What kind of life is left in a 180K well taken care of 2007 Tundra?

Hi All!

I've purchased a 1962 restored airstream. 22' Flying Cloud. GWVR 5200lbs... bought it with out a towing vehicle. Now I'm looking for a Tundra. Never owned a truck. Tundra's I hear are super reliable and can pull all day. I am heading to look at a single owner 2007 SR5 DoubleCab, 4x4, Standard Bed, 5.7L with 180K on it. Tow package included. Looks rather babied to me. Gentleman selling says the local dealership checked the frame 5 years about and said it didn't need any thing done to it. Almost every other truck i've seen for sale mentions the frame warranty work.

Can I get some members to chime in on what kind of life is left in a 180K (presumably) well taken care of Tundra?

Thanks!

 

Some have hit over 400K miles on theirs.

 

I use my 2008 with 175k to tow about 7-10 times a year. mostly close to home, 120-200 miles away.
it's been great and I have never been left stranded on any trips or in general for that matter.
I have always kept up with all maintenance especially pay close attention to brakes and tires.
I Just upgraded to Power Stop brakes as a matter of fact.
However, I do plan on getting the 2022 Tundra once released. This current Tundra has served me well but 13 years old now and time for an upgrade.

 

BigArt! Nice rig... what's the Weight of that trailer all loaded up? I'm in the northeast and will be traveling mostly thru Maine, New Hampshire, VT. Some longer trips to Mid West occasionally. I noticed that all the F150 specs usually include a GCVW but don't see one on the 2007 brochure... in fact the brochure I downloaded shows that the GVWR is less than the curb weight... What am I missing here or is that a straight up typo...

 

Get underneath with a flashlight and a hammer and look for anything more than surface rust. Bang around for soft spots. I'd bring an OBD scanner too. Run the VIN at Carfax and ask for service records, especially oil changes. It'll still be easy too miss stuff but it's better than nothing.

 

Good Call on the hammer. That'll sound dead for sure. Don't have a scanner at the moment. I take it CEL light may not be on even if codes are present?

 

I tell people who come to look at my vehicles that I’m being open and honest but if they start banging on the body or frame with a hammer or screwdriver be prepared I’m about to do the same to whatever they drove up in.

For example I have a tundra with soft rockers. Soft but intact. I’ve pointed it out. You smash it with a hammer or screwdriver and I’m not gonna be happy and neither is your quarter panel or windshield.

 

If it's truly been well maintained, I'd say it has at least 820k miles left in it...

 

You should be aware that 07 and early 08 trucks had some torque converter problems, and this could definitely be an issue that you end up having to pay for. It's not the end of the world, but it's somewhat expensive. It's possible that the PO had this repair done already, and it's definitely worth asking!

 

Bought my 2007 with 188k on it in Aug of 2017. Soon to roll over 265k.

 

Sweet trailer & tow rig. Where did you source those towing mirrors?

 

Anyone have the gvwr from the door sticker handy for their '07 4x4 double cab 5.7 standard bed?

 

Welcome from LA (Lower Alabama)! Your truck has barely been broken in.

 

Thanks,
https://www.1aauto.com/toyota-sequo...ror-set-trail-ridge/i/1amrp02081/1254990/2008

 

Thank ya... used to spend some time up in Gadsden AL for work.

 

The rig is 8,500 loaded with 1,100 tung weight. I know i'm over the limits and that's part of why i'm getting a new truck.
It tows like a dream though. I have air bags, 5100 shocks and a good WDH. (Equalizer) all my trips are in fair weather, no windy or long hauls.

 

Had an 06....a different engine but 230,000 when I got rid of it....nothing wrong with it....my 2004 tacoma has 175,000...looks practically new....

 

There have been a few go that far, which is darned impressive. OP, the answer is probably that you can drive it until you're tired of it unless you just let it die slowly through long term neglect.

 

You have the 4.7L then?

 

5.7

 

mine is a 2007 limited, right now I have just under 320,000km on it. no rust, no issues, no problem! I tow a Jayco with a dry weight of 6337 pounds. just towed it a total of 1422km this month on a large vacation with the family. only problem was the small fuel tank requiring a few extra stops, no big deal.
awesome airstream, I dream of one day owning one myself.
take care out there.

 

The truck is probably fine with high mileage, but you'll still be dealing with rust issues and issues related to age with plastics and rubbers regardless of the fact that it's a toyota. You would be money and time ahead in the long run to buy a southern truck with zero rust.

But if you have to buy locally, frame rust is probably the most important thing to look out for.

 

See post 4; your tow limit if you have the tow package with the 5.7 is over 10,000 pounds. The 4.7 with same package was rated for 7,800 pound tow limit.

 

i just purchased a 2010 with 160k miles. It was a one owner and taken care of well with all service records. Im expecting to keep this truck for another 100k easily.

 

Good Stuff! Talk'n clicks man! I'm originally from Ontario. What gas/L now? With the fuel economy of that truck... must feel it in the wallet at the pump.

 

The original owner said it hasn't had frame warrantee work done because the dealership said it was fine. Looking at the truck tonight though. Where should I focus attention? Also what treatment can I put on the frame to mitigate rust?

 

Must consider the payload rating of the truck (different depending on factory and aftermarket accessories) ....with you, passengers, all gear, fluids... And the tongue weight of your trailer.

Cant just look at the tow rating.

 

Used cars are a crapshoot, Period. You’re odds are better with some vehicles and you pay for that via higher resale but it doesn’t mean you won’t have issues. Keep some money on the side for repairs whatever you buy.

 

Looking at cars that died of rust it mostly seems to be near welds between different beams especially behind wheels where I guess salt gets kicked up. I dunno I'm not an expert.

I removed and converted the surface rust on my CT '08 which I bought last year with the rust after carefully assessing it. I hope to be able to fight it off long enough that it dies of something other than rust. I'll make an instructional thread one day but you can Google 'rust conversion'.

 

Probably too late now, but the worst spot for rust on almost every pickup is going to be just behind the cab where the frame kicks up and over the rear axle. Other that that, criticial suspension parts need to be looked at. Think of the salt and dirt spray and where it would land and sit on the frame and body parts. That's where to look. The boxed areas, crivices, and spots that hold moisture and dont clean out on their own.

Besides frame rust, you have rust on brake lines and other brake parts, rusting hose clamps and hose crimps, rusting wheels, anything else that is steel. All small things that will require attention eventually. You can put a rust converter on it to try and stop the spread. Then keep it oiled heavily to try and protect it.

My 2010 came from New York. I have brake lines and all the brake components except the master cylinder under the hood that I'm replacing this winter because of rust. I have bandaided a few things, but I'm doing it all as preventative maintence. I'll never have to do it again now that's it's down south. My 2007 on the other hand, besides the dirt and mud, looks brand new underneath because it's a Florida truck.