What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Hey, don’t give up! What I did was super easy, just took me a while because I don’t have a teacher. But I figured it out mostly by looking at it. I’m the least knowledgeable person on here, and this is totally doable!

The part I have trouble getting my head around is what you’ll need to do to get that drive train back in— that’s harder than changing the transfer case seal.

I’m sure you know, there are two transfer case seals (obviously), one to the front drivetrain (that I replaced), and one to the back drivetrain (haven’t yet). The seals are different. Unlike most humans, I suck at visual learning, and was afraid I had the diagram reversed, so I bought both seals. Good thing because, sure enough, I read the diagram wrong, and put the wrong one in first. It was immediately clear to me because it didn’t fit. The other was a perfect fit. Hang on, I’ll try to find the diagram, so you have the part number for the seal and nut.

 

Maybe I missed it. Are you doing the rear seal (I don’t have experience) or the front seal (I did it; it’s easy)?

For the front transfer case seal, you do NOT need to remove anything, but disconnect the drive train and shove it out of the way. It needs to be secured out of the way. Then remove a staked nut, replace the seal, put a new nut or the same nut back on, stake that nut. Reattach the driveshaft. If you have standard male strength, this is an easy job. I struggled because swinging a hammer overhead in the limited space between the nut and the frame crossmember was not easy for me— different, less studly muscles . My truck has a bit of lift, and I didn’t jack it up.

 

I think we are talking about different things cause there isn’t a gasket for the seal I’m wanting to replace. It’s this tube thing…


I need to replace this seal and to do so I need to remove the entire front(the side infront of me lol, where driveshaft connects to transfer case) to change the red seal.

 

Oh, yeah. That’s different than anything I’ve tried. Like a job I’d want to follow PHM in doing. Remind me, where are you? Any one on here near you, that you could get a project buddy?

 

Im in LA, Cali. I asked a couple mechanic friends and it sounds like a big job. I wouldn’t want to put anyone through all that. It’s not leaking too much, I think I’ll be fine.

Appreciate ya Sunny!

 

Maybe the Manglers are down for a road trip? Cali or bust!

 

If its something that can wait a month I'm always down to help break stuff. Probably 45 minutes away in Moorpark.

 

That should be filmed and sold to Netflix.

 

Haha I was thinking a band name, but I like your thinking; go big or go home!

 

@Darkness check out Slobbys World, on Netflix………I’m not trying to brag about this kind of rediculousness, but I’ve had multiple interactions with the guy outside of his legit business……..

He has a shoe shop next door too…..

 

Well, keep an eye on it. If it gets worse, I may have to make the drive to handle photos and tools while you, me, @15whtrd, and @JDL17CM4x4 and @Darkness figure out how to fix it. Lol! These are the ablest guys I know in the general LA region. You’ll have to feed and hydrate us: it’ll take a lot of gas $ to get you your driveway.

 

Thanks for coming around here more sunnie. I always like reading your posts because you seem like a wealth of 1st gen info! are you going to T2S?

 

It will have to wait, filling the transfer case with oil right now. If ur up for, I’m up for it bud. BBQ n Beers on me! You prefer, Ribeye, Tbone, or would you like something different?… Armenian Kabob possibly? I mean, I owe you all a few BBQs at this point I think lol. I look forward to the day I can show you all my appreciation. Bunch of random strangers on the internet always ready to help. Freaking amazing I tell you, AMAZING!

 

I thought so! But I’m having trouble with my plan A to stay with my son who will be in school. Damn Covid, year 2. If I can come up with a plan B, I’ll make it!

 

And thanks! But I mostly know stuff I learned on here, from y’all!

 

Stop being so awesome! With or without helping me with the transfer case, the day will come when we finally get together. I look forward to “feeding and hydrating” you all!

 

Who are the Manglers? The only mangler I know of is Erik @FirstGenVol and we’re almost sure we are lost long brothers cause I’ve mangled almost every repair lol

 

Oh I’m one step closer to sliders. Friend can help weld, he said we can bend too but it would be difficult. He mainly builds custom electric bikes with monster engines.

Any tips on bending strong metal? Man I wish I bought the material last year, freakin inflation is a …. Dude told me prices have risen 3-4 times from last year. Nuts!

 

Well physically I mean. Grab the shaft before and then the slip, and there’s play in the splines. Take off I get 0 vibes. It’s 70-80 I get a nasty shake


Towing the shake is gone. Probably because the ass end is down. Angles look good according to my gauges

 

Well gentlemen, the original radiator lasted 153k miles. Very similar situation to a recent poster from July. Sat in the bank parking lot for 20 minutes with AC on after pulling an empty trailer around, merged onto Highway and there she goes.
I’m going to be replacing radiator and thermostat with OEM at first light. Read something about fan clutch too is it crucial/critical to the enduring longevity of the system? Should I have had the stealer do that when they did timing belt and water pump last month? As soon as I finish replacing radiator and thermostat I’ll be doing a drain and fill to check to make sure transmission fluid wasn’t contaminated. If not drain and fill, if so proceed with drain2 fill2 until I have clean red trans from the pump. Does all of this sound about right?

 

If you’re getting a shake at those speeds you may have a bad Ujoint but also may be your yoke is far out from the shaft. With load there’s less play in the driveshaft(less play in Ujoint) and the yoke will be further in on the shaft so could be that as well. Where does your yoke sit when parked/no load in rear? Take a pic, I’m curious to see.

 

Mine lasted about 180k miles. Can’t complain about that! I’m no expert, if anything the last person to take advice from but I’m fairly sure you should change the fan clutch if your stealer didn’t change it with timing belt.

 

Yeah Steel has gone nuts for sure. You are gonna need a bender. And not a HF Pipe Bender a Tubing bender. What size is it?

 

I’ll grab one tomorrow. I did the u joints last year with new spicers.

 

Timing belt, cam seals, crank seal, valve cover seals done. Lowered my trans pan today. Cleared out my pink milkshake sludge. Changed the filter.
Found aluminum metal shavings in the pan and a rather large aluminum chunk... it looks like part of the case wear a clutch dog sits... The truck moved before. We'll see after I put clean fluid in tomorrow.

 

1 3/4” .120 thick. I pretty much copied the known suppliers of rock sliders for our trucks.

 

I had driveshaft issues for a while, not gonna say what happened again so I don’t upset firstgenvol but drove me nuts for a long time so I researched extensively. Send a pic when you can.

from my understanding, and it may be different for your year but did you get the original ujoints that were in the driveshaft? Or a different version from the same manufacturer? Not saying this could be it, just curious.

 

Pink Sludge, aluminum chucks and good old Toyo was chugging along just fine. Love it