Gen 1 Hitch / Receiver Lift / Replace - Rear Bumper Build

My search yielded rear fender chops and high clearance rear bumpers on later Gens and receiver flips on a tube cross mount.

Gen 1 has a pretty stout towing set up. But the receiver mounts to rectangular tube steel that is flat on top and a Z bottom. The tubing is at an angle as well.

After looking at it and doing gymnastics in my head, I’m thinking about cutting the tubing out and flipping that. The receiver really seems to want to be on the side it’s on. Anyone do anything like this to a Gen 1?

 

Haven't done it on a tundra. Did it to my old 4Runner, but it was a lot simpler. I'll be interested to see the outcome.

 

I haven't done it nor have I seen it, but I did look at my scrappy bumper today and think "I will need to make my own receiver mount if I make a bumper". It's funny how I haven't thought about it until today and now I see this thread.

I say give it a shot. Or you could take the stock mount off and make a new one.

 

What exactly are you trying to achieve?

 

My question too,why?

 

If ground clearance is the goal, maybe get some new springs, and or tires. Pretty sure your springs have lost some of their arch over time.

 

I see what you're saying. Seems feasible.

@jImmegart posted a stock hitch setup somebody was giving away recently, it was in the Long Beach area I think. Maybe try to grab that to operate on if its still available.

 

For some reason when I saw the title of this thread I pictured someone selling used Gen 1 stereos out of the back of a van. My mistake.

 

Getting the hitch out of the way would give you about 3" gained on departure. It would be hard to get that with just new springs unless the old ones were toast.

 

Yeah, I’m looking to replace my stock bumper with a mid clearance bumper w/o body chop. I’ve looked at a lot of them and I have a pretty good idea where I want to go with that. It will be a fab job. But, it will work better with the receiver higher and likely integrated. I’m pretty confident I can get there. I was just wondering if anyone had cut into and modded theirs.

 

I have to do some more measuring and less eyeballing, but last time I gave it a look, it may be I cut that cross tube and move it higher without flipping it. I’m back to work tomorrow, but I’ll give it more consideration on Sunday.

 

Did I specify stock replacements? Or even replacements only? No, I generalized and said IF, and for good reason, cuz the goal was not stated. As for springs lifting a few inches, yep, many brands of custom made springs and aftermarket lift springs are available for purchase. I was simply giving OP a few more options to consider.

 

Why not just weld a new harbor freight receiver tube to a drilled plate and bolt it on to the same holes in the crossmember, except on the top. Weld a few gussets to the plate and tube of course.

 

I'm not familiar with the gen1 hitch, but anything is possible with a welder.

 

That is super helpful @2mchfun, thank you. Is it possible I’ve been over complicating this? Lol your way I only have to relocate the welded nuts on top of the tubing, that area can use some cleaning up anyway. I think you saved me a shit ton of work.

 

You are so correct. I'm sorry I ever gave you the impression that I was implying you implied they were stock by implying that this thread wasn't about lifting a beautiful first gen so it was as tall as those goofy pug nose third gen trucks. Op must have just typed "I want new leaf springs" in the thread title before his autocorrect got him off on a tangent about some hitch thing or whatever. Thanks for being here to help us lesser beings navigate the world.


Op-just get stilts for your truck. Problem solved. When in doubt you should just lift it to the moon or whatever my man third gen superhero says. Maybe bigger tires, but just on the back will solve the problem? Maybe deflate the front tires? The options are as endless as the 3rd gen "mu gas mileage is worse than my 4 cylinder car" threads.

 

So I went and looked at it again in the dark. The receiver move alone won’t get me there. I don’t gain enough clearance by moving it to the top of the tubing, I need to move the tubing as well. But @2mchfun did get me looking at it differently. I’ll put new rectangular cross tube where I want it, and a new receiver.

 

Don't forget chain loops on your new designed hitch.

 

Fabbing something purpose built would be less effort and yield a custom, desired result. Guess that's what is being proposed here. How often are you dragging the hitch on trails? Bobbing the bed and frame are gonna yield the most dramatic increase in departure angle. Removing the hitch would also be more effective. Using what you got, cut the crossbar off the existing mount, make some new mounts to move the hitch from it's current location and then weld the crossbar to the new mounts. Or buy a new rear bumper with the hitch integrated into it.

 

Or how often do you tow? If you don't tow often maybe drop the whole part and bolt it up when you plan to tow. Unless you're towing off road maybe.

 

I rarely tow, I do use the receiver often for bike rack and or cargo basket. But, I would hate to not be able to tow when I need to, and I also want to maintain a recovery point.

 

^ I think this is where it's going.

 

After more research, the hitch aspect appears to require consideration for liability in the event of a failure. Obviously the goal is no failures ever. But, there are rated kits that have that rating label. I've also noticed the heavier rated hitches have a consistent design aspect. the receiver tube is literally the only place where welds are the securing method alone. The cross tubes are captured in the side plates, side plates are bolted to the frame, etc. I ordered a 15K rated kit from Draw-tite on Amazon. It will be interesting to see if the plates will give me the positioning I would like.

 

I may be wrong, but I'm pretty sure your covered under your auto liability even if you were sort of negligent in your construction of the hitch. Does that mean I suggest you go construct a poor design. No! Just stating that as long as you don't leave a trail or proof of intentional wrongdoing then your insurance would pay out a liability claim. Drunk drivers hitting things or injuring people is an example. They pay out claims everyday for those cases. That said, only do what you think is good for you. I do think a private party could file a civil wrongful death or injury suit beyond an insurance claim, but again I don't practice law in any state. Just roll the dice sometimes, and If I was manufacturing a hitch it would likely be both bolted and welded because I always build HD or not at all.

 

Full agreement. If I can achieve what I would like to do and get a rated sticker, follow standard practices, etc, I will feel very confident. I am going to weld and bolt the side plates to the frame. I'll add pictures from my phone in a minute of what I ordered.

 

Got some parts delivered. Here’s the inspiration/concept. Hitch location will determine a bit.

 

Wanna make 2?!

 

3*

 

I would love to say hell yes. But you ever see college furniture made from 2X4s? The proportions are F'ed. Bad stock and bad lines. So I'm trying to avoid the brick look, but time will tell. The hitch assembly just came and it is gnarly. 1/4" everywhere. I held a bracket up before dark and I think I can get it where I want with mods. Probably in the bumper or half in. This would be a lot easier if I was willing to chop the body today. Have to get a nice look 8" tall at lic plate. Even then, body is that tall, so I think a cardboard mock up is needed. I'll post hardware from my phone. PS, @Casper421, you weld - so if this works....

 

So this crazy setup is rated at 16K #. It’s still a drop setup, but I can eliminate most drop. I’ll likely mount the brackets outside the frame rather than inside for bend clearance, etc. Use factory bolts when possible, add G8 as needed. Everything is 1/4”. This alone is 50 pounds.