The Stereo Slow-Build Begins

The power wire was a real pain in the butt. I didn't want to accidently slice any of the factory wires while trying to make a hole in the gromet, so i went up through the floor board. it was a tight fit with the 1/0.

 

Just ran it yesterday. Spent about 5hrs working on the truck and right at dark everything fired up just as it should.

I was dreading the power wire. That was one of the smoothest parts of the install. I used two of my wood chisels and ran them through the hole in the grommet going up in size. I sprayed some Maxima SC1 (silicone spray) on it and it slid right through without even the slightest hiccup. Back at it first thing this morning finishing up routing all of the wires then I'll deaden the doors and install the speakers.

 

Glad to hear it went well!!!!!

 

So you replaced the jl audio stealthbox with the dual 10inch 12volt box?

 

Correct!

 

And how were the results? And what did you do with the stealthbox?

 

I like the ported enclosure better, it really wakes those subs up!

I ended up selling the stealthbox locally.

 

Woke up early (aka couldn't sleep) and read this whole thread. Gonna start digesting your RTA tuning thread soon. Thanks for your time to document.

 

I just purchased a 2021 Crewmax Sport and the factory non JBL audio urgently needs help. Looking at options and will likely need some of tech12Volts adapter plugs and possibly gear depending on which way I go for the build.
These threads are extremely helpful so thanks for the work done posting the info.
Does anyone know what the speaker wire output voltage coming from the under seat amp may be as I have the JL TWK 88 from my last build I'd like to incorporate if possible. Anything under 8 volts is acceptable or I'll require a LOC such as LC2I for dropping the voltage.
The tech at JL audio suggests an active VS passive LOC which is supplied in some of the build kits and I'm wondering how well they work and if there is much bass roll off from the factory head unit. In hindsight I should have purchased the FIX 82 or 86 which is more versatile for a typical system.

 

You will be removing that factory amp, so it shouldn't really matter. You'll end up needing something like a loc to take the speaker level inputs and turn them into an rca to go to the twk.

If you are getting serious about your stereo, i would recommend selling the twk88 and putting that towards a head unit. I know its not what you want to hear (i was right there in your shoes back in 2017) but its the truth.

I really wanted to like the fix86, but it hated having a low voltage level on the source from the head unit and would end up with a hiss if the volume on the head unit was under 25%. You could combat it and leave your head unit and 75% volume, and use the knob on the fix, but that's not what i wanted to do.
I did everything to try to work around it and finally i sold the fix86 and bought a kenwood head unit. night and day difference. Its really the better.

 

^This is the right way.

 

Did you ever get your system installed? You had the audiofrog gb's?

 

GB series speakers.

 

Thanks for the feedback.
Surprised to hear the Fix couldn't iron things out and you possibly saved me from wasting more money than I've already wasted on audio gear.
The hiss would drive me insane as well...
My concern with a new head unit would be losing functionality of the factory's head unit menu settings unless they are still available on the Kenwood.
I was told by a local shop that a maestro would be required and doesn't play nice with the 2021 models although based on how they were talking he possibly didn't have a clue and was talking about hacking into the factory wiring which I'd prefer to avoid.

May have to start a 2021 thread to see if anyone has built a system with the non JBL setup.


This Tundra is a different animal to work with than the '17 F150 system I built which was easy as you can manipulate the audio module to output a clean low voltage signal and splice in RCA's to the speaker output leads with a parrot harness(plug and play with a little soldering and wire marking).

Managed to salvage the Kenwood digital 5 channel amp, cables, Hertz speakers, and JL 10TW3 sub. Single sub in a box that would fit behind the driver seat would be plenty for the mix I'm into.
Just looking for accurate sound with a little punch from the sub.

 

The fix86 is a very smart unit, but you have to work with it, not have it work for you. It automatically adjust the signal coming from the head unit to be completely flat and eliminates bass roll off. If you are ok with using the remote knob for your master volume control, it is 100% the best option. If you cant live with that and want to use the factory head unit volume knob and steering wheel controls, its no bueno.

Check with james at tech12volt (tech12volt@gmail.com) and see what he says about the 21 jbl and the kenwood/maestro combo. If there's anyone that will definitively know, its him.
You can get all the different adapters so that you dont have to clip any wire, its just plug and play....well, there was a bit of harness manipulation, but its all on the maestro harness, not the factory harness. With the maestro, you can access all the different oem menu's that i couldn't on the factory head unit (at least on my 2017 non jbl).

Sounds like you've got a good setup of equipment. You should have no problem to get a kickass stereo. If you can find the 1057xr somewhere get that, if not the 1037s will do just fine (thats what i went with). James should have the headunit, maestro, and all the different adapters you'll need for a really good price.

 

I'll have to contact James regarding my build. Sorry if my message didn't make sense as I don't have the JBL system which has me looking at the

$190 ADS-MRR Universal Radio Replacement and Steering Wheel Interface

ADS-MRR or AR depending on whether I go with the factory head unit or replace with a Kenwood.
A local shop tried telling me I'd need a Helix DSP.3 for $900 which sounds like overkill... they just want to sell me a bunch of overpriced gear and "not sure about how well the Maestro will integrate".

The issue with living in Canada...the knowledge base for audio builds like this is much smaller and salesmen peddling equipment they know little to nothing about.
I'll probably contact James for his thoughts, advice, and shipping options.
Purchasing out of the US isn't difficult if we act as our own broker and use a carrier offering freight forwarding.

 

Contact MSC America in Canada. Helix is a superior product.

 

I've heard Helix is excellent gear.
Part of the equation is the price to sound value and what I'm expecting out of the system.
If I go Maestro it may not be needed and almost cover the cost of a head unit

At this point it's sounding like I need to either stay with the factory head unit which I've yet to hear many folks rave about when coupled with an aftermarket amp and speakers or go Kenwood/Alpine.

I've built systems in Ford, Dodge, old Toyota's (like 70's and 80's haha)and a couple of newer Honda's with mid priced gear and they sounded decent for the price (100% better than factory).

To be honest I'm new to the Toyota Tundra non JBL system and Maestro so more than willing to take any suggestions or advice on a build keeping in mind I'd be more than satisfied with a Kenwood or JL digital 5ch amp to drive the system.

 

Gotcha. I would really recommend ditching the factory head unit. Its just the best way to go. The 10" kenwoods look freaking great on our dash and work great! I did some testing with an oscilloscope they the signal doesn't clip until 38 of 40 on the volume, you can have the sucker cranked. I cant image pioneers getting that high before clipping.

I agree with @619Tundra that the helix is an amazing piece of equipment. I'm running the helix pro mk2 and its a really good dsp. For reference, i believe i paid $800 for the Pro. You should really plan out your system to figure out how many channels you will need out of a dsp (3 way active needs 6ch, add 2ch or 4ch for subs, passive rears...thats 2ch more...).
In reality, you only need a dsp if you are going with active components, if you are using the crossovers that came with the component speakers, you are kinda wasting your money on a dsp as you want to feed the crossover a full range of sound (ie a flat curve) and let it do its thing.

Its pretty hard to get good midbass with passive components, if this is something you are looking for, you'll need to go active.

 

You can absolutely make a decent sounding stereo with the factory head unit. I think that my stereo was pretty dang good with the factory head unit, 2 sets of components, a 5ch amp, and a sub or two, but if you are going for a real audiophile quality stereo, the head unit has to go. Its like putting 87 octane gas in a Lamborghini, it will run, just not well.

And you dodged a bullet by not having the JBL if you are going to keep the factory head unit, the canbus system makes things more difficult.

Figure out your expectations and then figure out your budget. I'd plan on around $4500 -$5000 for a full active pretty damn good stereo.

 

Thanks for the feedback. It's extremely valuable coming from someone who's been down this path.
If I'm on the right track you would have used the Maestro AR unit initially as you were running the factory head unit then would have upgraded to the RR unit when going with the

$875 Kenwood DMX1037S 10.1" High Definition Car Stereo Receiver with Capacitive Touch Panel

Kenwood DMX1037S.

In your opinion if a person was to start with the factory unit as your system did would you have gone with another unit rather than the Fix such as the Rockford?
The money on a reference system and good DSP may be wasted in my case and better spent on Elka coilovers...

Using a scope I was able to find where the clipping started and setting the input levels for the amp on my last system.

I'll probably stick with my Hertz coaxial speakers or at the most fronts with passive crossover as I have a set of unused Hertz 6.5 components looking for a home.
A reference system although amazing may be money wasted with ear damage have taken over the years working in the shipyard industry.

 

Nothing is wasted on a good sounding system. The Maestro harnesses are only for connectivity between your truck and the afterarket head unit.

 

If you are retaining the factory head unit, no maestro unit is needed. Its only for retaining factory controls with an aftermarket head unit.

With keeping the factory head unit, you've got a couple option:

Cheap: Get yourself an amp that accepts high level (speaker level) inputs and just connect it. Quite a few amps have that ability, so you could just remove the factory head unit and plug the speaker wires going from the head unit to the factory amp into your new amp and call it a day (after you run power/ground). Some potential issues with this: The factory head unit applies a sound curve that is designed to make the speakers that toyota uses sound decent. You will be still using that sound curve on your new speakers. There's also the problem of bass-roll-off. The higher the volume the less bass is applied. You would be dealing with that. No amplifiers that i know of have a way to combat that, but maybe it exists. $0 extra

Starting to get expensive: Get yourself a Line Out Converter. This will take the speaker level outputs from you head unit and output to RCA's. A fair amount of these like the

$130 Audiocontrol LC7i 6-Channel Line Output Converter with AccuBASS

Audiocontrol LC7i,

$294 Rockford DSR1 8-Channel Interactive Signal Processor w/Integrated iDatalink Maestro Module

Rockford DSR1 and JL Fix86 will allow you to work to eliminate Bass-Roll-Off and start to correct the factory sound curve. The Fix will give you a flat curve and elimintate bass roll off, the dsr1 i believe has some dsp capabilities but i've never used it before. $150-400.

Best Option: Get yourself an aftermarket head unit. Anything from kenwood that has wireless android auto or carplay would work. This will give you the perfect foundation to take your stereo any way you want. Clean signal going to your amp(s), and you could easily throw a dsp in there if you ever wanted to go active. $800+

If you expectations are reasonable or maybe even low, the cheap option is a good starting point. Give it a try, and see what you think. If you like it....sweet, you got a head start on some Elka's. If not, its either a bandaid with a LOC or a new head unit.

 

Great advice regarding options for a build and thanks for the detailed reply.

For whatever reason I was told otherwise wrt the Maestro unit.

I noticed in another thread there is another commercially available Tundra system kit which doesn't use a signal processor and looks more like your Cheap option description.

I'll be re reading this entire thread and several others to develop a better understanding of the Tundra audio system.
Just came across another thread where you and a few others chimed in when asked about the factory amp.
Sounds like it's basically part of the CAN/bus tied to the ECM to orchestrate with other warning systems and another reason I assumed the Maestro was required.

I may contact James for the under seat T-harnesses required for removal of the factory amp and installation of my XR900-5 Kenwood or possibly a new JL digital amp if anything is available or on sale over the holidays.
It appeared Tech 12V offered some cheap passive LOC's for the starter systems or it could have been the add a sub and amp system.

May have to go the JL Fix or LC7i route for now although the Fix sounds like a better option but double the price.

My TWK 88 control knob could be used as both a master volume control for the inner rotary control and sub volume for the outer or programmable for other functions with the TuN software (slight learning curve).

Just received a quote from a local shop for a head unit install and not sure about one of the components and if it required.
This doesn't include the under seat harness used connect an amp to the existing factory input to amp output to speaker harness.

I'll leave out the prices...

iDatalink Maestro HRN-RR-TO3, Radio Replacement Harness for select Toyota
Vehicles

iDatalink

$190 Maestro ADS-MRR Universal Radio Replacement and Steering Wheel Interface

Maestro ADS-MRR, Universal Radio Replacement and Steering Wheel
Interface

Toyota Kit 998252,14-UpTundra D/DIN

Install 120 - Double Din Head Unit w/ Bluetooth & Video Bypass

Install 134 - Maestro RR & PAC Audio Head Unit Interface

Kenwood eXcelon DMX-1057XR, 10.1" HD Display Receiver with Apple Car Play &
Android Auto

Steering Wheel Controls (Axxess/PAC Audio


Your system must sound amazing considering the quality and power of the components.

 

It is really meant to be the master volume. Set your head unit to 75% and never touch it again is how its designed to be used. It is really nice to have S/W control and preset adjustment all in one though.
You said you already have the twk already right? If you've got it in your budget, grab the fix and then at a minimum, you can use the twk to set the time alignment which will make a HUGE difference. Try listening to music and move your head over between the two front seats and you'll see what i mean.

James harness is really only necessary if you dont want to clip your harness at your factory amp. If that doesn't matter to you, then just save your money and clip away

Here are all the harness/adapters you need (this is for a 2017):


I'm not sure what "Steering Wheel Controls (Axxess/PAC Audio" is, the maestro RR does the steering wheel controls (unless there's something different on 2021's).

Get a price quote from james just to see how much it will cost and compare it to your shop.

 

Where did you find a Kenwood head unit? Everyone seems to be sold out or on back order for most of those items.

 

I got mine from James at tech12volt.

Shoot him an email and see if he has any.
tech12volt@gmail.com

 

It's up in Canada, B.C.

 

Sorry for the delayed reply it's been a busy week.
For sure, I'll check with James.
Don't believe the Kenwood unit I was quoted for has built in navigation and it's something I'd go for as well.

To be honest and at this point I've dumped so much on extra's and had the truck for less than a month that a new head unit may just have to wait.... the other half springing a Mexico vacation plan mid December on me last week doesn't help(she's the last minute type...).

Just installed the BBS Pro take off's some guy didn't want I couldn't turn down, running boards, picked up Rigid D2 pods, VLEDS, bed mat, Husky floor liners, haha, when does end?

I'll definitely be wanting a connect harness for under the seat and picking up the JL Fix used in tandem with the TWK as you suggested. The TWK time alignment is cool as well and a person can load several presets then push the center knob which corresponds to a preset with a related LED color. Gimmicky but can be handy for different genre of music.

The JL tech support suggested the FIX 82 as I simply run the left and right front center's in which would sum and correct and provide two channel outputs which could be fed into the TWK which can then programmed to output 5 channels for front, rear, and sub(I won't be concerned with active tweeters).

My question is which speakers do the Tundra use for output when using the phone/android output and I assume there is a fair bit of signal correction required based on the system your initially built. I appreciate your standards are quite high based on the components used last time around

The DSR1 looks like another option for correcting signal and a good question for James.

Any more questions and you'll have to take a paypal donation...lol
This was used on my last system.