@TundraTex 2016 CrewMax Audio Build

Glad it helped!

 

So much good info in this post, yet I still have a few questions. I recently purchased replacement speakers all around, including the sub, in my '16 platinum with JBL. I also purchased the 5 channel amp, all from James at 12volts. I want to ultimately replace the head unit. What is the best route for wiring the amp? Can I just purchase the two connectors and then splice into the amp, and run power from the battery? Is it worth it to do this before replacing the head unit, or should I just wait and do it all at once?

Thanks in advance.

 

Where are you planning to install your new 5 channel amp? If you intend to mount your new amp where the the factory JBL amp is currently located, then I would wait until you remove the factory amp. That way you're only removing the passenger seat once. If your new amp is going somewhere else, then it doesn't really matter when you install it. However I wouldn't connect the power line to the battery until your ready to connect it at the new amp.

 

I created an account here for the sole purpose of thanking you, TundraTex. I may never post again. Just finished phase one of my install. It’s not really like yours, but this thread (which I’ve read and consulted repeatedly throughout my planning, shopping, and install) has been invaluable.

My install:

Infinity 2-way 6x9s in front and 6 1/2s in back.

JL 6 inch MicroSub

Picasso Nano 5 channel ~70x4 at 3ohm and 200x1 at 2 ohm

Left the stock HU and removed factory amp. Running power to doors through factory wiring and hopeful I won’t have any trouble there. Put power to them for 10-15 minute test at midnight tonight with gain all the way down, and all went well. Sounded great but I can’t wait to tune it tomorrow AM.

Used the auto harness house harnesses to access the passenger seat bundles and mounted my new amp there. Used posi-locks to make all my connections.

The only thing left to do tomorrow is run wire to the sub, mount it, and tune.

I felt like I owed a debt to everyone on the thread for making this manageable for me. The only other install I’ve ever done was a kicker hideaway in my old single cab dodge, and let me tell you, it was ugly.

Thanks all, and special thanks to TundraTex, from one DFW guy to another.

 

Thanks for the kind comments @JimmyNocks. Let us know how the system tuning works out. This is the world's BEST Tundra forum in my opinion. The Moderators keep the riff-raff away and everyone contributes something. Can't wait to hear about your future FRAC harness installation!

 

Need Clarification Please !

Autoharnesshouse - J144 / J145 Harness Layout

J144 Plug

Pin 1 - Front Right Output to Speaker (+) - Light Green
Pin 2 - Front Left Output to Speaker (+) - Violet
Pin 3 - Accessory/Switched 12v [Remote In] - Sky Blue
Pin 4 - 12v Constant [Power] - Red
Pin 5 - Front Right Output to Speaker (-) - Blue
Pin 6 - Front Left Output to Speaker (-) - Pink
Pin 7 - Ground - White and Black (NOTE: The factory wiring diagram says that ground is Pin 9, but I confirmed that Pin 7 is actually the ground. It is a white and black wire. )

J145 Plug

Pin 1 - Front Left Signal (+) - Brown
Pin 2 - Front Right Signal (+) - Pink
Pin 3 - Rear Left Signal (+) - Light Green
Pin 4 - Rear Right Output to Speaker (+) - Red
Pin 5 - Rear Left Output to Speaker (+) - White
Pin 6 - Front Left Signal (-) - Beige
Pin 7 - Front Right Signal (-) - Gray
Pin 8 - Rear Left Signal (-) - Black
Pin 9 - Rear Right Signal (+) - Blue
Pin 10 - Rear Right Signal (-) - White
Pin 11 - Rear Right Output to Speaker (-) - Violet
Pin 12 - Rear Left Output to Speaker (-) - Green

Quick question - is it my understanding that the pin chart posted for the J144/J145 harness,
when the pin description states "Signal" that means those are for the signal going into the
line out converter (LC7i) and "SPEAKER" those pins/wires go into the Amp output side?

Signal going into the LOC
RCA's from LOC to AMP
Output to Speakers, wires from pins noted on (J144 and J145)

Is this correct?

Thanks

 

Anyone

 

Yes sir, that's correct.

 

Thank you !

 

TundraTex - what aluminum angle did you use ? Looked at Lowes last night and no such animal..lol

Im thinking of doing the same with the factory bracket, but Im gonna also use HDPE board and mount both my LC7i and my Kenwood amp to that, using
the factory bracket as the anchor points.

Bought an 1/8 thick 24x24 sheet of HDPE to mount everything on. Depending on how strong the 1/8 sheet is, may need something like rubber feet under it
to help hold it up off the air vent.

 

For the LC7 I used some aluminum L-channel that I’m pretty sure I bought at Lowe’s or Home Depot. I fabricated the Amp brackets out of straight aluminum Bar stock. Both of those items show up on the Lowe’s web Site. Maybe your store was just out of stock.

 

I stopped in my local store and spoke to an older gentleman and he said they didn't have anything, which i thought was strange.

Going back later this week, but will check the web and see what isle the aluminum stock is in.

Thanks for the help.

 

In my store it’s in the hardware aisle near the paint aisle.

 

Quick question/observation - regarding turning on/off the AMP.

It appears the amp will be "turned" on when its detects a signal from the LOC, assuming that is coming in from the "remote in" signal wire from the HU
as noted in the wiring instructions above (pin-3), and that signal gets passed over to the amp via the RCA's - is this correct ?

On the LOC is a "remote out" and on my Kenwood X801-5 amp a "P.Con" connection labeled "power control terminal - Controls the unit on/off"

Would it also require/be safe to run, a separate wire from the LOC over to the amp.

Thanks In Advance !

 

Your amp will automatically turn on when it senses a signal from the RCA's. So theoretically you don't need anything going into the p.con terminal on your amp. It wouldn't hurt anything to run that wire from your loc though.

Technically with your amp you don't even need an loc. You could just connect some rca heads to your line out connections and go straight into your amp.

 

All installed today. Man this thing sounds awesome.

 

Noticed my front to rear fade is not correct. Using HU fade, if I fade to partial front, still have a lot of volume at rear. When i go full front, i get dash speakers only.

As I start to fade back down, toward center "amped" volume returns, front and rears.

Left to right fade is correct though.

8/19 - double checked all my wires into the LOC, everything is where it should be.
Just had to run a remote out to the AMP to get it to wake up.

 

Just had a conversation with Josh over at AudioControl.

Explained my fade issue to him and sent him my notes on the signal and speaker connections
to the LOC and AMP. He thinks the LOC is fine and my connections are correct.

The opinion is the factory AMP and HU combined, control the fade and since I removed that amp
I now see the FADE issue.

Since I have sound at all speaker points, he thinks everything is fine.

Anyone here running the factory Entune HU with after market amp and AudiControl LOC, still retaining
proper fade control from the HU? That might have a differing opinion?

Thanks
Tom

 

Got it straightened out with the help of my friend 1lowlife over on tundratalk.

Helps when you pay attention to the amp documentation. Had my fronts and rears combined....DOH !!!

 

what material is this and how thick of material? and if i was to build this would i double these measurements on this pic?

 

Hey Tex...how’s that amp holding up after 3+ years? You still liking it? I’m thinking of going with the Alpine PDR-V75 but I was thinking about RF as well to save a few bucks so I could go with the LCQ-1 over the LC7i.

 

How did you secure the crossovers to the door? Adhesive?

 

No adhesive. I used the provided small metal screws and mounted them directly to the door sub-structure.

 

Is the black wire positive for the Toyota wiring for the speakers?

 

That's a great box and what I'm looking to do as well.
Any chance you remember the outside dimensions?

 

post 18 in this thread….

https://www.tundras.com/threads/tundratex-2016-crewmax-audio-build.7394/#post-121780

 

Clean wiring job.
Just picked up a Helix M4 DSP and plan to do the same once a few items show up from Autoharness and Tech12. Helix will do the processing/front-rear speakers and the old Kenwood XR900 will drive a 10" for fill.

 

Just wanted thanks @TundraTex. I read through this build and installed my Phoenix Gold package from Tech12volts this past weekend. Understanding the install process prior to actually installing helped me prep my build and saved a bunch of time.

My next step is to install an aftermarket head unit. I think the sound is limited due to the HU/lack of sound processing. I also want Apple/Android wireless carplay.

 

Glad to hear the info was useful.

 

Is this the best place to mount a crossover on the rear door? I was wondering if there were any other locations to install a crossover on the rear door