What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

This post really stinks...

 

Curious myself how easy it is to program. I just read through your thread on this.

 

I mean, upside is you never need to stop at a rest area. No more nasty gas station shithouses to deal with. However ... blue shitboxes aren't really known for staying particularly spotless.

 

Thanks for posting a pic, saved me from ordering a replacement today so I could butcher mine.

Yeah, I will say, that's not the most stout breather valve, but clearly it's a check valve, so water - in theory - should not be able to "suck" back into the pumpkin through it. The spring should cause the valve to fail shut vs. fail open also should the cap become seized in its resting position.

That of course assumes the spring hasn't fatigued, the rubber valve disc hasn't split or eroded, etc. I can see the desire not wanting to tempt fate and just mount the valve up high, though. I get it. But for daily driving, even in swampy conditions, maybe overkill.

If I were trailering a boat every weekend or - worse, mudding, due to the added sediment component - I'd probably switch to something more stout or relocate to higher ground still. But for the rest of us who use our trucks as haulers which may see an occasional weekend water x-ing, good enough!

 

Like @rock climber below I went with ATS H-D leafs. Love how they ride. Haven't towed or hauled with them yet. Center of hub to fender I ended up with 24" distance. Cost was a couple hundred each. Shipping was what got me at $160 since I'm closer to the west coast and they're in Pa, so close to $600. @Lil Steve and I believe @jpink have them also. Probably others I can't think of right now.

 

Ha, no problem!
Yeah, like you said probably fine for the majority of situations.

 

It helps that my truck is black, I’m faster than the stink!

 

Ordered my OME Lift kit. OEM LBJs, LCAs, SPC UCAs and all the hardware. Phew. Dirty Deeds exhaust arriving Friday, getting it welded in Monday. Going to be a fun couple of weeks.

 

Anyone got any fun cheap ideas I can do with all this crap?

 

There is a point when it's not even worth trying to sell things and I just throw, donate or give them away. I just mailed $40 worth of parts to Noah because I didn't think it was worth trying to sell them.

 

I'm definitely in the same boat. Just sent an OEM radio to one member, and have sent misc other tidbits to others in the last year or two. I've probably given Goodwill and the local Kidney Fund dropoff $2,000 in electronics and other stuff this summer. Clearing out.

I can't remember what I originally picked up all this stuff for. I know the gold Scoche/Stinger battery connects were for my C10 stuff, I need to see if it's compatible with my Tundra. I actually think it may work. The relays, I originally bought for LS swaps, but no idea what the hell I'll do with them now. Damn things are spendy!

I think I listed a gaggle of VW MKIV/MKV keyfobs here in 2019 that never did anything. I guess we all have our piles of stuff that have some value, but gotta find the right niche.

I need to find someone for my old OEM headlight housings to go also. The pile never ends...

 

Not sure what you have in your randoms bin, but I did an amp power wire to a little 8 or 6 place fuse box under my center console. It's nice being able to upgrade stuff without running a power wire into the cab. I think I've just used 2 places so far. I'll probably use another one for an ignition switched hot wire for my radar detector and whatever else.

Picture of stance after my bastardo pack leafs. The other pic is my pile of random leaves I need to pick up still. The wife is understanding haha.

 

did you use that adapter harness i linked from a 4th gen runner?

 

i have a shitload of leafs from tacos.. need to make a custom leaf pack for the 2002 taco when its ready now.

 

I've messed with a couple packs before. I've done some seriously sketchy stuff too. I used a slip roll to re arch leafs and then I used my shop press to finesse it a little more. I don't advise that, but mixing and matching is totally safe and fun. It's great when you find a nice medium duty leaf pack like from a jeep or something and you can use the thin long leaves to make a flexible pack. Mine turned out alright for just guessing and using my hindbrain.

My kid bugs me about something every 3 minutes and I loose track of my thoughts. I love him, but sometimes I really need to hold a 10 minute thought process haha.

 

https://hackaday.com/2017/11/24/junkyard-crossbow-aims-to-be-a-car-killer/

 

My old f350 was a custom leaf pack I made and had my father rearch at work. My uncle has that truck now 7 years later and it’s still the best leaf pack money could buy (free) lol

 

I've been dreaming of one of those along with a bowling ball cannon for a while.

 

"Allegedly made in USA". Yeah. And by "made" they mean "some pieces or parts assembled domestically" i.e. "assembled in USA from parts manufactured in other countries" just so they can attempt to meet FTC guidelines. It's such a scam. My steering wheel puller from a "USA Made" manufacturer was the same. I bought two on A-Zon, the foreign made one and USA made one. They both had the exact same texturing on the parts, same casting/mold imperfections. The stupid part? You don't assemble the damn thing. I guess their assembly was putting the pieces together into the plastic package? Ugh.

No. Diode Dynamics was wrong. The CF18 does fit my 2006 Access Cab with DRLs. It's moderately aggravating they go out of their way to warn you their product won't work for the 05/06 AC and RC trucks, and their guy even told me to my ear on the phone it won't work, yet, when I finally dug out the right connector, examined the flasher, sure as hell ... perfect fit. Works like a charm. Too bad their misinformation led to me missing out on them back when the product only cost $60.

Story of my life. I'm told I'll miss it someday. I'm not so sure....

 

Wait the flasher isn’t 60 anymore?

 

I got Denso spark plugs recently and noticed that the package said "made in usa" and in smaller font "with foreign materials"

I was hoping for made in Japan

 

33% price hike! It's $80 now for the CF18 SmarTap. I capitalized on the Labor Day sale to take 15% off (whopping $12 savings after all is said and done) so I didn't pay the current full price. But I'm still a little disappointed in DiodeDynamics and the misinformation they supplied. I mean, it probably led to them to missing out on thousands of sales, which I guess they didn't feel if demand is still high enough to warrant $80, but ... whatever.

I was going to buy one for my our Highlander, but with the higher prices and this experience, I'm just holding off until we trade it in for a newer Toyota SUV in 2024 that should hopefully have this feature natively. I wish I could say we'd update sooner, the driver's window in the Highlander is driving me nuts right now, making a loud POP noise when you roll it the last 1/4" as if it's going too far up into the channel, odd for an under 80k mile car, but .... meh.

 

the pop noise is almost always the bolt for the window coming loose. pop the door panel off and check.

 

Thanks for this tidbit, it's helpful. I was trying to avoid popping the door panel off, but wasn't sure exactly what it could be, nor find YouTube vids with the same symptom.

At this point, I've gotta do something, it's starting to mark the tint on the glass where it's rubbing inside the rubber channel at end of path.

PS - also mentioned this before, but have driveshaft clunk driving me gd nuts also.

 

Driveshaft clunk on the highlander or the tundra?

 

Highlander. Tundra is 6-7 years older than the Highlander, Tundra has quite a bit less issues.

Highlander has the defective shaft clunk. Out of warranty, can't get it fixed for free, just living with it, hopefully it won't kill us on the interstate.

Highlander also has driver side window issue, where it pops extremely loud at the end of its roll-up cycle; it's not the clicking sound found in YouTube videos where someone is rolling down the window and it's clicking. This is a distinct *POP* sound right when it makes contact with the upper seal, almost like the window is going slightly too far. Otherwise, totally silent.

I can take a video of the popping sound if it's remotely interesting. I'd love to know what it is without needing to dive into the door on blind diagnostics.

 

Oh the steering shaft clunk? That’s a common one. Happens when turning the wheel or accelerating


The window pop sounds exactly like loose window bolts. I deal with that a lot

removing the door panel takes a few minutes to do.

 

Apparently common on our Rav4 too. It makes the noise but from what I read it's harmless other than being annoying. Some guys fixed it by getting a needle into that steering shaft sleeve and injecting penetrant down there to lube it up.

 

@empty_lord @FirstGenVol here's a couple of quickie videos showing what our Highlander power window is doing. 60k low-mile 2012 Limited, fully loaded minus GPS. Just started about 5k miles ago. Can't tell where the popping sound is coming from on the driver side door when this happens, maybe the top corner. The felted receiving track is free of any debris and obstructions. My shakycam skills make it hard to see, but the window bulges a little bit when the pop happens, but that may be normal when a power window fully seats. I can tell by markings on the tint there's some abrasion that's happened along the window edge since this started, and the top corner of the window has some rubber rubout from the channel corner. Also pops again (more of a releasing pop sound) when you roll down. Last tidbit of info, if I roll the window down halfway, there's no side-to-side or up-and-down play noticeable, so I don't think it's a loose track or similar issue.

(EDIT: Solved this a few pages forward [link]. Bolt came loose on the window track. Found it in the bottom of the door. 20 minute fix to retrieve and threadlock into place. 15 of those minutes were spent finagling the door card off and on again.)

https://youtu.be/sCd6aKkh45g

https://youtu.be/Bz-J4q-1DU4

 

sounds like a shattered window waiting to happen