2022 Tundra

Should come out to Alberta to buy vehicles, save that 8% of provincial tax. Would likely have to register it in Alberta first (roughly $100, can do it with a license from another province) but then transfer the registration. No need for Out-of-Province inspections on newer vehicles. Plus you'd get a ~3400km road trip right out of the gate on the new vehicle.

 

I don't miss living in Missouri. Lived there as a kid, went to college there, got married, recalled to active duty and could only stand it for about two years after getting back from Iraq. Don't miss that place at all.

 

Recommend a new thread for sales tax conversation. Very much enjoying the 2022 speculation talks.

 

Don’t worry, I know they gonna make up some new taxes for the 2022 tundra

 

I heard the iForce Max was just a rebadged Wärtsilä RTA96-C

 

That confirms two things: we are getting a diesel and there will be a HUGE payload increase!

 

I could try, but I've been out of the car business for a long time now. I used to sell Toyota, Lexus, and BMW. Mostly Toyota and BMW. I don't know what kind of margins, dealer hold back, dealer cash (incentives for the dealer) etc are prevalent these days.

Current market is such a crap shoot, that my best advice to all of you is to:

1.) Continue to do maintenance on your reliable durable Toyota Tundra and be thankful you are not driving something made in Germany that is about to go out of warranty. Having a reliable vehicle that you don't have to replace is a good spot to be in.

2.) Wait a year or two if you can until supply catches back up with demand, or better yet exceeds demand.

Aside from that under more normal circumstances my advice on negotiating a car deal for a "normal" car or truck is pretty similar to what you will read anywhere else. If you're buying something hot on the market, rare, limited in production etc all bets are off and you are going to take it in the shorts. Most of us are not buying Porsche 911 GT3 RS's, limited production Ferrari's and stuff like that though, so I am not going to even try to give advice on those because I have no experience from the selling side of the house on that stuff.

So if you have followed steps 1 & 2 if possible, the rest is pretty strait forward:

3.) Establish a realistic budget, and a realistic strategy for how you plan to pay for your car or truck. Go talk to your bank or credit union and see what you can get for financing if you plan to finance. Once you have that APR you can easily figure out no shit monthly payments on an amortization calculator, bookmark that amortization calculator you'll need it later at the dealer. Call your insurance company and get a quote for full coverage on what you are considering. Figure out your annual average mileage and calculate your fuel costs per month, week or whatever if you want to.

4.) Do your homework on what you want or need on the car or truck at a minimum, and stick to that ; don't let them talk you into a truck that doesn't meet your needs just because it's in stock.

5.) If you are going to get up-sold to a higher trim, bigger truck etc I highly suggest sleeping on that decision unless it's not much more money or you discover it's necessary to meet your wants or needs. Again don't accept a car or truck that is way more expensive than your budget just because it's in stock, unless they are coming down to within your budget.

6.) Decide on a vehicle, we'll assume it is a new Tundra, and begin negotiating. Try to keep it light hearted and friendly, you'll have more fun, and the sales person and their sales manager will be more likely to see things your way if you aren't trying to kick their dicks in. On the other hand if you get a bad feeling about them and they seem shady don't be afraid to walk away. Keep the keys to your car or truck you came to the dealer in, don't even bother talking trade in at this point even if you plan to.

7.) Focus like a laser beam on the price you are paying for the vehicle. Ignore all the other shit. Monthly payment, lease payment = meaningless for the purposes of negotiations. They will want to negotiate payment price, you do not want to do this. It is standard practice in most dealers to "pack the payment" when they are negotiating a purchase agreement. They do this for a few reasons, for one some of them won't run your credit right away so they give their finance guy room on the back end of the deal to secure financing within the payment you agree to. The other reason if you turn out to have excellent credit and they can get a low APR for you is that now the back end finance guy has all sorts of room within that payment you have in your head to add more back end products to the deal and make the dealership money. Lots more money, often more gross profit than they make on the car or truck. If you can't arrive at an acceptable purchase price thank them for their time and leave.

8.) Now most of you will in fact be buying a truck concerned about your monthly payment, and that is fine, there is nothing wrong with that. Remember I told you to bookmark that amortization calculator on your smart phone? I also told you to go check with your credit union or bank about an interest rate for an auto loan? Here is where that comes in handy during negotiations, and allows you to see how ethical or not very ethical the salesman and sales manager are. As they throw around payments tying to stick you on one, plug in the sale price into your amortization calculator with the APR you know you can get and see if they're packing your payment and how much. You can also of course see what your payment will actually be so you don't rely on them to tell you. If they are clearly packing it, and they have run your credit it's probably time to walk... no point in dealing with sleaze balls who know you can get a good rate and just want to take you for a ride. This is where having no need to trade in and not giving them your keys is really handy, you just get up thank them for their time and leave. Nothing they can do to impede or pressure you.

9.) If they pass step 8 and are not scumbags, and you reach an acceptable purchase price now is when you mention that you might be interested in trading in your current vehicle. We want to do this because it takes away an area for them to pack profit by showing you more for your trade when they have dealer cash or dealer hold back to make things work when they are not in fact giving you more for the trade. The used car manager for example will say he'll give "$Xx,xxx.00" for your trade in, and the new car side will run with that and just use dealer cash, dealer hold back, manufacturer spiffs etc to "give you more" on your trade while not lowering the price of what you are buying. You want to make them give you this concession up front on the car or truck you are purchasing. Once you introduce the trade, negotiate the trade in value. You have your homework done hopefully so you have a realistic idea of what it is worth. If you have a CarMax in your area and the dealer won't give you what it's worth pull the trade and sell it to CarMax. Hell go get an offer from CarMax beforehand, and use that as leverage. Again don't be hesitant to thank them for their time and tell them you can't agree to those terms today, and then leave.

10.) You may go through steps 6-9 several times before finding a dealer willing to work with you and meet your terms. This is where not really needing a new car or truck works to your advantage. If you show up in a hooptie that may or may not last another month you have to get a new car or truck. Don't be in that position.

11.) Once you do arrive at acceptable terms for a purchase agreement be very careful in the finance office to stick to your guns on interest rates if they want to try to beat your bank or credit union's rate, and offer other products. Some might be worthwhile, others are not. Paint protection, glass etching and crap like that are just bullshit avoid them. Some extended warranty coverages can be quite good if they are offered by the manufacturer, aftermarket warranties are horse shit 90% of the time.

Good luck.

 

I thought it was an impulse engine from the USS Enterprise.

 

Problem with those Starship impulse engines is you have to run them at really high RPM before you achieve the maximum torque. Better suited for cars. Give me NA V8 in a truck.

 

Confirms a couple of other things too, 1. Yes it can tow it, doesn't matter what you are asking about... it can tow it. 2. Yes it is over 80" wide so those marker lights are not just for show.

 

Toyota needs to give me specs. I've spent too much time on ih8mud and I'm getting real tempted to trade my tundra for a 12-13ish lx.
The equity on my tundra would only leave me paying a little cash to have no payment and I could build a badass trail rig.

 

Don't they need dilithium crystals or sumtin?

 

You in some kind of witness protection program now?

 

Fuel economy might be a let down though.

 

Need to calculate in barrels per mile. (or per 100KM)

 

Honestly - I would, if I can trade my lightly used 2021 Pro for a 2022 AND CASH my way.

Straight up - probably not for a while.

Definitely not giving cash AND my mildly modded truck for a stock 2022.

By 2024 I might be bored and tempted by all the fancy upgrades - but possible my not. Other than mpg - what am I gaining that mods can’t give me.

Bought my 2021 on June 1st - just put my first 14 gallons of ethanol free in in yesterday at 3.68 a gallon - not cheap and I could conceivably cut that to 10 gallons with a more fuel efficient truck - but saving $7 a month isn’t really enough to push me into an “upgrade”.

Maybe if I used it more and could save something like $15-20 - or if gas hits $8 a gallon….

 

Not a chance I'll run dilithium crystals after the Ram debacle. Slightest bump and they go out of alignment then you're in Ford limp mode.

 

Long bed?

 

And again, we go back to the subject of Klingon massagers

 

Klingons aren’t qualified to run massage companies.

 

I don't think we're talking about the same Klingons

 

Chip?

 

So far based on spy shots:
Crewmax 5’
Crewmax 6.5’
Doublecab 6.5’ (have only seen one in this config, see most recent spy shots on interstate)

 

Oh man, this thread is slowly killing me!

 

Understand and agree - unless I am offered something unforeseen - I wouldn’t.

Like I said - IF they came at me with a new truck AND an pile of cash for my used truck…it would be tempting at least. Too much unknown about the 2022 now to say definitely.

We can summarize it will have a more efficient V6, it will see an updated interior and might have a 6.5 bed on a CM. That’s one positive - one no difference and one negative to me (and the positive isn’t a huge +, the negative might be a bigger one or relatively minor…time will tell).

Interior I am happy with now - can’t see the refresh being a big deal. V6 - I’m not as passionate in my love of a V8 over the turbo 6 - but I do like the idea of them enough to take one over a 6 - all other things aside from MPG being equal. Obviously they will have us believe that the 6 is more powerful and greatly more efficient - wait and see.

Not all HP numbers or MPG in test equal “real world” results. You might “feel” the difference- but you may not either. It may be as simple as the 6 feeling a bit peppier - like a 8 with the pedal commander - not enough of a reason to get me to abandon the 8.

I’d like a 6’5 bed - but again - not enough to PAY for one - I can buy a small 6x8 trailer cheaply enough those few times I need more bed space for my needs. Others needs may very.

 

Is this the Double Cab pic you mentioned? I'm hoping you are right and we get a DC 6.5'. That almost looks like an 8' bed though.

 

It has been discussed elsewhere, but here it is again. I would like this....

https://gearjunkie.com/news/toyota-hilux-tacoma-diesel-hybrid-trucks-usa

 

Just a blog of a lot of speculations, a few facts, and predominately a bunch of irrelevant topics. So far, I like the lessons on math, taxes, and AWD.