What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I started to also using 2.5 inch bi-led projectors but got busy working on other things. There is a small hump on the lower side near the bulb retainer that was throwing off my projector. The H1 is probably a little smaller on the backside though so it might make things easier.

 

Got my cowl clips. Replaced all 8 and cleaned up under the cowl. Now to wait for the next rain to see if that was the issue. I didn't apply any RTV, just replaced all the clips. Most of the gaskets were completely shot. So we will see.

 

I have zero doubt it's what your issue was. But you can always simulate a shower with a waterhose if you don't want to wait. You'll want to spray the entire windshield and all over the cowl. I think it's water running off the window that really causes the brunt of the issue.

Should be good for another 10+ years, possibly twice that if kept out of the elements.

 

I'd love to have that '68 Charger on the lift. Had a '70 R/T with a 440 Magnum and 4-speed Hurst "slapstick" that was one of only 17 built that year with the specs it had. I was much younger and sold it. Only car I ever regretted selling, even to this day.

 

Where were you trying to install the bi-led projectors?

 

Finally replaced the front Tokico shocks with Bilstein 4600s. They were long overdue.

Now I can soak up those bone jarring potholes that I used to tense my whole body before hitting and bottoming out in the past. Also no more boat lean driving through the corners.

Rear shocks are due as well. Those get installed next week. Should be relatively easy with my 9" Diablo carbide cutting blade to get the old ones out.

 

If you can get them. Do you have them already? Took some finagling to come up with all 4 4600's for my Taco - not a lot sitting on shelves.

 

Yes, seems like I got the last ones at Autoanything when I ordered them weeks ago. The front shocks came in water soaked boxes and one of the rears was missing the chrome plating at the end of it where the screw threads are located. Decided to keep them and install instead of sending back the defective rear one due to the shortage crisis.

 

Inside factory style aftermarket DC fog lights. I had purchased a set after my pops bought the truck cuz it didn't come with them when we bought it, only had black plastic covers in the bumper holes. Not the best quality and I was never a fan of the light output even with decent LED bulbs in them. I had a spare set of Chinesium bi-led projectors so I baked open one of the fog lights, breaking part of the rim that the lens sits into in the process. That hump on the bottom that I mentioned is there because of the lower mounting bolt. Mini H1 projectors are smaller as they dont have a cooling fan taking up extra room like bi-led projectors. I even have some 1.8 inch tiny mini H1 projectors that I planned to retrofit into the fog light assemblies of my 18 F150. I got busy doing other things and never got around to finishing either project. I may go back and try to finish them.

 

Working on getting my rear bumper off. Snapped those plastic plates off and remove the existing backup camera retrofit (upgrading when I get my new bumper today). I need to remove the existing hitch and the 4 bolts won't budge. Soaked them in penetrating oil and waiting now. My buddy that is helping me 3D print mounting plates for my Baja Designs squadron fogs sent me a progress pic. Those are going to be awesome.

 

Nice. That would be cool. I didn't even think about factory fogs with projectors. That would be great for someone with the factory fog light housings. I cut that part of my bumper so I couldn't do that anyway.

I just wish I could find more people taking a projector and making a simple housing to mount them anywhere. It would be much nicer to have high/low with a clean cutoff for the price of a quality led pod.

 

I got tired of having to get the tire rod thingie out of the tool kit to lower the spare, just to check the pressure. So I bought a metal 90 and a 10 inch braided extension. Washed the rim and tire, checked the connections for leaks and now, no lowering for checking or adding air.

 

Looping back on this. Got off my ass and spent 6-8 minutes investigating. Sure enough, window track bolt came loose on the jamb side. LAME. Oh well, no more door nose, "the better 3/4" is happy again.

​

Process to fix (and bolt location) is exactly the same as in this video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VQrKwBDnr6c

 

Got the sequoia back fresh from the shop and lookin killer. I’m just gonna post the list again for reference:

* 4 KMC technics (km722) satin black. ~ 17x8.5, 4.75 backspace, 0 offset
*fresh battery
*oem outer tie rod ends
*oem inner tie rod ends
*Rack & Pinion Bellows
*Total Chaos steering rack bushings
*overland custom designs sway bar links
*Front duro bump bump stops
*CVJ Reman 9550 TR Cv axle
*East coast Gear supply needle bearing delete
*stoptech stainless front brake lines
*Toytec diff drop
*Total chaos upper control arms

Now we’re playing the hurry up and wait for coil overs.

 

Oof. Got it all apart. Ran out of light and need a friend and a jack to help me position the Tough Country. Half a can of blaster later and a bigger breaker bar (a good excuse to buy a new tool). Thankfully did not have to torch the bolts. Should be able to bolt everything up in the AM. I have to solder in the new license plate lights that came with the bumper and re-mount my camera.

 

Got a link for that bumper? Looks pretty sweet. I don’t remember seeing it in the 1st gen armor thread though

 

It's the TB0325T from Tough Country. It's actually nearly impossible to find a picture of it on the web and even when I called Tough Country directly they said they didn't make it anymore. But I ordered from this company and they made it for me. Really nice company to work with. ~8 weeks from payment to delivery. I'll add it to the armor thread once I get it bolted up. It's STOUT. A couple of issues to deal with.

1. There isn't an obvious place to run the wire for my backup camera, which is mounted to the license plate currently.
2. You lose the factory receiver. I will have to purchase one of their bolt-on receivers in the future, I think.
3. I am not sure where I am supposed to mount my tow plug. Maybe there is a mounting point on their receiver? I'll have to give them a call. I'm not towing much these days, so not in a rush.

 

These look fantastic.

 

Umm… is there a reason you don’t just flip the wheel?

 

I’ve asked the same thing, it’s supposedly to prevent dings and dirt on your spare face. I’ve always had steelies so it never made a difference to me.

 

Wait, your telling me that the early ACs came with aluminum matching spares?

 

Sure, it's a factory alloy rim that matches the other four and I don't want rocks and road debris beating the "street side" to shit.

 

What he said /\

 

Spent the day on the Sequoia. New rear rotors and pads. Finally got around to hitting the rear diff with a wire wheel and a PHM moly grease job.

 

Shiny!!!

 

Test fitted for measurements.





Gotta find a free day to run over and borrow my old neighbors manual mill.

 

That looks great! Which rear brake pads did you go with and how are they so far?

 

Thanks!
Haven't tested them out yet, still in the garage doing other maintenance. They are oem but there is a couple different options, I went with the more expensive pads. According to @Roman last year, these are the pads that come from the factory. He said the dealer throws on the cheaper oem pads when you go in for a standard brake job.

 

Got it to pass inspection today. Yes! Not an easy feat for a 20 year old truck with a minor exhaust leak and holes in the bottom of the frame rail.

He did nail me for bad wipers. An extra $20 to replace? Not a big deal considering it could have been a lot more expensive and painful.