Gas tank roll-over valve stuck causes hard fuelling - anyone else?

Hard off-road use seems to increase the odds, on one trip we were at a big sand dune with some whoops leading up to it, and believe 3 had it stick after playing. Mixed results some un-stuck on their own. Not uncommon, trucks get used really hard here, but seen it occur on trucks not used hard. Would be no issue for me to have covered under warranty, but it’s really easy for a dealer to say no due to mods/abuse, the rollover valve is obviously poorly designed on the 38 gallon tank.

Have no idea, but maybe it is designed to stay closed in a rollover?

 

Is it not possible to drop the tank, remove the fuel pump, strainer, and sending unit assembly, then reach in and "fix" the check valve? If not, can one cut off the neck, leaving only a short 2" or so and "fix" the valve, then mend the neck back together with hose and clamps over the newly cut ends? Just curious what has been attempted.

 

+1 on my 16 but weirdly the dealer couldn't replicate.


edit: I can still fill by backing pump out and on slowest filling click but still bothersome. Do the replaced tanks still end up having problems ?

 

Not that I've heard of

 

I don't think that's possible. The valve is about 7" down inside the tank and pretty inaccessible.

 

I am having this exact same issue on my 2014 that I just bought two months ago. Not to mention I didn't buy it at a Toyota dealership so I doubt any warranty claim is in my future for the valve but is worth a phone call since it is such a common problem. Not to mention what a PITA it is to fill the tank. Of course the Honda dealer I bought it from gave it to me with a full tank as "courtesy" for my 200 mile drive home, how convenient! LOL

 

Your '14 should have the 26 gal. tank??? I've never heard of issues with the 26. We need pics of the tank under the truck unless you know what size it is. I have run across a case where someone was swapping a 38 into a truck that originally had a 26. The valve on the tank they'd bought used was stuck and they luckily caught it before install.

 

Sorry for the super late reply I have been busy renovating my new home and trying to get moved in so the Tundra has gotten no love or attention. I have the 23 Gal tank but I'm almost sure this has to be my issue with filling... I can get pics this evening if its helpful. Its starting to drive me crazy to the point I'm considering going back to the dealer (Not Toyota) and making a stink to have them foot the cost of a new tank..

 

Could also be the Evap can.

 

I rolled my truck onto the driver side and had no problems filling up once I was right side up

 

Any advice on how to determine if it is the evap canister? I believe that is also a pricy item isn't it? $700-800?

 

Sorry, I don't know how to be sure which is causing the problem. I haven't heard of many/ evap cannisters failing. But I haven't heard of any issues with the rollover valve on the small tank either. Really, the best way I know of is to drop the tank and visually inspect the roll over valve. Hopefully someone else has a better option.

 

Does anybody have a picture of the roll over valve

 

This is what it looks like when stuck closed.

 

mine looks like this. I tried poking at it and I can hear it move. But I still can not get gas to fill properly.

 

Yep, it's closed. I dropped my tank to pop it open.

 

thanks for confirming, I didn’t drop mine to test it, I disconnected the filler neck and stuck a metal hanger to see if it would move. And it did move freely but I still can’t pump gas, I’m thinking of just jamming it open now.

 

I can't recommend doing that because it'd effectively delete a safety feature on your truck. However, that's precisely what I did to mine.

 

i will eventually replace the gas tank. Thanks for the help

 

What if you used a metal wire feed reel? It has some flex and goes a long way.

 

You'd have to get in past the anti-siphon "bullseye." The end of your "snake" would have to be about 1/8"x1/8"x7+". One trick I recently heard of and saw attempted unsuccessfully is to leave the tank in place, disconnect the fill line at the tank and use a skinny screwdriver to pop the valve open. I think the attempt I witnessed (on @GodlessPro tank in Baja) failed 'cause we needed a better tool for popping open the valve.

 

I might give it another shot with the tank in place before I drop it.

 

Let me know if you need help. @Shelbie67 has a couple of days off and I can text him for you.

 

Will do, thanks.

 

I had the same problem a few months back and removed the tank with no access to valve, Toyota wants you to change the entire tank that will costs about 2.5k to include labor. I did a bypass by taking a 3/32 all thread cutting a 6" piece off. I then installed 2 nuts on top and locked them together so I would have a connection for a ratchet and ran it down that center ring of that screen you see pictured in 831Tun's posted photo. The ring holds it in position and will open that flap valve enough to prevent it from totally closing and becoming stuck. This will allow the valve to work as designed to prevent air from escaping carrying fuel particles into the atmosphere due to column of fuel going down fill pipe with air being displaced discharging thru carbon canister that cleans air removing fuel vapors. You can save a lot of trouble by removing fill line at top of tank and accessing from under truck bed. You do not need to remove tank. This valve is not a roll over protector as fuel will run out thru the fuel carbon canaster if the truck should be turned over, just designed to prevent vapor from escaping when refueling. When refueling you start filling slowly to allow this valve to open then increase to maximum flow of pump, it works.

 

Not a r

Not a roll over valve? That's an eye opening revelation. I like this solution because I do have an intermittent issue with back pressure spilling fuel out the top on fill up. I'm not clear on what exactly keep the threaded rod from becoming dislodged. Does it thread into the anti-siphon ring?

 

Yes, the rod will cut threads in that round hole in screen holding rod in place. You talk about fuel backing out of fill pipe, you need to start filling slowly giving valve time to open then gradually increasing flow rate. I'm talking maybe 10 seconds or so, then you can open to about max of pump.

 

I'll try that but my valve is permanently open/non functional.

 

Do you know if valve is fully opened or partially and is it stuck in position or moves when fueling? Another item you can check is the carbon canister to determine if it is clogged that will cause displaced air to back up thru fill tube causing pump to trip. The problem I was speaking of was the valve being stuck closed.

 

What is “3/32 all thread”? I’ve never heard of that size? Did you use 3mm threaded rod?