Binding in rear end when warmed up

I did take it out to a parking lot and do figure 8s to try and loosen up the LS? That's what he asked me to try. Was still making the noise afterwards tho.

 

Update on the binding issue I'm having. Had my mechanic take a ride with me when the truck was making the noise in the rear end. He thinks it sounds like the LSD clutches are binding. Causing the chatter. It primarily does it when turning. He suggested adding another 4 ounces of additive to the diff. What do u think? He said it's worth a try. Have to research whats recommended for this truck. Otherwise he said they'll have to pull it apart and try to see what's going on.

 

I did drive it around in a parking lot doing figure 8s. Didn't seem to help loosen up the LS. Still binding.

 

Curious to know why my manual mentions nothing about using an additive in the rear diff.

 

A lot of modern gear oils have the additive already in them. The additive is necessary for LSD but won't hurt a diff without LS either. Before spending big money it would be really easy to do a drain and fill on the diff and fill with proper fluid. If you can change your own engine oil you can change the diff oil. Just remove fill plug first then remove drain plug and then fill back up till starts coming out fill hole. Just find an oil that states it has LSD additive in it.

 

Thats because theres no load on it.

Always remember the K.I.S.S. method. Start with the low hanging fruit, drop your drive shaft and check the carrier bearing. If it feels rough when spinning by hand then replace it.
While the DS is off, jack the rear up and rotate the pinion by hand, feel rough at all ? Any movement at all, up/down/left or right ? Shouldn't be.
Check your wheel bearings next, pull the axle shafts and replace the bearings and seals. They are cheap and you're already there.
Failing all of that, open the diff and rebuild it. Since you've gone that far, its silly to not replace bearings and seals. They are cheap in the grand scheme of things.

Good luck !

 

Wow, your assuming I can do all that myself! Sounds easy but I'm not a mechanic and I done have neumatic impact wrenches.

 

I'll change out the diff fluid and see what happens.

 

It may make mention of using an LSD compatible fluid.

You can buy a bottle of friction modifier at the parts store and dump it in. Then go do figure 8's for 15 minutes.

FYI if you had mentioned this was primarily on turns earlier it would have been much quicker for us to help diagnose.

 

No Sir, you made that clear when you said you left a wheel on the ground and put the other side on a jackstand and then started your truck. No bueno compadre !

I simply gave you a flow chart to follow to figure out your problem and thats assuming that the noise is coming from where you think it is. Doing figure 8's in a parking lot doesn't do anything but waste your time and gas.

Just so you know, you can do all of that with nothing but hand tools. Its also a great way to learn, diagnostics is a money maker. Too many people are just parts changers, don't be a parts changer and don't let your mechanic be one either.

You can totally figure this out. Where do you live ? If you're close I'd totally help you out

 

Haha, parts changers are probably great dart players! Just throw darts and hope u hit the bullseye! I've done starters, and such, but nothing this major. I live in wisconsin. Not to far from Milwaukee. I'm changing the diff fluid tonight. We'll see if that makes a difference 1st. Don't get me wrong, I greatly appreciate your flow chart. I do have access to some good tools, have a good relationship with the maintenance guy at work. Just have to buy him beer and doughnuts when he helps me out welding something or loaning me tools!

 

What gear oil weight are you running? Don't the later trucks (04-06) call for 75w140 while the older trucks call for 75w90 or 80w90?

 

75w_90

 

There were no metal pieces on the magnet whatsoever. Lube was black after only 2 yrs, 15000 miles.

 

Update, I changed out my diff oil to Lucas Oil severe gear 75 w 90. I towed my trailer loaded with a heavy brush hog and ATV 2 hours up and back to my cabin this wknd. No binding whatsoever! Now I need to find out what my mechanic put in there when he changed it only 15000 miles ago!

 

Glad the issue is resolved!

 

It's amazing what fresh quality fluids do for moving parts. Bravo.

 

Did you change it to Lucas or amsoil?

 

Sorry, correction, Amsoil.

 

So I stopped at my mechanic and told him I was able to get rid of the binding problem simply by changing out the fluid to the Amsoil lube. I told him that NAPA told me I didn't need any additive for a LS diff with the Amsoil severe gear lube. He disagreed. He said I should have used an additional additive. What do u guys think? I towed my trailer for over 4 hrs and never felt the binding. The mechanic said he used the exact same Amsoil product but added the additive.

 

If your diff is no longer clunking/clicking and binding... then don't bother.

Could be the additive he used was too much if he used the same fluid.

 

Started the process of rust proofing the rear diff. How many coats of this do you guys think I should apply? I see why you said wear gloves!

 

I am using the POR-15

 

The instructions should've clearly stated if you intend to do a 2nd coat, you need to do so while the 1st coat is still tacky. Here's the application info: https://qr.por15.com/QR-assets/downloads/POR15/POR15ApplicationInfo.pdf

I recommend to read all the questions in their FAQ before using. https://por15.com/pages/faqs