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Proper tool to use for holding shock rod in place for removing/installing shock nut?

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by Jack McCarthy, Oct 8, 2021.

  1. Oct 8, 2021 at 6:49 AM
    #1
    Jack McCarthy

    Jack McCarthy [OP] Working remotely from the local pub

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    Plan to do my shocks today.

    Bought a socket to hold the shock rod in place for disassembly of old and assembly of new. It was from napa which doesn't fit since it was made for GMs.

    Pic for those who don't know what I'm talking about. (It's the rear for example but I'm doing the fronts)
    20211008_093143.jpg

    Here's what i got...
    20211008_094619.jpg

    Will any of these work or is there a socket out there that fits?
     
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  2. Oct 8, 2021 at 6:53 AM
    #2
    assassin10000

    assassin10000 New Member

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    I used my knipex pliers wrench. Which is a fancy adjustable wrench/pliers.

    The crescent wrench and/or vice grips will also work.

    There wasn't enough room for a socket iirc.
     
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  3. Oct 8, 2021 at 6:53 AM
    #3
    Tundra2

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    I've never seen a shock top like that before, or never paid enough attention. Guessing the shocks are for the front? Kinda looks like the top stud from real vague memory.

    Rears were an Allen key on mine.

    I see no reason why the adjustable wrench wouldn't work, or buy a cheap wrench set, and use a proper wrench with no adjustment. Personally, I hate the "slop" in cheap adjustable wrenches. I've rounded many a fastener that way...
     
    Jack McCarthy[OP] likes this.
  4. Oct 8, 2021 at 6:56 AM
    #4
    EatSleepTacos

    EatSleepTacos New Member

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    Do yourself a favor and pick up some needle nose vise grips. That shock top is common on tacoma shocks and the vise grips is the best way.

    [​IMG]
     
  5. Oct 8, 2021 at 6:58 AM
    #5
    Jack McCarthy

    Jack McCarthy [OP] Working remotely from the local pub

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    I was thinking that but I only have the small size one of these.
     
  6. Oct 8, 2021 at 7:00 AM
    #6
    EatSleepTacos

    EatSleepTacos New Member

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    Depending on how small it may just work. Maybe not though, depending on how corroded your current shocks are. I also recommend hitting the nuts with some PB blaster if they're rusty at all. That little nub is easy to round off so anything to reduce the load on it helps.
     
  7. Oct 8, 2021 at 7:02 AM
    #7
    Tundra2

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    PB blaster and Heat! Really get that shizznit to suck on down in them threads.
     
  8. Oct 8, 2021 at 7:03 AM
    #8
    Jack McCarthy

    Jack McCarthy [OP] Working remotely from the local pub

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    What if just took an impact wrench to the shock nut without holding the shock rod in place after I compress the spring?
     
    Last edited: Oct 8, 2021
  9. Oct 8, 2021 at 7:04 AM
    #9
    Tundra2

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    Mamba might just spin it right off if on speed 3. Or you'll have a flailing shock unless crunched in a vise
     
  10. Oct 8, 2021 at 7:05 AM
    #10
    Tundra2

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    So you're swapping old springs to the new shock? Could compress, and then just cut the nut off with a Sawzall.
     
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  11. Oct 8, 2021 at 7:05 AM
    #11
    Festerw

    Festerw New Member

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    For removing the old ones just clamp a pair of vise grips on the shock shaft. Chances are if you try to just hold onto it you're just going to snap it off.
     
  12. Oct 8, 2021 at 7:06 AM
    #12
    EatSleepTacos

    EatSleepTacos New Member

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    It'll break it free to some extent but at some point, it'll most likely just spin without holding the shock shaft.
     
  13. Oct 8, 2021 at 7:06 AM
    #13
    Jack McCarthy

    Jack McCarthy [OP] Working remotely from the local pub

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    It doesn't look too bad for disassembly. I'm not sure if I should just take an impact wrench to the shock nut and pray the rod does spin with it?
    20211008_100443.jpg
     
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  14. Oct 8, 2021 at 7:07 AM
    #14
    Jack McCarthy

    Jack McCarthy [OP] Working remotely from the local pub

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    Yeah, that's what I was thinking.
     
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  15. Oct 8, 2021 at 7:08 AM
    #15
    EatSleepTacos

    EatSleepTacos New Member

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    Yeah, that'll definitely fight you a bit. I like the sawzall idea if you're just planning on tossing the shocks in the trash.
     
  16. Oct 8, 2021 at 7:12 AM
    #16
    Tundra2

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    I've seen a lot worse. Hell, I own a lot worse right now....

    Anyways, if the Sawzall doesn't get all of it off that you need. Take you a grinder, and grind the rest of the nut/shaft off. May need ER after your DIY orientation change. Wrong N/S combo. Gutter brain.

    Anyways, yeah. If you're just trashing the old ones, doesn't matter how you take it off. I still like the proper sized wrench for installing the new one. Hard to slip if it's made for it, and there's no teeth to weaken/dig into the keyed shaft.
     
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  17. Oct 8, 2021 at 7:16 AM
    #17
    motoryder

    motoryder ^^ I probably crashed after that pic

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    I've used a ratcheting box wrench and a crescent wrench to get that nut loose in situations like that.
     
  18. Oct 8, 2021 at 7:17 AM
    #18
    Jack McCarthy

    Jack McCarthy [OP] Working remotely from the local pub

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    I may be doing that for the rears, but I'd like to avoid it for the front if possible since I don't want to be playing around with it that much while the coil is compressed.
     
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  19. Oct 8, 2021 at 7:19 AM
    #19
    Tundra2

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    I cut the top studs off of @jpink's rear shocks. Need a 12" Diablo blade. Thick metal. Legit.
     
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  20. Oct 8, 2021 at 7:21 AM
    #20
    Jack McCarthy

    Jack McCarthy [OP] Working remotely from the local pub

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    Napa had this but it doesn't fit tightly...
    20211008_095451.jpg
     
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  21. Oct 8, 2021 at 7:22 AM
    #21
    Jack McCarthy

    Jack McCarthy [OP] Working remotely from the local pub

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    Maybe I should buy one as a backup to avoid having to bum a ride if I can't get it off.
     
  22. Oct 8, 2021 at 7:24 AM
    #22
    BubbaW

    BubbaW Blessed 2 B above Ground

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    For the front, attempt removing nut half turn or so while it is uncompressed. If threads are half way decent, at least you know it should come off when compressed.
     
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  23. Oct 8, 2021 at 7:40 AM
    #23
    alb1k

    alb1k Always Coming From Take Me Down

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  24. Oct 8, 2021 at 7:43 AM
    #24
    alb1k

    alb1k Always Coming From Take Me Down

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    I remember the rears being a pain and I think I did just about everything above. Hack saw in the end if I recall...
     
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  25. Oct 8, 2021 at 7:49 AM
    #25
    Tundra2

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    For the rears, I ground two flat spots on the shaft, and then used vise grips on the shhaft. Easy
     
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  26. Oct 8, 2021 at 8:20 AM
    #26
    Sunnier

    Sunnier Pity the warrior that slays all his foes

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    Your profile pic is very sexy, Randy. :101010:
     
  27. Oct 8, 2021 at 8:45 AM
    #27
    EatSleepTacos

    EatSleepTacos New Member

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    Thanks! That’s my tacoma, Betty white. I’m on this forum because I’ve got a tundra for a tow pig getting delivered on Monday.

    CF31A3D7-5D52-451A-AC52-ED5321A3E52A.jpg
     
  28. Oct 8, 2021 at 8:56 AM
    #28
    Danman34

    Danman34 New Member

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    You need a crow foot wrench to tighten the nut while you hold the shaft with either the vice grip or crescent wrench.

    E3BCB125-AC5B-43B8-9B08-60F256316B2B.jpg
     
  29. Oct 8, 2021 at 9:17 AM
    #29
    Sunnier

    Sunnier Pity the warrior that slays all his foes

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    Thanks for the bigger pin-up pic of Betty. She’s beautiful. Keeping her, I assume.
     
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  30. Oct 8, 2021 at 9:24 AM
    #30
    EatSleepTacos

    EatSleepTacos New Member

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    Definitely, she’s not going anywhere. She’s always been a second vehicle for fun, but now I’m making my primary vehicle a tundra as well as a trailer to tow her around.
     
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