Take it back to discount or alignment shop?

So after all the front suspension work I've done, then new tires about a week before alignment I've had a shake since.
Started initially around 50-55 mph tapered off on slight curves on highway and higher speeds them going straight comes back. Had tires rebalanced, checked tire pressure as per their maintenance program I guess. guy at discount says I threw a weight..yeah, ok.
Still does it about same speeds etc.
There was, a little inside shoulder wear prior to alignment. Now it seems that the middle treads/lugs are wearing more on the backside of that same drivers side tire. If that makes sense. I'll try and get a good picture later today.
I'm on the fence on who to call at this point, I don't really wanna deal with one shop saying it's the others doing but I know I paid 181.00 for the alignment and I'd think they'd make or at least check it for free if they gave a shit about customers coming back.

 

If it were me I would take it back to have the alignment checked and if it's still happening then go for a road force balance.

 

Maybe have another shop check your bearings and control arms... shacking 55 and at certain speeds is a tire balancing issue. Wear on tire is either an alignment issue or wheel bearing /control arm issue. Alignment shop should have caught it amd advised ypu about it, but I would take it to another shop and check those items...

 

I'll keep it in mind. Bearings are new with all the suspension work in May or there about. Bushings are new OEM about a year and half ago

 

If you had a shop install them, I would take it to them and have them check them.

 

How many miles are on the new tires and new setup?

I have purchased almost ALL of my tires through Discount. There customer service is hard to beat. Unfortunately in these types of situations, it's going to be process by elimination. Start by rechecking your work. Make sure all nuts/bolts are tight. Check wheel bearings, UCA, LBJ's etc for play. If that checks out, have the tires road force balanced. Once that is done, have the shop re-check the alignment. Most shops that do alignments will do a free suspension check as well. You can let the service advisor know that since the alignment, there is a shake at 50mph. Ask them to have a mechanic ride along with you.

It could also depend on the tires you selected. I have had a few tires over the years that had a break in period. Usually only with aggressive tread patterns but once I got a few hundred miles on them, they settled down. Keep us posted on what you find out and good luck.

 

Do you have Toyota wheels or aftermarket wheels? Toyota wheels need to be balanced with a Haweka adapter. Most shops do not have this particular adapter. I even found it hard to find a dealer that uses it, even though there is TSB about using it. On a previous Toyota vehicle I ended up going to a hubcentric aftermarket wheel and I had no issues once I made the switch. Prior to that I had used 3 different independent shops and 1 dealer and was never able to get my wheels balanced properly.

 

Quick check is rotate fronts to rears, and verse visa

 

Look at your bushings, a 2006 could be ready for some replacement bushings on the lower control arm.

I had this issue on my 2012 Subaru. Felt like an imbalance at certain speed yet corners, turns, acceleration made it feel better. Issues with Improper wear on my tires. Discovered the bushings were worn, it explained the wobble and the irregular wear. Plus alignment can’t be done correctly due to the movement in the bushing.

could just be regular imbalance too… if you have them rebalance ask them to spin the tire on the wheel… they hate having to do it but it can make a huge difference. Have them also look for wheel/tire out of round issues.

 

Probably somewhere between 500-1000 without having the documents with me on miles. Mechanic is gonna drive it this weekend and see what he thinks.

Aftermarket wheels, same tires I had before suspension work just had to get a set a touch more narrow.

Good to know, bushings are fairly new OEM. Not sure what you mean by spin tire on the wheel? Just actually break the bead clean it up and reseat it, then rebalance?

 

Spin the tire means to break the beads and literally spin the tire while the wheel stays stationary. Both wheels and tires have high and low spots, and matching those spots up differently can make a significant difference on the ability to balance out well. In general the manufacturer yellow painted dot on the tire should be matched up with the valve (tire light spot meets presumed wheel heavy spot). Note, if your dots are very close together, than you can presume that the tire weight balance is well above manufacturer specs and that their systems likely could not clearly identify low/high points.