Which crank pulley holder for removing crank bolt?

I see two types,



or



Is one any better than the other?

 

Depends on whether you can get your socket in the center hole...I know the top one works, not so sure about the bottom

 

FYI, as I recall the threaded holes in the harmonic balancer are thoroughly rusted, and need to be chased with a tap before the bolts will thread in. Also, the bolts supplied with my tool were too long, and came out the back of the pulley and into the cheesy plastic cover behind. I wound up using shorter bolts from a puller kit I have.

No, I don't recall the thread pitch (but I may have already posted this ~ 1 1/2 yrs ago when I did mine).

 

Ended up ordering the latter one for $29. Will see how it works.

 

If heather were here, she’d recommend the big mamba impact, zip zip

 

I got you.

 

If Mando were here he would agree. Big HD Impact gun. This is the way.

 

From just a quick glance, there isn't room for an impact unless you remove the radiator.

 

That’s the safest option even when not using a impact, you’ll thank me later

 

I definitely removed the radiator. Are you ding the timing belt job?

 

^^^ agree with @FrenchToasty

It should not be a rush job and it gives one a chance to even inspect/clean the coils of radiator better !

 

Yes the timing belt.

 

I used the opportunity to replace my radiator and put fresh coolant in. A good plan for a 90k interval anyway.

 

Since when is the radiator a service item?

 

is "service item" synonomus with Maintenance item ?
If so, the maintenance schedule is to check the radiator core and condenser every 30K !

 

Check for leaks or debris. You don't have to remove it for that if you have a blow gun.

 

Don’t remove it and let us know how it goes.

 

Since they started making them out of plastic and they started cracking and leaking with age. Mine made it 170k miles. That's not quite 2 timing belts depending on time elapsed. Radiators are $85-150. Cheap enough for me to do it while I'm in there every timing belt change instead of on the side of the road in some random town on a road trip. I wouldn't have attempted the timing belt with the radiator in. What a pain in the back that would be.

 

I’m not even old, and I wouldn’t want to hunch over the rad the entire time trying to get to all the components.

 

I'm at 180k or so and planning to do mine sometime soon. Don't want to worry about cracking and definitely don't want to worry about pink milkshake from trans fluid and coolant mix.

 

There's Proactive maintenance, and then there's Reactive maintenance....

.02

 

So where do you stop? Why not replace the alternator or power steering pump while you're in there.

 

I think some people do the alternator while they're in there honestly.
I guess it just depends what your budget is and how much stuff you don't want to have to worry about later.

 

Since the consequences of a transmission cooler failure results in catastrophic failure of the transmission. There have been many reports of pink milkshakes among Gen-1 Tundras lately. Check this thread:

https://www.tundras.com/threads/engine-oil-cooler-rubber-lines.93063/#post-2350589

My previous vehicle was an '02 4Runner and the consensus of owners on T4R.com (based on 1st hand experience) was to replace the radiator every 10 years. Mine had a pink milkshake at about 15 years. The radiator and trans cooler design on the 4Runner is the same as on our Tundras.

I believe as more of these trucks approach the 20 year mark we're going to see more and more of these incidents. It's a little over $100 for a new radiator. You're already draining it for a timing belt service. At that point, it's about a 20 minute job.

In this thread, I posted pics of the failed trans cooler removed from the radiator. It shows where it fails and why it fails.
https://www.tundras.com/threads/rough-transmission-shifting.93323/#post-2355468 (BTW, this that was started as a result of a pink milkshake.)

I replaced the radiator as a maintenance item on my Tundra a couple months ago. I haven't dissected it yet, but when I do I'll post a pic of the trans cooler.

BTW, this is not exclusive to Toyotas. This is a Denso radiator problem. Honda uses Denso radiators in at least some of their vehicles (Ridgeline and Odyssey for instance) and the same transmission cooler failures are reported with those vehicles.

 

Wouldn't installing a separate transmission cooler be even better?

 

Mine has both. And some have chosen to separate the transmission cooling from the radiator to avoid the disaster scenario. And as to your previous comment, you stop with things that have no history of failure on a timeline, and things that wouldn't leave you stranded if they do.

 

Pink milkshake = engine replacement

So...

Rediator replacement = preventative maintainence

 

I don't see a difference between the two. It isn't like they get the same job done differently, they do the same job the same way.

 

The difference between which two?

 

I believe he's referring to the internal VS. external Trans cooler.
@Baller The difference is that the external can fail without effecting the engine, while the internal cooler (inside the Radiator) can have an effect on the engine antifreeze/coolant if it fails. And the other way around. If the engine side fails and you get coolant into the transmission, that would have detrimental effects on the Transmission.

Makes sense?