Questions about 5100s, leveling and 1" lift

First off, sorry if someone else has asked this. I did search on here, and didn't quite find the answer I was looking for.

So I recently ordered 5100s all around, as well as a tool to do coil compression (1000kg Macpherson Strut Coil Spring Compressor Dumper Extractor Yolk Protector

1000kg Macpherson Strut Coil Spring Compressor Dumper Extractor Yolk Protector

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B08KSV1VHP/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_ZPE69K68MTPD5KX17MX9?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1) I'm using the 5100s to level my truck. Just so I'm understanding how this works... I'm assuming the fronts basically get preloaded based on the clip setting, so basically it's like you have 3 different "in-coil" spacer options to choose from (or 2 if you consider the lowest as stock). So while you lift the vehicle, you aren't actually changing the geometry of the front suspension, and more just limiting the up/down travel with the preload. Aka, lower balls, joints etc are all still within stock parameters (with the exception of adding bumpstop spacers).

If this is correct (and please correct me if I'm wrong), adding a 1" spacer lift above the coilover would only theoretically lower the suspension by 1". While you're attaining a total lift of possibly over 3", would this still just be considered a 1" lift when considering if you need a diff drop, upgrading the uca's, etc? Or would you consider this a full 3"+ lift and start to look into the additional mods necessary.

Second, would all I need to do a 1" in the rear is add shackles? (I'm a bit apprehensive about blocks). Seems too easy for that to be all I'd need. Possibly replacing bushings, although the truck is only like 6months or less, so I figured I could reuse them.

Am I on the right track? Or am I thinking of this all wrong, and gonna get myself In doodoo by not doing enough?

Thanks for any help you can give me, as well as pointing out anything I am look at wrong or might be misunderstanding.

**side note. I've watched he'd a few videos on that tool, and I feel it's far safer than those smaller "pair" compressors that seem to get a bad rap. Is there a reason I should NOT use this tool? It seems a smaller, portable version of some of the standup compressors I've seen.

 

A 1” rear block isn’t going to cause you issues…it’s when you get to larger blocks that you run into axle wrap and other issues. Shackles are a good way or adding a leaf are good options depending on how you use your truck, but more costly.

 

So for the most part I should be safe only doing the 1" block. It's definitely cheaper, and still falls within limits for the 5100 rears. I do want to go camping with the truck eventually, which might mean some rough back roads, but I'm definitely not doing any serious 4x4ing or crawling.

 

You’ll be good-that’s what I run in mine and I take my truck all over for plenty of hunting, camping, fishing trip both in the desert and forest. Dry, mud, snow. Included a few pictures with my old wheels where I was running 5100’s. New wheels with TRD Fox Pro. 1” block never an issue.

 

You might just run the 5100’s at top settings front leave the rear as is to see how you like it before adding shims at the front or block/shackles at the rear. This is essentially a level kit out of the box. It will change your stance quite a bit on its own and save you the money. (2.5”+ at front and 0” at rear)

From my experience/research/opinion:

No on a diff drop (I wouldn’t recommend a diff drop on a 3” lift—introduces potential pinion bearing wear and not necessary for 3”. Several share same sentiment on diff drops for these trucks)
https://www.tundras.com/threads/6112-setting-and-tire-wheel-combo-thread.23699/page-18#post-1417504 (Camburg weighs in #526)

Block or shackles for the 1” in rear (if wanted); block is significantly less expensive (2-3x less) and fine for your intended purpose; shackles are nicer but not really necessary. .25” shims if wanting slightly more front lift up front in conjunction with lifting rear.

Control arms are nice, but not really necessary (unless your wheel offset doesn’t allow enough tire clearance at 3” lift)

 

Does anyone know what the spring is rated at while compressed? I'm trying to search right now about that very thing...

*** so far I've read the stock are anywhere from 450 to 550 lbs, with aftermarket upwards of 650 lbs depending. Wouldn't this tool then work if it's rated up to 1000lbs?

 

And this is why I posted on here. Tons of actual information, not just here say or "I saw this on the internet". Thank you 1000%.

I took the tool out night (or more appropriately the claw parts of the tool), and the size of the middle size claw should cover about 60 of the circumference of the coil, so I'm a little less worried about the strain being put more to one side vs the other. It still has the potential to do so, but definitely less than I thought. And of course this is without any possible bend in the tool. It is very heavy, and stupid solid, but its still something I'm going to be aware of when I try it out.

As to strain, I am only doing enough to get the old shocks out and the new shocks in. Taking into account the pressures you stated, I'm going to be going very slow on the compression, and have everything prepped to make the swap as quick as possible. I'm hoping a few minutes at most once the coil pressure has released.

I will also take pictures (and maybe video) so that if it works, it will give more people Information to go on.

And if I at any point feel the tool is going to fail etc, I will be canceling the operation and sending the tool back.

 

Look up the "no spring compressor" method. Super easy to do on our rigs

 

I've got 2 or 3 of those videos saved on YouTube actually. I may "attempt" that first. If it works, and it seems to be fairly simple if you are careful and pay attention (a d at least have some technical experience), then I'll just return my tool for a fill refund. Lol.

Thanks for the suggestion!