner tune as per description.

https://youtu.be/4PMXaXwj860

 

"Tanginamo!" Hahaha!

 

Pietz did the install? Do you mind me asking what made you choose them over prospeed and what the total cost was? I'm in Williamson County

 

Silver 17 You may be right about the tuner! I’m not going to bash them because I feel it’s bad for the truck community. I had to get more fine tuning done to my truck by another tuner. First tune was cutting out at times and just felt like it was holding back with extra fuel consumption. Second tune feels much better and was able to up my rpm shift points. He also said I was at my limit with the stock maf and if I went with a smaller pulley it would be unmetered. Some of my problem is VFtuner doesn’t have enough fine tuning adjustments for my cal ID. Maybe DAP has a secret sauce. If you learn something on this let me know. I think I’m done until after the holidays. Check out Slow n Stock. He is a good dude and helped my truck run much better!!!

 

Harrop recommended them. and he is quite good with HPtuners. and Alex does all the dyno work. he is a smaller, busy shop; however, he slipped me into the schedule over a weekend.

Prospeed is awesome, i just did not know about them at the time.

 

Good god!:
https://youtu.be/Um9_xNIPA7M

From another video on the channel:
Motec m150 full standalone 4l80e full manual Turbo kit with custom 92mm turbo s492 Upgrade camshaft with our spec Full Head work Pistons and rods upgrade

 

I like the cammy note!

I reckon I need a full head work pistons and rod upgrade.

what you figger the cost? $12k?

 

He says the full details are here: https://www.instagram.com/tundra_swat/?hl=en

I don't have an insta so I can't look.

 

me neither.


I didn't get a chance to go by D3 performance.

I'll try this week. We have a big hooten-nanny at work this week, so I'll do my best.

 

More info in this thread:
https://www.tundras.com/threads/cammed-and-turbski-5-7-tundra.70922/

Looks like some parts are available here:
https://www.monkeywrenchracing.com/...utes=1&tags=1&sku=1&orderby=date-DESC&ixwps=1

 

So what are strategies to lower compression? I've seen other engines supported by head gasket spacers and/or lower comp piston heads. Are there any other options?
Thank you

Edit: I see shorter rods as another option.

 

I mostly thought of the specifically designed pistons with a deeper ‘dish’:
https://dsportmag.com/the-tech/boost-vs-compression-benefits/