What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

You’ve got a plainer right?!

 

Where you headed in Tn? @lsaami

 

Franklin area for a wedding, then out east for a solo (me plus wife) camping trip in Cherokee national forest.

 

@lsaami Why does your air compressor look so huge? Just a weird camera angle?

 

This is why I'm not a carpenter. Measure once, then twice, then five more times, cut twice as many, then start over. The only thing I've ever had luck building is speaker enclosures, for whatever reason, but the software we used told you exactly what size to cut all the pieces, what angles to use.

Sorry to hear about your luck! Just got back from Greenville SC here, packing tonight and heading TN also tomorrow, just west of Prentice-Cooper.

 

Partially a wierd angle, and partially, it’s just a big compressor. It’s the Viair 150PSI 2gallon air source kit.

$300 VIAIR 150 PSI High-Flow Air Source Kit | Portable On Board Air Compressor with 2 Gallon Tank for Truck, Air Horns, Suspension, Air Locker, Black

https://www.amazon.com/VIAIR-150-PS...ds=viair+air+source+kit&qid=1633607254&sr=8-5


I decided it was too big for this and bought another one off Amazon. Holy crap is Amazon overnight a game changer! Ordered stuff at 9PM last night, it was sitting on my porch when I woke up at 5:30.

 

Apparently I'm the only one in town who has ever heard of axle shims. So much for the shops that call themselves "off road specialists" or "driveline experts". Clearly all they do is bolt on accessories or weld weights onto driveshafts.

If I plugged the right numbers into the calculator @Desert Dog provided, then it would seem that I need 5 degree shims. Guess I'm tracking down the parts online and attempting the install myself. It doesn't seem like a huge job, so how hard can it be? Yeah...we all know how that works out.

 

Need to find an oldschool shop that knows about pinion angle shims lol.

Might be worth doing new U-bolts while you're at it.


I'd pick up a digital angle gauge to get a more accurate reading, if you've been using one of those needle style ones.

 

Got it back from the shop today. Those 1.25" spacers make the stance look MINT in my opinion. Front end is all rebuilt. LBJs, LCAs and tie rods all OEM. Spidertrax 1.25" spacers on all four corners and the OME lift/level. Sitting a little tall right now. Center of hub to bottom of fender is 29.5" in rear and 30" in front. Should settle some and be level or raked about 1/4" in the front ideally. I still need to install my tough country bumper next week, so may end up lifting the back an inch in the near future. Getting closer. More to do. Only was able to drive it 10 mins or so tonight, but drives awesome thus far.

ETA the actual measurements are 22.5” in the rear and 23” in the front center of hub to bottom of fender.

 

Are you sure your hub to fender measurements were around 30"? I was thinking my fully drooped rear was around 31-31.5" from center of hub to bottom of fender. Fully compressed on mine is about 17.5". Ride height on mine should be about 23-24" in the rear.

 

Yea — just re checked not sure where I got that from. Long day. 23” in front, 22.5” in rear.

 

@shifty` I know it’s not perfect, but I tried a little harder, still not 100% done.
@BubbaW do you have a recommended circuit to tap into at the interior lower fuse panel for ignition only power(relay trigger) I was planning on using one of those add a circuit fuse thingys, but open to suggestions.


All airline is ran and tied in, waiting for pressure test

 

Oh yeah that sounds much better. I was just wondering. I was pretty sure I had my droop numbers right and I have about 7" up travel at ride height so if your numbers were right then I had no idea how much travel my rear has haha.

 

If you have more electric planned you could do like I did and buy an amp wiring kit and run the power/ ground to a little fuse box under the cup holders or any wiring I suppose, but amp kits with inline fuses are pretty cheap. I fit a 6 blade under there if I recall. I tied into the radio ignition wire for my relayed stuff I just want hot if they key is on. It was the easiest to find and identify since it all was about the same area.

 

Is that a part you can buy? I have 2 broken ones. Annoying to have the dog sticking his head out the window, or hear the damn thing flapping around.

 

I washed it and removed all the duck tape residue from the paint around the back window.

 

LOL! i'd just be happy with an exhaust system that wasn't all patched together and didn't leak!

 

Yes, unfortunately, many "off-road" shops are nothing more than parts-hangers and pre-made kit installers that can't assist a customer with an actual issue that's outside their box and that's OK too.

Shims are typically sold in degrees of two (2,4,6, etc.). If you can't find 5* and dont have the wherewithall to have them made, I would try 4* shims since the natural tendency of the drive line is to point upward under load. Probably your safest, best bet if you can't find 5* or make them or have them made.

Keep us posted. I wondered how things were going for you since you've been MIA for the most part. Lol.

 

toyotas with LSPV. so anything newer than 2004 or 1st gen tundras its useless

 

easy fix for that, just pull the assembly off like i did! (i really need to get an exhaust together for the truck...)

 

Yup, iirc I bought mine on Amazon.

 

It is indeed….the below is an example from McGeorge Toyota for a 2003 AC in Oak. There are other places to purchase them that are cheaper if you wish.

https://toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota....MIycLbk-i68wIV1cDICh1VGgQBEAQYASABEgIN6_D_BwE

Also a howto thread….

https://www.tundras.com/threads/access-cab-window-latch-repair.26105/

 

For my 04 it would be IGN1(10amp) or IGN2(20amp). In case it matters, what will the relay be triggering ?

 

Relay will trigger mamba air compressor, I believe they’re are 40 amp relays. I’ll take a look when I get to work, I had add a circuits but they might be the bigger style

 

In that case, wouldn’t underhood fuse panels be better with properly sized wire ? Don’t know anything about Mamba’s, so maybe others have suggestions !

 

For high current stuff I've had better luck with contactors/solenoids a continuous duty one like this should last you a long time.
https://www.waytekwire.com/item/80432/Trombetta-684-1221-012-02-12V-Powerseal-DC/

 

So the mamba has its own power supply, fused 10g I believe(from the factory) that will tie in straight to the battery.
I then need keyed ignition source power; that will then be fed to a rocker isolation switch; I’m thinking of mounting it on the seat mount bolt closest to the hump on the driver side.
So it’s just a relay trigger, no big power needed off the keyed ignition source

Maybe a solid state relay?
I’ll run what ARB supplied until it fails, and then do my own MOdifications

 

Gotcha....the 2 fuses I mentioned would still be candidates then and others may have better preference.

 

Yep, I'm pretty sure I bought it from ebay. I looked for a link, but ebay makes it hard to search old invoices going back a few years and I can't find the original invoice. I'm sure if you do a new search you can find them. I'll look some more and if I can find a link I'll post it. cheers.

 

I ended up ordering 6 degree shims since I kept coming up with 5 to 7 degrees on the calculator depending where I placed my angle finder and tape measure.

I'll definitely report back once I get them installed.