Crackhead resurrection

Keep circling back to this....all I got !

 

I thought about those too. Those are M6, not M8 like the extra nut. Spose I can just put it in @TundraGirl2's day bag

 

mans jewels in a ladies bag....

 

At least they're always empty!

 

New coolant drain plan. Run the engine about a minute, maybe two. Long enough to agitate all the sediment that's in it, and suspend it in the water. Shut it down, and pull both engine drain plugs completely out.

Any issue with this?

The reason for this idea is because of my drain style as it is, I'm not removing any sediment that's suspended in the water while I drain it out. That's because I run the engine, and then let it sit overnight while I'm at work. Everything that was in the water settles between running, and draining.

I noticed quite a bit of sediment when I put in the moto-rad T-stat again after I drained all the water. There wasn't much that settled into my gallon jugs. I'd like to drain while it's still floating, and hadn't settled to get the most out with each flush.

Any thoughts?

 

Put some hose on the engine drains and direct them into a catch pan. Then you can open them immediately after shutting off.

Removing the bolt isn't much faster than not iirc.

 

I have hoses on them, but I'm pretty sure that the 90° bend or my hose is clogged. Just want some fast drain.

 

Picture of the sediment from the engine rising up into the coolant funnel.


Drained the block.


Drained the rad.


While that was draining, I bolted the passenger side header back up to the exhaust pipe.


Figured out I had the lower radiator hose on upside down. Pic of the rub. First you must compromise integrity...


Installed Aisin T-stat with jiggle valve up at 12 o'clock position.


https://youtu.be/ev_Z7hv9c5c

Took a pic of the first Drain catch from the drivers side block. Arrows point to stuff stuck to the bottom of the jug. Most of the rest of it came from the block, and is inside the jug.




https://youtu.be/3UQRPVnBzGY

Live data screenshots below this line.





No pending codes, but unsure why the fuel system is still in Open loop. Do I need to drive it? As you'll see at the end of the second video, I'm not quite there yet.

 

I think this resembles most of us when we see truck mods we like. I know that's me when I think about 35s and 17s or long tube headers for the Tundra and a supercharger and custom exhaust for the T100

 

I say put a water hose to the radiator inlet, start truck, open drains turn on water

 

See the latest post above by me. Lol

 

In your final update video, is the rapid tick you hear the injectors? I hear the same on the Sequoia and assume it is.

 

I believe it was the Evap system. See this video.
https://youtu.be/_eM65I2KThk

 

Didn't take a whole lot of pics today, but added radiator cleaner to the coolant loop, and hooked the heater core back up. I was satisfied that the level of cleanliness in the engine was near perfect as each drain was much more translucent than the last. Final drain could have been easily mistaken for tap water. Satisfied with that, so hooked the heater core back up to start working on cleaning it out.

Added seafoam to the crank case, and let it idle for about half an hour.


Also changed the transmission fluid. Made sure to replace the whole 4 quarts, but dipstick is only reading at the top tick of the cool side. Could be because the truck is at an angle with nose downward slightly??? I shifted through all the gears once or twice, and let it sit in each gear for a few seconds each. Does the 4WD transmission take more shift juice? I thought it was 4quarts regardless. ATF temp was hovering around 112-115°F at time of live data read after shifting through gears. Any thoughts, or expertise welcome. Leaning towards just waiting until the truck is on level ground to check it.

Changed the engine oil, with filter. Felt pretty thin, and ran easier than I expected it to. Will be sending samples off to Blackstone after I drive it for a few days, and change the oil again.

 

I would wait until it's level. 115 isn't really operating temp. If you removed 4 quarts and added 4 it's probably fine. It's also possible it was a little underfilled by previous crackhead. Once you are able to take it for a drive, check again.

 

Purge valve. They do that

 

Yea 10-15 minute drive then check in park running should be in “hot” range

 

Doing more drain and fills on the coolant loop after hooking up the heater core(HC)! Arrows point to the jug drained BEFORE hooking the HC back up.




Lots of sediment came out after hooking up the HC. Pleased with results so far. Below is the passengers side of the block. Small amount of debrizzle already from before the HC hook up. Quite a bit came out afterwards!




Filled back up with distilled, and added one jug of 10 minute radiator flush. It's green in color so I expect some extra green when I drain it out.


Here's a gif I made of the transfer in action.


Sorry it's so shaky, but the engine is sounding nice!

 

I learned a thing, and am making some serious head way now!



So, how I got all this out... I capped off my funnel with the cap it came with. That closed off the loop to outside air.


Then I completely removed the drain plug, and allowed it to suck air. Once it was done breathing I covered the drain plug hole with my finger till I got water from the drain hose I have attached. Let it breathe again, and then covered the hole.

Each time I let it breathe, and covered it again I got nice thick shot of chunky, horse shit down the drain hose into the jug. I mean, that picture has a LOT of shittake in it.

 

I've probably used at least 20 gallons of distilled water at this point, and all these running back and forth to the store is getting time consuming.


I'm using an old coffee pot that we have in storage as a strainer. Will be recycling all the old, clean, particle free fluid that I can.

This is true @Sirfive innovation right here.

 

Its a shame antifreeze isnt as sweet as it used to be.

but, i’d used a filter in a funnel, and cut the bottom off a milk jug to make a gravity bo… i mean vacuum filter.

 

This is actually motor medic rad flush mixed with distilled. I figure I can do a gallon every day while I'm at work, or have momma cycle this through for me while I'm at work. Save me some time, and money. Coffee filters are cheap, and so is this coffee pot.

 

Added bonus of actually getting to inspect the aftermath, and the debrizzle.

 

Nevermind.
https://herreroandsons.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/MSDS_C1412.pdf

 

It doesn't, but here's pics of the contents.



I like the GB trick may have to see how much speedier that is.

 

Double filtration! Seen survivor type shows that use coffee filters for a similar activity. Cut a hole in the jug lid, and then screw the lid back over the coffee filter.




Not sure if it's any faster yet, but I got one hell of a race going on right now!

 

My bad, you need a bit of water in a bucket for the bottom.

 

I'm well aware. I've had my party days!

 

So... the coffee pot wins because I can set it, and forget it. I just had a yuggge spill from the GB method. Hard to set that one, and forget it.

 

Did another finger drain on the block.



I was hoping the power flush I did 20 some odd pages ago would have gotten all this gunk out, but here I am. Steeping engine run off...