What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

So that screws into the bleeder port, and then has a hookup for the gauge?

 

Pretty much

 

Since we have the same brakes from the factory and my ass end weighs a bit more I'm willing to assume it is more of a regular cab or access cab problem. Then again my drums could be tuned up a bit I'm sure. I just royally hate working on drums.

I had extended the rod a bit to get more rear brakes and when I was taking everything apart I was thinking man it's going to be all out of whack after I lift the back. The long rod is flexible so I just wired it to the bed for now. We'll see if I decide to keep it that way, but my brakes do feel better overall.

 

Are the wheelers thicker? I may try it just to see what happens. Always throw the other set on my wife’s sequoia if I don’t like it.

 

Mine is crudely zip tied to the broken mounting bracket while I figure out an alternative. I might play around with bending the rod and mounting up towards the bed like you did.

 

I bent the rod for my LSPV and my rears engage nicely now that I have all the parking brake hardware installed.

 

Jpink said his pedal feels better and truck brakes nicely since we replaced the rear hardware(springs, star wheels, cylinders). I'm planning to order those parts soon. His rear drum parts were only a year or so old but looked horrible. Apparently Raybestos quality isn't great on those parts. I'm going OEM. My shoes and drums are still in good condition so I'll reuse those. It's $260 for all those parts.

 

Wheelers ones are pretty tall. They almost make contact at ride height. They're also nut beveled to evenly spread the contact like the Durobumps are. If the Durobumps were around in 2018 I would have went with them.

 

My wheelers bumps absolutely touch at ride height. You might be lifted more than me..?

I should probably switch to Durobumps but I'm not convinced it's really going to be noticeable.

 

I'm only about 2" as far as I know. Did you use the little spacer on yours? I didn't.

 

Spoiler alert twins

 

You cant convince me these arent nun chucks.

 

Homemade plumbers chucks

 

Even better. Plumb-chucks! I made a few sets out of blue grade 1" copper long ago. When I was a plumber and the recession hit and all the guys at my shop were bored at the shop. One set went to the general manager, another to the safety manager, a set to my brother and I kept the prototype which had too long of a chain.

Yes, people were injured at the shop playing with them. Those caps on the ends really firm up the copper.

 

Is there a plumbers version of Chinese/Ninja Stars?

 

No.... but there should be....

Maybe a carefully carved escutcheon plate...

 

Probably just throwing poop, I wouldn’t mess with you if that’s what you were throwing at me

 

Some guys I knew were constantly armed with bucket brownies and water balloons (they pee in a latex glove and tie it). Don't cause road rage on a plumber.

 

Yew!

 

Plot twist: Each end of the plumb chuck s actually a pipe bomb to be separated and thrown during road rage events.

 

Hmm... if I had used those fancy sharkbite fittings that could happen.

 

If you work at a place with a laser or punch and a spot welder... Almost everything is a Chinese star. We used to have competitions on lunch hitting a pallet target.

 

I’m glad to see I’m not the only one with that kit setting in the parts pile waiting to be installed. I checked on some ADS shocks and they’re at a minimum 15 weeks out.

I may just leave my bumpstop set up alone. Truck rides pretty good as is

 

Yup, I have had it for a few months. No time to mess with it yet. Somewhere this month I'm going to do some routine maintenance and while I'm at it I will disconnect my rear shocks and measure my full travel. I have a pair of 11" shocks sitting around and I'm curious if thats enough or if I need 12". I might have to install a longer brake line to allow the full droop, I don't recall if my springs go beyond the brake line limit.

From there I may take a day off and visit my friends shop. Use his lift to pull my bed and get this thing on. Honestly lifting the bed will be the hardest part for me.

 

Today I Windex'd the inside of my windshield. It was long overdue. Driving to work in the mornings, I drive into the sunrise. It was so bad, I was almost driving blind. Gotta make this a weekly or biweekly thing.

 

I use rubbing alcohol to clean that. Gotta let it air out after but it works well.

 

Depending on your down travel you might need to look at a longer brake line and your e brake cable might need some love.

I was able to extend the mount on my brake line for a temporary fix on my setup and I had to take off the rear most frame mount for the e brake because it would bind. I just removed it and put a spring on there for now. I might make a drop bracket for it and I'll need to get a longer brake line eventually.

 

Had a spare 90 mins today, decided to get off my ass and clean my engine bay so I can polish out the paint inside. Any of you with white, black or other solid color trucks will understand. Chalk factory in there, but nothing Meguiar's Ultimate Polish and a Chemical Guy's orange hex-logic hand pad (in kit

$25 BUFX_204 Hex-logic Hand Applicator Pad Kit

BUFX_204) doesn't fix in about 30 seconds.

I just used the cheap Gunk foaming engine cleaner, $6 can because it's alloy-safe (green Simple Green eats aluminum finish and should never be used), purple Simple green HD on the underside of the hood, a long-hair hand brush on all of it, then dried with a blower, then hit the plastics and rubbers with 303 because it's water-based and won't cause more dust. That stuff is probably the one thing PHM and will forever agree on.

Anyway, with my potato ass pics, it's hard to tell any difference.

My expectations were low on the aluminum parts, so I wasn't disappointed with the results. I've never found anything alloy-safe that will clean aluminum w/o scrubbing.

 

So, the passenger side spot with the most room, and forgive me because I am on just about day 1 of understanding auto mechanics, the octopus part there is ABS? Or something else?

Then between octopod and the air box is something else, low and bolted in, and finally some reservoir off towards the engine side (tran fluid?)

On the driver side is brake master cylinder and fluid reservoir?

Seems like it could be possible to migrate some parts on the passenger side forward, towards the air box, opening up another spot for {2nd battery, compressor, etc}? Similar to how the Tacoma has a lot of open space there.

Also, your engine bay looked pristine in the before image. I'll show you dirty (next time I get a photo of mine.)