What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

what fluid are you running back there? I assume the fluid is within mileage and not overdue to be changed?

Also, looking to order 885 OME coils for up front. Reading that I'll have to change my top hats to a Tacoma based one? Anyone know? I currently have aftermarket KYB tophats on my 5100s with factory springs

 

Taco hats won’t work. Use the tundra hats with energy suspension isolators. That’s what I did



fluid is less than 10k miles old. Lucas stuff. No chatter or anything. Both wheels work properly if you do a burnski (I did it to test the LSD in the shop on the stupid slick floor)

I’m just at a loss ok this vin that comes and goes

 

I don't see that Energy sells them for my truck...

edit: NM, think I found a different set on 1stgenoffroad

Tried a remount/balance on the wheels? No bent rim or anything?

 

Looks like we’ve got a prototype @des2mtn yours is on the truck now being mocked up!
Later tonight I will transfer the mounting holes on the compressor base, drill holes and do a final mock up hopefully!

 

Old wheels and tires had vibe, new do, spare set do. Hell I friend brand new take offs. Still shake. Not wheel balance. Loaded trailer being pulled? No vibes. I really think it’s the slip yoke

 

Where does this guy go? I am planning for one (down the line, once important stuff is done.)

 

finally!

 

@empty_lord hows the airaid pipe?

 

Fine. No real massive change in intake note. Exhaust still drastically tops it. Engine bay looks way nicer though

 

Yes. Here are the key points I would share with you.

• One manufacturer (Gentex) literally makes 90%+ of all OEM mirrors, the only 'aha' or gotcha is sometimes the LCD portion and the buttons are amber, green, white, blue or other colors, so read your seller note or know exactly what car it's coming from so you know what you're getting. If seller doesn't specify, I recommend to avoid that seller, they probably don't do this often or haven't tested it's a working pull.
• Note none of the mirrors seem to have manuf'er branding on them, just 'Gentex', so in theory it shouldn't matter if you get one from a Nissan, a Honda, or whatever brand, as long as the LED colors match and it has the features you want. Ideally, buy one that has the wire harness 'just in case'
• Many reputable sellers on fleabay will sell a full kit: The mirror, a re-pinned harness that's labeled for 12V constant, with the plastic tunnel that spans between the headliner and windshield mount to cover the cabling... all you need to do is splice things in and you're good.
• If you choose to go with a Gentex mirror, virtually every one I've seen fits on a standard windshield mount, so you shouldn't need to upgrade that.
• Many of the Double Cab trucks already have the wiring in place with the correct connector to plug-and-play, it's hidden underneath the temperature console (look at the pics in THIS REPLY).
• Toyota even sells an OEM kit for the wiring but it's basically just a few wires with a spade connector with instructions. It looks like an aftermarket kit you'd get on A-Zon's website, but it has some instructions that are skimpy. I really wish I'd have just skipped this - they expect you to tap into (the fuse panel?) to get power. I can post pics if you're interested.
• Temperature WILL NOT WORK unless your truck supports temperature sensing already and has a temp sensor module, which is typically mounted around the radiator somewhere I think, driver side of grille. Toyota P/N I have written down: 88790-22131
• Careful when removing your old mirror from the mount, after years of baking on, some people manage to rip the mount off, the adhesive+glass gives way before the metal-to-metal contact with the windshield mount does, then you're buying a new windshield
• There are a lot of different models to choose from, with integrated features like: Compass, temperature, auto-dim, Homelink remote
• If you have one of the new 'Encrypted' Homelink door openers, A lot of the mirrors made more than 5-6 years ago (if not even more recent) won't work with your door; however, most door manuf'ers like Chamberlain, Liftmaster etc. sell kits called the Homelink RPTR which allow you to use old-style remotes and Homelink mirrors with the new encrypted openers.
• Compatibility guides, if helpful: https://homelink.com/compatible
• Here is the guy I ordered mine from, seller myparts on fleabay. Great transaction. Clearly marked 'Gentex Auto Dimming Homelink And Hidden Blue Compass Mirror' in the auction. Oh, and you can get the compass that's hidden behind the mirror, which is what I got. Others have a transparent window with the compass behind it

If I think of anything else, I'll post it here. But generally speaking, that's what a few hours of research netted me and I'm happy to save others the legwork.

 

This will mount above the abs chingaso on the passenger side

 

The 3M kit is pretty solid, and I like their clearcoat wipes. They really make it easy. Plus, the 2" or 3" sanding disks they give work with any hook-and-loop drill-mount sanding pad, so you can go on A-Zon or other places, buy the correct diameter hook-and-loop shank pad and save yourself assloads of time.

The big mistake I made the 1st time I did my FIL's housings on his 2012 CRV a some time ago was not using a clearcoat After 4-5 months, hazy again already, FL sun really cooked and re-oxidized them quick not having a UV-protecting clear paint over them. So I redid his with the 3M kit the 2nd time around, and I touch up the clearcoatevery time he's in town by car, about once every 18 months. They typically are just getting to the point they need a quick hit of wet-sand 3000 grit and another topcoat. You can buy the 3m wipes for $4/ea both online and at some local auto parts stores, I know Advance Auto has them. You can buy 3M's mini-kit too, for $11-12, pretty frugal choice, comes with 2 clearcoat wipes and sanding pads.

If you really, really want like-OEM finish, do multiple coats of clear, allowing sufficient dry time between, then let cure for a week or two. Then follow-up as you would with any clearcoated panel, cutting compound and polish.

I'm not a Meguiar's fanboi, but their yearly spray-on clearcoat treatment is a good product. Good for maintenance. Once you sand the 1st time, it's a matter of upkeep from there on out. Using the Meguiar's headlight protector spray (it's glorified clearcoat), you can delay the inevitable oxidization haze from ever starting. Sucks having to tape your panels around the housing every time you spray, but ... it's a 1x per year thing, so ...

Sorry if you already knew any of this. Again, just trying to save some legwork.

 

@shifty` spot on. When I did my retrofit I wanted to wrap them with lamin x but read some mixed results when used with HID. If I had known back then to paint them with this clear stuff I would have done it, but its all good. I don't mind the short task once a year if thats what this becomes.

 

You completely rule, thank you so much. I'm game to give it a try. I have zero wires right now so happy to throw some $ and see if it sticks. Mostly want the garage remotes for that clean look. I did custom buttons in the Tacoma b/c the overhead switch panel was pretty straightforward but I think if I shove extra switches in the Tundra it'll be a Switch-Pros command module in the sunglasses holder thingy.

 

I will say, this is the other product I was referencing. It's a little bit easier because it's a spray on versus wipe-on. Re-coat once per year under normal driving conditions. You can multi-coat. Proper prep is the ticket. If I'd already sanded mine down and treated, I'd stick with my 3k-grit wet and fully clean before applying but ... at $10/can, and one can lasting multiple treatments, this is a hell of a lot better than dropping $225-$300/ea on OEM replacements.

 

@shifty` yup that is what the new kits come with.

 

The worst part, in my opinion, is getting the wiring run done. Most of these want a constant 12v, ground, and an ACC/ON 12v and (for auto-dim) a reverse wire hookup (read on for more info on why). If I understood correctly, the constant power was a low-drain power tap to save customized settings and retain compass orientation. The IGN/ACC/ON 12v is for powering everything else when the car is on. The harness that 'myparts' seller I linked gave me also includes a 'reverse wire hookup' because I guess some of these eve come with a built-in LCD for reverse camera, but I believe the primary function on my mirror is to disengage the auto-dim feature when you're backing up.

First, 'myparts' accessories. This was specific for the mirror I bought, $45 and sourced from a Honda I think. The base mount was a match, so I went for it. The seller was nice enough to dig the pinout and label each wire for what was expected. I already installed the mirror b/c my old mirror glass was wavy-gravy and the new one was much crisper. Just haven't wired it yet, was trying to figure out where to tap power from.




And here's the $30 Toyota OEM kit for the 2004-2006 Tundra Double Cab, specifically, P/N PT374-34040-WH. Literally, this is it. BUT DO NOTE! Double Cab owners! You may already have the correct wiring in place, look at the pics in THIS REPLY as to where to find them!

Toyota gives you some good stuff with that kit, but I presume that 6-pin flat/wide plastic molex connector only fits (specifically) the 04-06 Tundra DC rearview mirror, which I think is only auto-dimming, no compass, no rear-view camera option, no Homelink, which therefore wouldn't work for me - although there's also plug-n-play adapters to convert that 6-pin flat connector to a more modern mirror.

Bare-minimum I needed auto-dim and Homelink, and I figured if I was doing this anyway, I may as well get one with a built-in compass, I've found that feature super-handy over the years while offroad and deep in the thick. I considered looking to see if the Sequoia or 4Runner may've had a good mirror option using the Toyota connector here, but the $45 deal on the mirror I got was too good to pass up, OEM Toyota mirrors were starting around $250 and upwards of $600 for the most spendy one I found.

 

Pulled the trigger on some Bilstein 4600 shocks 1/2 hour ago from Autoanything.com for $320 total with shipping.

Wanted to buy from 4 wheel parts since no restocking fee, but nothing on the Bilstein website stated they were an authorized dealer.

Damn Germans can't even make a simple alphabetical list of authorized retailers. They want you to enter a zip code instead, so I spent 1 hour just searching around for authorized sellers!

At least I made the sale on our tax free weekend.

 

I have the exact same problem as you. It's definitely my driveshaft and I'm experiencing the same vibes. I went to a one piece that vibrated like hell at 70mph and I got a new bigger aluminum one that vibes at 90+ I can't find what the cause is on mine and I'm gonna pull my hair out if I can't ever figure it out.

When my 05 was new it threw a weight on the factory driveshaft while it was still under warranty. You ever manage to feel up your shaft and see if it chunked a weight by chance? That's my only other suggestion.

 

It must be the week of headlight restorations. I just did a Chris fix sand down on mine. They were peeling from my previous failed attempt at a restoration and turning a little yellow.

I followed the chrisfix vid and the only difference in what I did was the paint I used. This is supposed to be the best stuff for headlights from what I read. It sprayed on really nice too.

I'll throw the lights back on the rig in the morning after they had the night to cook in my garage.

 

did you use the airfilter it came with?

 

I haven’t noticed it. But once I get the next 2 cars I’m taking the driveshaft off and giving it to a driveline shop for them to figure if the shafts the issue or jot

 

No, I prefer the stock box. IAT is better. The larger area from a cone filter isn’t needed unless your boosted. The stock box flows more than enough for stock n/a

 

I bought one of these Gentex mirrors for my Miata as I wanted the compass, the auto-dim feature and the garage door openers. Miata does not come with any of those. Had good luck off Ebay and everything worked as it should. Only different thing I did was used switched power instead of constant for the garage and the auto dim feature. I didn't want power to the garage door opener all the time if the car was outside and the top down, then anyone could walk in. Works fine the way I installed it. Do want another one for the Tundra, but already have the compass, temp and GDO, so only need the auto dim feature. I think you'll find the gentex to be larger than the stock mirror also. My Tundra mirror seems really wimpy.

 

Well prototype number one failed the chip test!
I laid the compressor on the mount and went for a test close of the hood, felt something binding. Went inside to get play dough from the kids but I couldn’t find any, while searching the table I found sun chips……..win, win…….win!
So I laid some chips down and shut the hood, crunch!
The wiper hose is what’s pinching near the hood hinge.
Tomorrow I’ll chop all my feet off at the same level, bring it back to the truck and weld the feet back on and re test!

 

This ^^

Seriously. My OEM no-frills mirror was horrible. Blurry. Wavy. Tiny. To the point, I couldn't clearly read the front license plate of a vehicle 2 car lengths behind me. I assume it was better when new and just degraded over time (right?) but man, was it craptastic.

Even if someone only does what I've done so far, and just buy a newer Gentex mirror but don't wire it, you're already ahead. The Gentex mirror I got is at least 25% larger, crisp and clear as can be, no waves or blurriness whatsoever. Great upgrade. Can't wait til I get off my ass and figure out where to wire it to.

 

Good luck carrying it with those bloody stumps!

 

All these rearview mirror upgrades & nobody is opting to add dash(mirror) cam?

 

Oh, I thought the pipe came with a replacement filter for the stock box but maybe I was wrong.


in the picture it shows an additional filter

 

Mines a CAI kit. The MIT like that is not available for the 05-06 anymore