AZ BS

Right! They had a 2wd Tahoe and the company truck which is a 3500 Silverado. They just stood there and watched the whole time.

 

Free entertainment!

 

Time to buy more shit!

 

https://media.giphy.com/media/eYWj6...bn7ciclxop6xk2lhbxi4gmzybi&rid=giphy.gif&ct=g


Now I need to get back to work myself.....

 

Passed a little milestone today in my other yota. Now that it's broken in fully I won't feel bad going over 90.

 

I see you have the turbo on.

 

Always!

 

I don’t have that button, but I try to turn off my OD with all the in town driving I do

 

I think it works the same way. Didn't really notice the difference until my button broke and I couldn't turn it on anymore. Swapped the button out and it works again.

 

We have now been in AZ for 2 nights. Currently renting an RV spot in Chino Valley as we continue to do some house hunting between prescott and Flagstaff.

 

We’re getting douched in midtown

 

Hasn't hit my house yet but I see it coming. Just spent 7 hours yesterday and 6 today getting the yard cleaned up for a party we're throwing for my brother in law. 17 trash bags and I'm not even 1/3 way done yet.

 

And it's here...

 

Oh yeah!

 

Come down to Tucson.

 

Spent my first day of training for the new job down near Tempe. Thank God for good AC.

 

Shocks: going to go with ADS shocks probably from MCM Fab with their uppers.

No plans for a front bumper but will add a winch with hidden mount. 650 or 700 pound springs?
2.5 or 3.0 front? Anyone upgraded from 2.5 to 3.0? If so was it worth it?

Rear bypass or no?

Will probably do some higher speed off-roading when the road permits but probably more the slow stuff.

 

depends on your use case. You mention high speed so that puts you squarely in the bypass range (if your concept of high speed is 70+ mph through open desert with potentially unexpected washouts and hits that put air between your tires and the ground. AKA a fuckin good time).

have you already done your research and decided on progressive valving? You say you’ll do a lot of slow stuff, and progressive valving is not meant for that. ADS, Fox and King all make progressive shocks. Icon and Bilstein make digressive shocks.

somwhere on the forum here I’ve written a fair amount about the difference and my personal reasons for going with Icon bypasses. The short version is:

Comfortable on slower trails (ride zone digressive)
Able to be jumped (bump zone progressive)

You don’t have to go full retard, but you can if you want to.

 

I agree and in my opinion it really is all about expectation management.

Hint: you should not try to drive like BJ Baldwin with a bolt-on suspension kit and expect your truck to come out the other side unscathed. If you do, please recruit a friend to record the carnage.

1.) Pick a realistic goal for your vehicle...(eg...i want a great ride everyday with the ability to go 50 mph over 6 inch washboard without spilling your weekend starbucks 2x/month)
2.) Define your parameters/constraints you've got to work with (eg budget, parts availability, parts compatibility, drive train compatibility, body compatibility, N.V.H., payload, storage, willingness to modify (warranty concerns for some). etc.)
3.) Design and validate your suspension systems (it isn't just about coilovers and springs here) within the aforementioned parameters/constraints as highlighted in step 2.
4.) Does the outcome of step 3 satisfy the outcome of step 1?
If not, redefine your goals and repeat until you find a balance of your goals and your constraints.


-JS

 

I'm sure somebody has posted this before...

 

Way more than I wanted to think about
Had Kings on the Tacoma and they were great for slow obstacles and high speed bumpy roads.
High speed to me is not open desert but more bumpy roads 40+ mph when the circumstances permit.

As for Icon's I can't get past the thin top hats. I know bazillions of folks have had no issues, but, I have seen pic's of some broken.
"drive train compatibility, body compatibility", sheesh! It's a Tundra, it's got a drive train and a body

I do tow a 4500 pound camper.

 

These are factors: if you decide you want long travel and are 4wd, you're going to need extended length axles (drive train) and going to need to make room for that glorious new stance so here comes fiberglass fenders...

just the reality, set yourself a goal and start plucking away

-JS

 

Please explain to me what is going on here, I mean I see what's there but how easy was it and how much does it help?

 

-JS

 

Not going long travel, to much expense.

 

Long travel...yet!

But in all reality, get a feel by riding in some trucks around here and decide what works best for your needs.

In east valley alone we have a fairly wide gamut of rigs with a variety of suspension setups.

everything from OE trd pro fox's, westcott modified trd pro bilsteins, icon stage 9, fox 2.0 IFPs, Fox 2.5 R/R non-dsc, to Full blown long travel.... now getting us all together to do back to back ridealongs, but we are slacking....

-JS

 

Oh I can probably afford it, I just want to know if it's worth it.

 

Really depends on your use. Wanna go fast bumpy roads for a long period of time...look no further...wanna take it up a notch to go go faster and longer....go full long travel and rear links and enjoy the bliss =)

-JS