Crackhead resurrection

Even for normal towing it’s fine. I just anticipate cross country at some point picking up vehicles if my habits don’t get better.

 

I'm planning for a small-ish travel camper. Not sure what, or when. This truck should be fine, but it'll be everywhere at some point.

 

Yea oem or denso is fine.


I just happen to collect vehicles that when towed are around 6-7k.. aka maxing out the capacity of this thing

 

Not to threadjack, but now that we've caught your attention, do either of those I linked look adequate / decent to you? Did you try either before you found your custom one and they didn't fit? I'm OK with $450 over $200 b/c the labor is all rolled into one big teardown and replace and that's the key thing I simply don't have physical space to do on my own.

 

I thought about offering to send you mine but I'm not sure it'd be worth the cost of shipping in the condition it's in. I'll get a closer look once it's pulled. Jason doesn't want to yank it b/c if he did he would have to push the truck around his lot and he's on a bit of a hill.

 

The one you linked me didn’t exist when I bought my radiator. My only options were mishimoto (not bad, but no trans cooler) or champion (avoid champion light the plague

 

@daveeasa did
You ever get that bed mat?

 

Thanks! I wanted to avoid making a stupid and easily avoidable mistake and this was the advice I sought.

 

Total radio silence on the mat. I should probably check my card at some point to see if they charged me?

 

Well, if yours is still in OK condition, and the RA.com one shows up with a fork lift fork hole in it like the last three did, I'll let you know. Just box that bugger up good. I got sick of ordering damaged radiators when I was doing that job on the V6. Took me three of them before I realized I could ship to store. Which was the way to do it. The shipping boys care more if they think it's for retail purchase. They care a whole lot less if they think it's going to a person.

I haven't found a denso ship to store for pickup yet. Seems like they all ship to home thanks to the corona.

 

so a bit more research reveals that these might be everything I want them to be? They even have an H4 harness for $5 to provide the dimming. I think with the 3157CK they would be in "drl" mode with parking light though. Not sure on that.

 

Working on adding a directory to the first post.

 

Wanting to see how lucky you get on rock auto denso. Might order one myself depending on your luck.

 

LMAO. You'll be the first to know. Hoping that the TB/WP goodies show up first. Get the engine all torn down, and then install new goodies. Pressure wash the old radiator if the new radiator is good. Flush the system with the old radiator to catch gunkies.

 

So if I'm thinking exhaust. Specifically headers... @NickB_01TRD mentioned having them ready before the frame swap to save on labor. That'd be the easiest time ever to do them.

I need options, opinions, links! I've never looked for the V8 before, and always had to browse on TW for my engine.

If the timing belt wasn't so bad, I could have the dealer do that too with the engine out. They could pressure wash to their hearts delight with the engine out. @Professional Hand Model would have a field day!

 

JBA short headers seem to be the leader from everything I've seen here. Since those seem like the most direct replacement that's still being made. I don't think the dealer would do long tubes lol. All the exhaust from the resonator back at least is free labor as well. Although I'm sure that's only if you're putting back on a near factory exhaust.
Edit: Also timing belt had no discount for engine out or not.

 

Last topless poll I started got shut down and almost got people banned.

 

Uh, I think that's the point, bro.

Ugly. As. Sin. Yech. Are you just trying to throw money away at this point?

Not trying to be the wet blanket, but, again, end goal here? Are you just trying to throw money away at this point?

I was told long ago, "one project at a time or your project becomes a monster you can't tackle and you'll never finish". Convenience fits when doing something like a TB and replacing water pump and tensioners b/c you're in there. However, "I'm getting my frame swapped, so might as well throw some headers on it" is a pretty big stretch. I'd reco to get that TB/WP/tstat/tensioner situation done, then be prepared for suspension stuff to need doing when the frame gets done (and plan for the $$ to do it).

Later on, work on full exhaust from header to tip as its own thing just so you don't wind up in the mire of unfinishedprojectland. But don't expect any gains from adding headers, nor any massive gains from doing the entire exhaust. These engines are already well tuned. There are definitely more effective gains to be had.

WTG, jerk!

 

Do you mean having the dealer install headers? I feel like they are still going to charge you a lot for labor on that. If you are going to do it, I'd go long tubes. The gains on shorties are there, but pretty minimal from what most people say.

Pretty much this. If you are going to keep sinking money into this truck, I would pay a body shop to fix that rust hole in the body on the passenger side. You don't want that to continue getting worse.

 

Manifolds on his truck seem to be junk. All I ever hear on here is that doing manifolds sucks real bad. I do agree that it could be pricey due to broken studs and stuff but depending on actual cost it might make sense. I think it's at the very least worth looking into.

 

Worth getting eyes on them at least. But yeah, if they are all rotted then it makes sense to throw headers on. Maybe they will do it when the cab is off.

 

I agree.

However, if they're intact, not rusted through, not leaking all to hell, functioning.... the small 3-5hp gain tops isn't worth the cost IMHO.

It is nice letting someone else crack them off and replace though, and deal with the risk of snapping a fastener here or there.

 

I'm not 100 percent sure what all is going on with his truck but it sounds like garbage. It needs some help in that department somewhere at some point. Seems like OEM manifolds cost about the same as headers give or take although I haven't looked into it too heavily myself.

 

What E.L. Said, OEM will work for almost everyone. Our cooling systems are pretty stout and efficient. My radiator got a crack near the top mounting bolt and I wasn’t going to wait two days for a denso from Amazon. I picked a NAPA unit with a lifetime warranty and it’s been fine.

 

I have a unit from O'Reilly in my truck that works fine. It's made in China. The Denso radiators are also made in China from what I've read.

 

I'm not 100% sure what's going on either, but it sounds like what hot dogshit tastes like. The exhaust is all welded together from no cats, and straight pipes installed. Looked like it was all stick weld too. Inexperienced stick weld.

I don't even know if the rednecks clamp thingy rusted off between the headers (or collector?) and the rest of the Downstream exhaust. I figure if it did they'd just tack weld it as best they could.

 

The bezel showed up today.



There's only a few minor things wrong with it as far as I can tell without plugging it into the truck. One of the white/yellow clips is broken off.


And two of the four HVAC tube clips is busted. Nothing a little bit of JBweld can't fix for keeping the tube on.

 

If you bought it on eBay, be sure to plug it all in and make sure all the buttons work, HVAC engages, no LCD segments are missing on the display, and the 4HI button lights up STAT. Wouldn't it be cool if 4HI suddenly started working with the new bezel?

 

That's the plan for tomorrow. I already pulled the bulbs out of it to check. They were all OK looking. Few of them looked burnt out which is just status quo.

Hopefully 4HI works with the new bezel. That'd be cool as hell.

 

I have two quarts of this stuff. I'll do the "deep" clean method once the TB/WP have been changed.