Crackhead resurrection

Pulled up carpart dot comma. Searched oil cooler. Looks like most think the oil cooler for the engine is the transmission cooler.

Sent an email to one candidate. Waiting on response.

 

Here's Toyota's exploded diagrams with p/n prefixes. You don't want to know how much the assembly costs, you apparently can't just buy the body. Or maybe you do want to know? Here's a link to the parts breakout also, in case you can just get a seal or something you need. Maybe your truck is the DLX though, I didn't see a 4x4 version.

However, just really quick, check this out - the 2nd one in the list looks like the right part number (1571050030)

You may want to contact the folks at https://www.japanesetruckdismantling.net/ by phone just to see if they may have what you need too. ACTUALLY DISREGARD, THAT EBAY PAGE IS THEIR AUCTION STOREFRONT!!

 

@Tundra2 I just updated the post. If you read before this tag, please re-read again for updated info.

Although I think you said it was just a seal that popped in; the exploded parts diagram may net you what you need for p/n on a new seal. If you need help with that one, LMK.

 

I don't believe there's anything wrong with the housing that mounts to the engine seen below.


The only piece I need is the one below.


Looks like $1,200 new, and no seal available. Lol I'll see what mcgeorge has to offer.

 

Just saw this. Will re-read after page refresh.

 

Is the seal you need not shown in the blown-up diagram above?

It's not this fastener and o-ring? (1569550010)

 

Appears that this seal is metal, and looks totally reusable.




I was talking about the seal on the back of the oil cooler. I have plenty of FIPG for OIL left. Could squeeze out a line under the old gasket (which was removed undamaged) which should schmoooge out a FIPG seal around the gasket for oil tight-Ness.

Guess when I order a new oil cooler it should come with a seal in the back of it anyways. Probably wouldn't hurt to add a small amount of FIPG anyway

 

Wait! I found another exploded trying to hunt down that washer or o-ring (you just confirmed, it's a washer actually). You can just get that piece (90201-25007) for a buck or two.

But that said, check this out: https://parts.toyota.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_product=69375841&ukey_assembly=6709131

The part alone you want is (1571028020) in this diagram and you can find on Fleabay for about half the list price @ $325ish

 

Although I dunno how I feel about buying from the UAE vendors I'm always seeing on Fleabay.

Check this out: https://www.ebay.com/itm/313030640260

This has me wondering ... I don't see any seals in those very clear, up-close pictures. So where the hell did that chunk of seal you had come from? Surely not inside this unit?

The only seal seems to be the one in that last exploded diagram marked 15710B, which is toyota p/n 9030152006

It appears on the bottom of the housing per the eBay pics.

 

I bet you can find an universal o ring that will work fine….

 

The chunk of seal I had came from inside the cooler. Probably broken down by the brake cleaner I used, and then cut by the pressure washer I used.... lol

 

Pictures really can't do this one justice, you're 100% positive it was already inside the cooler itself? I believe it, just a little baffled based on other pictures (which also can't do justice ) of where the hell it originated. Much less how they managed to sandwich it inside the part at the factory!

 

Each plate looks like it was assembled, and then stamped together. Most likely plate, seal, plate, seal, etc.... stamp.

But yes, 100% positive it came from inside which is why I'm looking for another one...

 

This is probably your best bet, then.... https://www.ebay.com/itm/172556670778?epid=654744784

Cheap price. Full guarantee (1yr?). They know their shit, too. This is basically all they do....

But you may call and see if they can just do the body for cheaper.

 

If you need used parts, Denver has 3 dedicated toyota yards, plus a bunch more non-dedicated. I'm happy to grab whatever you need and send it to you.

I'm actually headed to one later today to grab a bunch of random parts for the Sequoia.

 

You are the man. I'll send you a PM soon.

 

I'm starting to feel the time crunch. I have this creeping feeling that I'll finally get thus truck buttoned up just in time for Swope to call me. I'll have to burp the anti-freeze loop, and then hit the road.

Talk about a trial by fire.

 

Calling upon the wisdom that is this forum. I'm curious if there's any other rubber lines to check on the cooling loop.

Already cleaned the Y-pipe in front of the engine. The oil cooler lines. I've checked one of the three heater core lines. Will check the others.

I have a new by pass hose on order from RA for the throttle body. Think it was @w666 that posted links to that.

Anything else? I can't seem to think of anything.

 

Positive vibes your way brother. Hopefully a smooth maiden voyage. With no residual crack. Rooting this thread on!

 

Was discussing my findings with co-workers. One of them outright told me to get out from under the truck because the heads are probably clogged too, and are warped.

Any truth to this? I don't know jack shit about these V8s, but I'm quickly learning.

Any thoughts, or considerations welcome.

 

Doubt heads are warped. To reiterate an a comment elsewhere this week. "it's not a GM!"

I do think it's important to flush things though. Where do you stand on that?

 

I can hook up the old oil cooler, and then bypass the heater core, and flush using @empty_lord's method posted 17 bazillion posts back. Air gun for power flush came in today. @TundraGirl2's father was kind enough to lend me his air compressor.

Or I can just by pass the oil cooler completely. Still jot sure how to catch all the crud....

 

I wouldn’t pass the cooler. It actually does well at cooling the oil. Replace with a used one and carry on with life

 

For power flushing purposes only. I'm still waiting on a new cooler to show up.

 

Does anyone know off hand what size the lines are for the heater core? I can make up an adapter at work, but unsure of the size.

 

I mean ... possibly I'm not understanding something because I'm at least a couple tallboys in at this point, but I'd probably be thinking about things from an A-to-B-to-Z perspective. Flush one water port from A to B, then from B to A. Then do C to E and E to C, then F to N and N to F, and so on.

Maybe @empty_lord gave some ideas about the best places to mount up, I don't recall. Like, should you start at the top/front of the block with the rear/lower drain plugs open, then work in reverse, from the drain plugs up? I doubt there's gonna be anything in your well or tap water that's worse than what's currently in the block etc.

 

In his case do the heater core separately. Engine? Just use the radiator hoses. Swap between both till the water flow comes out good and clean.
I suggest @Tundra2 watch the SMA video
I posted about the heater core, he does a good explaining on how to NOT blow up the heater core with water and air pressure

 

No point in trying to actively flush the cooler and it’s lines. You’ll never unclog the cooler without running the risk of blowing the internals apart and causing a really bad coolant to engine oil leak. Those things are densely packed

 

This is why I wanted to bypass the oil cooler for power flushing. Just get all the gunk out that I can from the engine as a whole.

 

You won’t need to bypass it. Just leave it hooked up. It’ll basically bypass itself. You’d only cause issues if you tried power flushing it directly