What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I dunno, we may need to fight over that one.

 

Cleaned the bed out. Took more frame pics. Scheduled frame inspection.

 

This.

 

I tired those and the heads kept getting knocked out/off when I closed the doors

 

Interesting.. it's been a few weeks with them and have had no problem at all. I did just use the simple inserts with the ribbed edges to hold it in. It sits pretty flush with the panel.

 

or be civilized and make it friday's poll @bmf4069

 

Beat to the punch. Fridays poll will have to be more fun than that.

 

Is there a……… poll section on the forum? I was looking for darkness shopping cart poll

 

"Should RUSTYNUTS fight his taillights?"

 

Getting back to headlights, or more specifically corner / signal lights, does anyone know if there is an OEM full clear option here? DEPO has a clear which I think looks a little nicer so I'll likely go with that unless there is an OEM version of it? Downside is no amber reflector sidemarker but the light should be on at night and I was thinking about doing a switchback for combo DRL (white) and turn (amber w flash).

 

Nobody? OK, I'll be the child.

Look y'all! We're on page 10.......69. Lol.

 

Dropped my 2006 off at the shop two days ago. They just got to it (lack of workers willing to show up). Gave me a quote for a new timing belt, water pump, drive belt, and coolant flush. Should be ready in a few days. After that, I'm all caught up on scheduled maintenance.

 

Make sure you hang out until 1m39s

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oOg91PpnshI

 

Picked up the Tundra from the dealer today. New roof complete, which rounds out the "Big List" for 2021.

October 2020:



August 2021: Day I dropped it off.



Today:

 

Radiator cap failed while picking up a 4x8 sheet of steel.

Replaced with a Sankei one from Napa Parts that was in walking distance from my destination a mile away.

 

That sounds like a poll.

 

Whatcha building?

 

It may be the ultimate in lazy, but I stopped at the battery store & had them replace the battery in both Tundri remotes today. Of course the one I use died on a rainy night & it's the one I use because the other one needed a battery. silly money, but it's a life crimes task done & off the list.

 

Like this?

 

Yeah, nice, @Tundra2, the switchbacks are to your liking?

No OEM option on the clears I take it? But f it, they are turn signals so who cares right?

 

Yes. The switch backs worked better than I was expecting them to.

There's a parts list on my build thread. I already had the 1157 turn signal sockets, and the diode dynamic turn signal relay.

 

Prototyping.

 

So, white DRL and amber turns? DRL's are ignition switched or you have a switch in the cab?

 

The bulbs do all the switching. I have no extra control over them. Only the OEM turn signal stalk

 

Bulbs have a tough life. Switching. Between getting lit, and then going to sleep.

 

Bump stops. It's about time I changed them...one of them was just hanging on for dear life, and the other was gone completely. The OEM p/n is 48306-04010.



I mean how hard could this be, right? I soaked the u-bolts/nuts in PB Blaster for several days, figuring that I would be able to just spin the nuts off with an impact wrench. Wrong! I had to use a 24" breaker bar with another 24" of pipe just to get any movement at all. I decided to wait 'til I got some replacement u-bolts before I continued. I didn't want to re-use them after so much force to unbolt them. Turned out to be a good idea...the corrosion had nearly welded the nuts to the bolts. It took me ~ 1 hour with a breaker bar to remove them. Finally I got one bolt out and was able to rotate it all to slide the old bump stop out, and the new in.



I read a lot online about whether to use anti-seize or not when reassembling (I mean how often, if ever, will I need to remove it again?), and I learned that anti-seize (and other thread lubricants) would create more pressure for the same amount of tightening torque than not, and I should reduce the torque ~ 20%. I did not know this...





I was able to get this all done with one new u-bolt per side. I elected not to use anti-seize. Presumably I'll not need to do this again for the life of this truck, but if so I'll saw the f'ers off and buy new (~$45 ea OEM, ~$10 ea aftermarket).

 

Only $10 aftermarket? Maybe I'll buy some. I lost both of mine somewhere in the last 50-100K miles or so.

 

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1077759&cc=1426935&pt=10353

I meant the u-bolt...the OEM bump stops are $34 ea

https://parts.mcgeorgetoyota.com/oem-parts/toyota-bumper-bumper-sub-assembly-4830604010

 

Well these came quick… now for calipers, parking brake hardware, and I’ll probably get a new wheel bearing… just because I can’t bring myself to cut the backing plate thats 2 years old..


I will also likely do the SOS sequoia master setup. T100 seems nice, but the sequoia booster was made for 4 wheel disc, and I will be doing the 14WA eventually too. Truck should stop VERY well towing

 

Convert to duallie?