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Sway bar bolts suck

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by Adam61484, May 7, 2017.

  1. May 7, 2017 at 9:45 PM
    #1
    Adam61484

    Adam61484 [OP] New Member

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    2012 Toyota Tundra Rock Warrior
    Westin bull bar, readylift 3in. lift/leveling kit, 33in. tires on factory rock warrior rims
    Ok guys here's the problem, I am trying to install a leveling/lift kit on my 2012 rock warrior. Reason being the dealership I bought the truck from put really nice 33's on and I just want a more level and slightly higher stance to complete the look. Anyway, the directions say to lower or remove the sway bar so I can install some spacers, sounds good. However both bolts on the driver's side just spin, I have the urge to kick myself in the nuts now for not using an impact, instead of a breaker bar, to shock them loose. I am hoping for some help here so I don't have to return the kit. As of right now I said screw it and put the thing back together and re boxed the kit. Please tell me this is a common happening and there is an easy fix. On a good note I antiseezed the living crap out of everything else so if there is a fix the next time will be that much easier.
     
  2. May 8, 2017 at 4:07 AM
    #2
    SOB

    SOB Big Member

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    The top bolt threads directly into the frame so the only explanation I could think is that bolt is stripped. As for the bottom bolt that connects the bar to the end link - this one has a lock nut on it. Did you put a wrench on the other side when trying to loosen it?
     
  3. May 8, 2017 at 4:41 AM
    #3
    Adam61484

    Adam61484 [OP] New Member

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    Westin bull bar, readylift 3in. lift/leveling kit, 33in. tires on factory rock warrior rims
    It's the bolts that go in on the frame in the front, not the bolts at the link rod at the control arm. I think maybe I can cut the heads off and fish the bolts out through the hole, the one with plastic cap in it, and maybe weld a piece of steel to the nut to keep it from spinning. I will just have to get some new bolts.
     
  4. May 8, 2017 at 4:54 AM
    #4
    Law323

    Law323 it’s only weird if you make it weird

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    Yep, you've gotta get new bolts if the threads are shot, but if the hole is stripped, I'd just get some lock nuts/washers and loctite blue.
     
  5. Jul 19, 2019 at 11:07 AM
    #5
    monaco730

    monaco730 New Member

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    I removed my front sway bar and got shorter bolts because i still need to support my front reservoirs. One of the bolts is basically out but just spins. You had this problem, correct? It feels like the top nut that was welded to the body broke off and now it wont let the bolt come out. Is this what happened to you?
     
  6. Jul 20, 2019 at 8:41 AM
    #6
    Adam61484

    Adam61484 [OP] New Member

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    Westin bull bar, readylift 3in. lift/leveling kit, 33in. tires on factory rock warrior rims
    Yes that is exactly what happened. A quick and semi permanent fix was to slide a piece of scrap metal into the cavity using a piece of gorilla tape to hold it to a stiff piece of wire. Once in place I was able to tighten and loosen the bolts no problem. I know it's kind of a redneck fix and a little frustrating when fishing it into place but hey it worked.
     
    equin and monaco730 like this.
  7. Apr 1, 2021 at 9:46 AM
    #7
    Capt1963

    Capt1963 New Member

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    Adam would love a little more detail on what you inserted, planning on cutting bolts off an inserting new ones, if I could find a way to hold them I would tighten those suckers down.
     
  8. Apr 1, 2021 at 10:01 AM
    #8
    Adam61484

    Adam61484 [OP] New Member

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    Westin bull bar, readylift 3in. lift/leveling kit, 33in. tires on factory rock warrior rims
    Just a piece of angle iron cut up to fit in the frame hole and some 10 gauge wire, stacked the angle iron till the "welded" nut didn't spin anymore. As stated previously it was frustrating to fish it around but it did work. I just hope I never have to take them back out.
     
  9. Apr 1, 2021 at 10:45 AM
    #9
    equin

    equin Texarican Tundra

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    TRD Rear Anti-sway bar, TRD Pro skid plate, Bedrug bed mat, 17" Icon Rebounds, 315/70/17 BFG AT/K02, Bilstein 6112s front (for now), Fox 2.5 Remote Reservoirs rear, Diamondback SE, Dirtydeeds Industries 8" stainless BAMuffler, aFe dry air filter, TRD air intake accelerator
    I've read a few other posts on here about the nut welded to the frame breaking off and spinning like you described. I'm guessing that nut is tack-welded on there and can sometimes break free of the tack welds.
     

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