Slow crank, no start

So I made a bold choice upon returning from my deployment, and with all of my "R&R" time, that I was going to fix the stupid chain tensioner slap on the drivers side. It had all the tell-tale signs that you read about online, only happens on start up and goes away once the engine is warmed up.

Long story short, took my sweet time, watched a ton of videos, changed out the primary tensioners on both sides, changed out the water pump, and figured I'd change out the spark plugs too. After about a week (I said I was taking my time), everything is finally back together. Filled up my oil, tried filling up my radiator (appears I have a magical leak now), and attempted to crank up the truck...

Well, the engine cranks and does not want to start. Video here : https://youtu.be/jzJAoKAEQxw

So far I've checked the fuel lines at the fuel rails, fuel comes out. I've checked fuses and relays-- I've double checked all my connectors, and hoses. Kinda at a loss. I even threw the battery on the battery charger yesterday just in case it was a low battery (even though the engine is cranking) and tried the battery out of my wife's vehicle. I'm not getting any codes, but not sure I'd get any anyway since I've had the battery off for like a week and can't run the truck. Edit: Oh yeah, it's not the immobilizer either, the light stops flashing when I put the key in.

I can't remember if this crank is normal sounding or not? Sounds like it's struggling...like me. Help?!

 

When you put the sprockets back on the cams, did you fit them by hand and ensure that they were locked in by hand before bolting them on? It's really, really, really easy to think you have them on properly while they are not locked onto the little pin sticking out.

 

Well you mentioned two things witch were plugs and messing with the tensioner.

1.) check and make sure spark plugs have the coil seated on them and that the correct connector's plug in to them
2.) when you did your timing chain tensioner did you make sure that all the gears stayed in time? An verified all timing marks on point with TDC.

it almost sounds like its out of time the way its cranking.

 

Hmmm, I never took any sprockets off...just changed out the primary tensioners without taking off the chain.

 

I think the coils would be seated on the spark plugs, is the coil not seating on the spark plug something that can happen? I didn't check the gap on the spark plugs though, which I have read that with oem spark plugs that you shouldn't have to gap them.

I never took the timing chain off, so I didn't fully check the timing before re-assembling everything. I checked that it lined up on the driver side, then figured I was wasting my time since I never took the chain off.

 

You should find your problem with in those 2 steps I have suggested. It is possible that with the tensioner off and the chain loosened that it could of skipped a tooth.

as for the magical water leak. Is it a actual leak some were? Or just the water level depleting. After you get it running you will need to preform a air bleed on the system. Witch if the water level is just depleting is mostly likely just air escaping the system.

 

Son of gun I don't want to have to disassemble everything again!

How do I go about checking your first suggestion? I can't see how the igniter coil wouldn't be touching the spark plug.

As for checking the timing, I can just do that with the valve covers off, correct?...actually there are a couple of markings at the crankshaft too if I remember correctly. Oh man, my wife is not gonna be too happy

Thank you for your help

Edit: About the radiator...when adding water/detergent to the radiator itself, it started pouring out of the bottom passenger side of the radiator (not the hose, out of the radiator itself).

 

For the coils just unbolt them and push down an slide up an feel if they seated.

but yes when checking the timing you will want to make sure the crank markings are at TDC and lined up with the markings on the chain. And then check the markings on all gears on the cam and chain markings there.

 

Well, I reseated the coils, no change. Here we go with round 2 of taking everything apart I hope it is a timing a issue, and hope that if it IS a timing issue, that there isn't any damage. I can't imagine any damage happening though, since the truck won't even start...is my logic faulty with that?

 

Going by that if its off by just a tooth or two and didn't sound like valve hitting any thing I would say your in the clear. If it is off by a tooth.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oaDWBwmtVEE

Watch from 2:10 to 2:30.

 

Thank you! I'll let you know how it goes...I'm going to try to be quicker then taking a week to do this, haha. I just don't want to deal with sealing the timing cover again, that was a PITA!

I didn't hear anything hitting/slapping...just a dumb engine that won't start!

 

Would this have anything to do with my troubles? I thought all ignition coils were the same...since they all had the same part numbers on them. However, upon closer inspection this time around, I notice some have A1, B2, B3, or B4 on them. I have 1 A1,1 B1, 3 B2's, 2 B3's, and 1 B4...are they supposed to be in any specific order? If so, I didn't pay attention at all when I initially took them off.

 

They certainly need to be in the right location related to the piston that is tdc when the coil fires.

 

The location of the coil packs does not matter, those markings (A1, B2, etc…) are not part numbers, probable the mold number in which they were made. Any one will work for any cylinder.

The ECU controls ignition timing, and the harness leads to the coil packs are short enough you can’t mix those up.

I’d start with a charge and load test of the battery. Make sure all grounds are connected. Verify crankshaft speed / position sensor connection, as well as cam sensors. Use a scan tool with live data to check crank and cam speed while cranking, and check timing.

There is no way that my very next move from now would be to tear it right down again, until there was proof it was out if time.

 

As I was reading this thread, I was hoping to see this reply.

 

I figured, and hoped, that it wouldn't matter where those ignition coils went...and yeah, everything kind of just goes back to place.

When you mention grounds, you mean the ground to the valve covers? That's the only grounds I messed with, and they're still good. Where is the crankshaft speed/position sensor located? I'm assuming it's all attached to the main harness. If so, they were all connected. I don't remember taking off any other connectors.

Any scanner that you recommend? I have this:

Actron CP9175 AutoScanner Diagnostic Code Scanner with Freeze Frame Data for OBDII Vehicles

https://www.amazon.com/Actron-CP9175-AutoScanner-Diagnostic-Vehicles/dp/B000FJS8O6?ie=UTF8

Nothing pops up with that scanner though, since the truck isn't popping any codes.

I'm about to take the timing cover off, just got the crankshaft bolt loose again I've gone too far

 

Did you ever verify that it was actually getting fire? Could be a coincedence that the the ecu has a fault. Not likely but possible. No fire, crank all day, will not ever start.

 

I had assumed the crankshaft position sensor was up front in the timing cover like many engines, turns out it’s at the rear on the 3UR.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/crankshaft-position-sensor.12437/#post-223909

 

Hmm, good question. Just figured since I never had a problem before I shouldn't now? I can always re-flash the ecu.

Thanks!! I'll check it out!

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Trying to get as much done today as possible, lots of appointments today though. Anyway, pulling the spark plugs I noticed the center electrode of damn near every plug has a bit of soot on it...these are brand new spark plugs. And the threads all have a bit of oil on them. I changed all the valve cover gaskets on the first go around with all oem parts. Makes me think something bigger may be in store.

Still need to check timing if anyone is following

 

Soot means something burned. So that means fire occurred.

 

Seems to me that the timing is off and your combustion is simply leaking out the valves that are open when they should be closed.

 

That's what I was thinking, and hoping too. I'm hoping to have a good chunk of time tomorrow to dedicate to just checking the timing. Part of me thinks it'd just be easier to re-do the timing, instead of taking forever to crank the chains around to verify timing...my other fear is that just cranking the chains around, and the timing is off, that I'll never know until wasting a ton of time. We will see what tomorrow brings!

 

Good luck keeping skin on your knuckles, hope you get it figured out.

 

Haha, that's too funny you mentioned that. My wife keeps asking me why I don't wear my gloves...my knuckles are all bloodied up!

Thanks!

 

Just remember after redoing it though to cycle it around a couple times to make sure it it doesn't skip any teeth and still holds true timing Before reassembling it.

 

After cycling a bunch of times, it looks like the timing is off by a couple of teeth on each side. I've ordered new timing chains from toyota, since I'm not sure why/how this could have happened unless the chain is stretched.

Really wanted to go with a melling timing chain kit, however, just didn't have a good feeling about not going with toyota for this. $500 for the chains, big oof.

 

Auto repairs are sooo much fun! One thing always leads to five others, never fails.

 

do the chain tensioner need tighting or adjustment of slack?

Chain should be fine , I would start looking at the things that holds the chain tight and slack adjustments. If its to loose or a guard is in the way it could cause the jumping of teeth.

 

good part is from 17min forward
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3cOvWBaLSjQ