What should be my 1st mods

I have a 2004 V8 access cab SR5 Tundra 4X4 that is stock except the exhaust and I wanted to get started customizing it performance wise and wanted it to look cool. So what would you recommend for me any help would be appreciated thanks!

 

4" lift
35" super swampers
Train horn
Open exhaust

Seriously though, welcome to the forum. I'm perplexed how to answer this or how anyone would answer this when you didn't even list whether you have the V8 or V6 model, 4x2 or 4x4, double/access/regular cab or any other critical details. Pictures would probably help also. So would a budget, so people aren't telling you to install a supercharger and stuff. Are you in a state with emissions requirements?

 

Shifty- I was thinking train horns and a supercharger in the future. Thanks for the welcome man!
I added some information that you suggested. Sorry it was a stupid mistake. I will post pictures in the morning I will take more care next time when posting a thread.

 

I would start with the timing belt mod and the lower ball joints mod. Boring, but the best $$$ you'll spend. Make sure you have a solid runner maintenance wise first. Then, headers and exhaust, level kit, newer wheels and or tires give good bang for the buck. Also if the stereo is stock, upgrade to touchscreen with backup camera and bluetooth / carplay. LED interior conversions are popular too. Welcome to the forum and happy modding!

 

I'm just ribbing you. More info is always better, I just like to give newbies hell.

These trucks came fairly well-tuned straight from the factory. You won't find a lot of folks (at least not that I've seen on this forum) who are stroking their motors or doing other crazy stuff to get performance enhancement out of them. The 4.7 in our Gen1 Tundras aren't like GM's GenIII motors where you can go buy from a wide assortment of performance milled/decked/ported heads on the cheap, or swap in new springs and valves to net a decent HP gain.

That said, if you don't need to worry about passing emissions, there's any number of things you could do depending on budget. Like, long tube headers, maybe you'll add 20-30HP or something. Aftermarket exhaust, maybe add another 10-15 HP. Upgrade the injectors, which in reality may or may not net you any tangible horsepower without updating other stuff. But you're going to pay out the nose when you figure dollar-per-HP, frankly.

Let me ask you something - are you more interested in making the truck sound beefier, or just tear up the asphalt and tires? And to ask another question, knowing things can add up $$$ really fast, what's your budget?

 

But adding to this, by all means, please talk to us before you delve into stereo stuff. Please. We get so many newbies here that only signed up because they butchered their system by cutting harnesses or not understanding how Toyota built the audio systems, it's not even funny. An ounce of upfront advice can save you a kilo of frustration later.

Oh, and another question: How many miles are on the truck? And does it have any of the very-common rust perforations on the frame?

 

Shifty-I don’t have a big budget my budget is around $1000 which is not much. But to answer your question I want to tear up the asphalt/dirt. It has 130,000 miles and there is barely any rust there is a spot by the tail light because the guy I bought the truck from got hit there.

 

Perhaps some OME 885's and bilstein 4600's. For a mild lift (2-2.5" iirc) and improved ride. You can do tires later.

A newer radio with Bluetooth for streaming and a backup camera is quite nice. We'll need more details on your truck for better recommendations (I see its an 04 access cab) such as JBL or non-JBL stereo.



Actually where are you located? There was a member here that was giving away their OME setup.

 

5100s.. i dont know if the 4600s would handle lift... at all

 

Driver mod.
Find your limits and work from there.

 

assassin10000-in located in north western PA

 

Welcome!
Did you check the frame, body rust is the least of your worries.

 

Especially in PA, it's firmly planted in the rust belt.

Here's some rough frame examples: https://www.tundras.com/threads/early-1st-gen-2000-2003-tundra-frame-replacement-faq.54331/page-2

Although here's some milder examples from Kentucky, on the peripheral of the rust belt: https://www.tundras.com/threads/crackhead-resurrection.94083/page-2#post-2376726

These trucks had big enough problems with frame rust Toyota has had recalls and frame treatment campaigns. It's the #1 issue, I'd say?

But I'd also be worried about the last time the timing belt was done at the mileage you've got. Just thinking about things that will kill the truck before dumping money into it.

 

When i was in and around pottsville,pa i saw lots of steep mud tracks and dirt oval tracks.

i grew up around dirt ovals in houston and have always wanted a fullsize truck that kicks the inside rear wheel forward on left turns and had enough power to carry the left front. Like modifieds. They may be called skinny cars up there?

i never saw any of those monster trucks sitting in peoples yard run while i was up there, but front diff and engine connecting rods are weak.
And frame is prone to rust, and the timing belts last 90kish, and something about bad bj’s, but i havent experienced those. The trans has a similar valvebody to a jeep aw4, but the everything else is different. If you’re gonna do an engine swap go full tilt. Get rid of the drive by wire nannies, dont bother swapping in another 2uz. Controller, harness, engine/trans/transfer case. These trucks have already lasted forever. Its time to have fun.

Its a prime candidate for a solid axle and an LS6+?tr6060?.

 

Welcome to the group, Two of my first mods were a good stereo, and a dash cam, got have to have tunes while the crazy bastards crash into you!

 

Welcome from LA (Lower Alabama)! Your classic truck looks pretty cool as is, and I haven't even seen pics yet!

 

Official welcome... Pics plez

 

You may get the most bang-for-buck out of new headlight housings. I only say 'new' because if you sand-and-clearcoat, you're committing to re-sanding and re-clearcoating every year after. At least if you buy new, unless you live in Florida and park outdoors facing south into the sun all day long, you should get at least 3-4 years before the new ones haze, although you can prevent hazing on new housings indefinitely with spray-on UV clearcoat products like Meguiar's Keep Clear spray.

Other than that, most improved sounds and performance would probably come from something on the exhaust side made by Dirty Deeds, but you'll blow your whole budget on one item for things like this, although this could be a cheaper but not-as-potent option. If you don't want to be confused by their catalog, just click here to see everything for 2000-2006 Tundras.

Ride improvements, many folks people seem to choose the no-brainer option: Bilstein 4600 if no lift planned. Bilstein 5100 to lift up to 2ish inches. I've seen a lot of folks talk up Old Man Emu (OME) also. Note, apparently almost everything shock/suspension related is backordered several months right now. Exceptions exist.

If nobody's told you yet, and your clearcoat isn't peeling, be sure to keep that truck waxed. The dark metallic paints (dark red, dark green) has significant issues with clearcoat peel. It's worse for truck exposed to extreme sun and heat (Florida, Arizona), if you live up north it may not be as bad.

Biggest thing that makes a truck look good is keeping it clean when it's not in the mud. Learn how to do your own maintenance if you're not already. If you're in a rust-prone area, treat your frame unless it's already chunky, then consider seeing if Toyota will replace.

 

^ yeah, but sounds like he already has exhaust.

@ThatSR5Tundra the best thing you could do is spend some time scrolling around in the first gen builds section. You'll get to see lots of mods, hear what the people who did then think (good and bad), and get to see a variety. Sutble mods, in your face mods, you name it. If you see a mod you're interested in, comment and ask questions, or even better DM the owner.

After that, decide what YOU want from your truck and how to get it there. Us trying to advise on what you should do, well, if you remember the Pimp My Ride show, the owner never got quite what they liked. That's what happens when others make decisions for you.

 

Whenever someone says "cherry bomb" I just assume they dropped a glass pack on it to change the sound. I'm open to the strong possibility I'm wrong, but I'd be surprised if it's more. Definitely not the same caliber or result as a cat-back or better engineered system.

 

If he said he had a cherry bomb I missed it. Even so, a popular exhaust around here is essentially a glass pack but with metalic packing. These trucks don't gain much if anything from expensive cat backs in terms of power. Best bet is to keep the pipe and swap the muffler.

 

I need to get a new tip because mine is rusted and the clear is gone only on the hood
So far mods I’ll do are simple cosmetic stuff
Front bumper
Back bumper
Grill
Lift kit
And some bigger tires

 

I agree fully on the lack of noticeable benefit from exhaust stuff, mentioned it earlier. Even with the best designed out there, I'd be shocked to see much appreciable out of it, but with a tune ... dunno.

Picked up the cherry bomb info from bottom of user info:

 

So I’d address clear coat on the hood first, clear coat peeling really makes these trucks show their age.

fair warning, I’m a big fan of bed lining stuff lol. Depending on color scheme of course