Alignment issues after coach builder kit installation

I have had constant issues getting my truck aligned since installing the coach builder kit (5100 top setting, two shims in driver side 1 on passenger, +3 shackles) I was told I would need aftermarket UCAs, so I had camburgs installed this weekend and the shop still cannot get the truck aligned properly. The tech claims he has no adjustment left on the left side caster, and the truck pulls to the right. This is also the second shop that has told me this. What gives here? The two shops I am dealing with are dependable, and has worked on all of my vehicles. I have called coachbuilder and left messages but have not received a call back as of yet.

 

Are u over 2.5 in in the front lift

 

I just put the coach build tie rod there bad ass alignment d
Guy was happy too

 

right at 3 with the 5100 on top setting and shims

 

Yeah weird shit happens after 2.5 in lift on coils

 

Is it 2wd?

 

It’s 4wd

 

Caster is the inclination off wheel hub meant for steering wheel to come back to center after turning is caster different side to side

 

The steering wheel is canted to the right, and the truck pulls to the right.

 

Toe issue they might need more angle on the tie rods and more adjustment stock stuff can only go so far

 

Big difference

 

What is your center of hub to fender measurement on each side?

Im familiar with yotas but just got a tundra and have been researching this for my own lift, and am curious.

If I recall, stock height is just below 22”, the 5100’s at top should be at about 2.5” lift?, but two spacers asssuming they are the 1/4” tall for 1/2” lift, on the drivers side may put you at 3.5” lift, which may be too high?

I dont beleive you can exceed 25” on this measurement, from what I am gathering. ( im just learning )

Hope you get it figured out.

 

The rear axle is typically not centered with the body of the truck. Do your rear tires stick out more on the driver or passenger side?

 

Bump. Went to a 3rd alignment shop and got the same result. What are my options here? I’m about fed up with the run around and wasting money.

 

2 shims at the top notch is excessive. Those are lift shocks, they are not meant to have more lift installed.

how many total inches of lift did you get? 3.5? More? How much down travel do you have from ride height

 

The 2 shims on the driver side is to account for the sag in the suspension on the left side. I am going off of the recommendations from @coachbuilder for the lift. Apparently it does not work for this truck. I am willing to purchase a different lift if need be, I just don’t want to buy another setup if I am doomed to the same results. Front is lifted to a total of 3 inches, I am unsure of down travel.

 

If you put 1 shim on the pass side and 2 on the driver. That isn’t just compensation for the left lean….1 of those shims is straight lift

 

Usually caster is corrected by camburg arms. Have you verified that your 5100s were assembled correctly? Odd that no shop can figure the caster out. Pulling right sounds like a different problem though

 

Is caster within spec, just can’t get a good split, or won’t adjust within spec?
Got a printout?

 

Post some pics of your setup. Turn a wheel all the way to the side and take some good pics where we can see it all.

I always agree with @Hbjeff and this time is no different. First thing I would try is toss the spacer on the passenger side and toss one from the driver side. See where that takes you.

Check your tie rods out. Are they looking about the same, or is one showing way more thread than the other? I don't think caster is why your wheel isn't straight, that sounds like toe. Caster returns you to center but can't help if your toe is off.

Got pics of the alignment sheet by chance? I know I'm asking for a lot but were shooting in the dark without it.

 

Gentlemen,

This is the most up to date specs. Like I posted earlier. If this setup doesn’t work I will gladly move to a different lift option. I use my truck for hunting every year. And I refuse to have a lift that eats tires up traveling east to west and on mountain roads.

 

You have plenty of caster. I’m assuming the tech is telling you that he cannot bring it down to be in spec? The Camburg UCA has caster built into them, which is why the caster numbers are so high. The higher caster should make the steering less loose feeling. The pulling is most likely a different issue. Is your steering wheel centered? Try reinstalling the stock arms and see what happens.

 

I would use one shim on the driver's side and remove the passenger side shims. Then set the bilstein s to 1.9"

 

I know you said you bought camburg ucas but the spc uca will give you much better alignment with the adjustable star plate at the ball joint.

 

Did you have excessive caster before the Camburg arms were installed? IIRC, UCAs will increase caster lost by lifting. Also, doesnt the XSP have 275/55R20 and not 255/70R18?

 

Yes I did have excessive caster before. Hence my reasoning for having the UCA installed. Which I am seeing now was probably a mistake. And yes my XSP does have 275/55R20. Would tire size error in the alignment machine cause this error?

 

It may have a slight effect but probably not the solution. I’ve done hundreds of alignments and, especially with trucks, there are specific selections for different tire sizes and sub models. You won’t be able to get caster down with the Camburgs on, so maybe try switching back to the factory. Good news is you should be able to sell them and recoup some $ if you can’t send them back. Also ask them to please double check they are entering vehicle info precisely. I always tried to put in .5-1.0 degree more caster on the right side to compensate for pull.

 

I appreciate the help. After dealing with this PITA my plan is to pull all of this crap and go with a real lift and sell the parts.

 

Too much caster is better than too little. Without the uca you wouldn’t have enough

 

Way too much caster. You want to be closer to 4