Recent axle seal tips, hints, and prayers

Hi Guys,
I just finished doing rear axle seals in my 2006 DC. I relied on lots of the posts here so the procedure went pretty smoothly, but I still am disappointed in the design from Toyota that causes us so much grief. This is going to be a pretty long post, so for the younger TL/DR among us here are the take-a-ways:

1. Harbor Freight 20 ton press works but needs to be modified
2. If you don't have welding skills and a spare axle tube, buy the tool from Donald the Bonald. It works nicely.
3. Watch this posting youtube from Toyota Timmy. Lots of good info on here.
4. 5mm is not the magic distance for the retainer ring seal interface. More like 3mm.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R-c2x3F8DU4

To start. Harbor Freight 20 ton works well. I just bought a new one in July. Based on other youtube vids and Timmy's I believe Harbor Freight changed the dimensions of the frame and made it a few inches shorter. Because of this you will need to cut the crossmember bar from the frame and raise the frame on blocks in order to fit your axle to press off the retainer ring and ABS wheel.

This is a pic of the axle being 1/4 too long to fit in the press frame.


Same view zoomed out. Couple things to point out. I added the aluminum bracket to hold the jack in place. I know the springs are supposed to keep the jack squeezed to the top, but I wanted something a little more secure.
As to HF springs. Poor quality control. As you see in Timmy's video he is able to move the jack up and down to screw out/in the press ram. The springs i received from HF made this impossible. Each of these HF springs are about 120 pounds of force. I'm 200lb, my teen age son is 180. Both of us tried to push/hang from each side of the bottle to pull it down so my wife could unscrew it. No chance. We could only move it about 2 inches. So I had to buy lighter springs(not shown) from the hardware store. 8 inch x 1 inch by .120 wire rated at 50 pounds worked. Not perfect as the spring could not squeeze the ram all the way back when pressure was released, but at least we could make use of the ram screw which you will need to fit the axles.


Third pic of same. The hub sits on this cross-member iron which causes the problem in the above pic. I cut the cross-member off and mounted the angle iron feet on wood 4x4's.


Once the press was modified the Donald the Bonald tool worked as easily for me as Timmy's video.

My backing plates were rusted with holes so I purchased new from McGeorge Toyota along with bearings, brakes, and misc hardware. Reassembly of all components was straight forward. As Timmy mentioned, a 3 inch pvc hub was the perfect size to press the bearing into the backing plate cup. No need for the press. Stack the backing plate, then bearing, then pvc, then wood block and 2-3 taps with a 22oz hammer pushed it in.

Retaining rings:
Timmy mentions 5mm of polished axle being the setting for positive seal engagement. For me, it was 3mm. I pressed the first one on at 5mm and did a test fit.

This was the seal engagement that i got with 5mm of axle polish showing. It's the sharp little line at the top of the ring, right near the bevel. The line on the axle is where I moved the retainer and abs up to using the Donald tool. Money well spent let me tell you.


Same ring, better view of seal location.


5.5mm allen key





Once I moved to 3mm of polish this is the seal fit test. Seal erased half the black dry erase ink.



Same axle. Showing with the 3mm allen key as a guide.


Unlike Timmy, I did not use the press or Donald tool to install the rings. It's kind of a pain to set up and the retainer is not super hard to knock on with a pipe. Pipe needed is schedule 40 11/2 iron pipe. This pipe has a OD of 1.9, wall thickness of .145 which give ID of 1.9 -.145 -.145= 1.61. My axles were just under 1.59 so the pipe fit perfectly and seated against the full face of the retaining ring.
Maybe overkill, but I also put my heat gun set a medium on the abs and retaining ring for about 30 seconds each to expand them a little. Install was not a violent banging. My pipe was 28 inches and all I had to do was raise it about 4 inches and let it fall to move the rings.

This is a pic of the removed ring from the non leaking axle. I suspect this may have been factory installed. Truck has 170k miles. Professional Hand Model, notice suppleness of hands. I'm available for Instagram collaborations.




Better view.


Before I forget, seals. Seals were a bear for me to install. I believe the leaking axle had the seals replaced, possibly to pass inspection by the used car dealer as there were some slight gouges in the bore that I cleaned up with 600 then 1500 grit paper. But installing the seals was still a pain for me. Remove the abs sensor magnet as it sucks the seal to the top every time. Then I advise buying extra seals as the fit is tight and I didn't get it right the first try.

Final thoughts:
My dealer wanted $580 plus shop fees per axle so the $185 press, $110 tool, $50 per bearing is putting me way ahead money wise.

I read a thread discussing that gear oil my seep past the abs retaining ring if it is not well seated. I'm assuming these is no taper to the polished area of the axle, but if it seeps, not much I can do since driving the retainer further down compromises seal/retainer interface.

Some threads mention running the gear oil level slightly low, 1/2 inch below the fill hole as gear oil on our trucks is not needed to migrate up the tube to the bearing, but just lubes the ring and pinion. This seems like a good idea to minimize premature seal leakage. But then I was curious if the seals are intend to perform for over 100k miles, does the seal survive on just the thin layer of red and tacky that is smeared on the seal and ring at assembly?

This is a pic of the seal bore. When installed the rubber seal will sit just above the u-shaped cutout in the axle tube. I'm not sure if the 4 cutouts are for manufacturing purposes to align the outer portion with the axle tube (there is a huge weld seen from the outside). Or, if these cutouts are to allow some gear oil to migrate to the seal to keep it lubed and more importantly, cool, for millions of revolution of the axle shaft. Assuming 30 inch wheel, 670 revolutions per mile, x 100k miles. 67 million revolutions. That's a lot of friction.



I'm gonna keep my fluid level as instructed, just weeping out of the fill hole. I'll pull my drums in a few thousand miles and report back. Cheers.

 

I've done this job too. Great write-up and pics.
Interesting about the modifications you had to make to the press. I bet it's because you have a Double Cab. I have the same press from HF and had no issue with my axles fitting without removing the lower support... but mine is a Access Cab. And Timmy's in the video would be even shorter as he's doing axles from a 3rd Gen 4Runner.
Regarding the aluminum bracket you added. Does the cross member under the jack not have a plate welded to it that the jack bolts to, like this?


I don't know what your issue was installing the seals, but I found it helped to have a seal driver.
I improvised by taking a seal to Home Depot and poking around the plumbing section until I found something that would work.
This is the perfect size. It's a 2" barbed to theaded PVC adapter.

 

TV, you may be right that some models have longer/shorter axle shafts, i didn't think of that.

My press did not come with a base plate for the jack to sit on or attach to. Mine just sat there squeezed by the springs. This may explain why my springs are ridiculously overkill. HF saved money by omitting welding the plate.

In the video it seems like Timmy's ram is the same length as the axle splines, about 2 inches. Mine ram bar is 4.5 inches long.

 

Good write up. Additional points for the PHM mention and invitation…!

I saw you held that item awkwardly, in such a way as to hide your fingernails. Lol! I do the same. PHM legacy.

 

I had a friend from high school that played music, so did quite a few of my other friends; I would just chill and absorb. This one guy would never come and just “jam out” and it sorta bothered my other friends. It finally came out that he didn’t wanna “JO” because he wasn’t being paid……….

 

Hmmmn. You think @remington351 wants cash to show his cuticles?

or do you mean, that’s why we never got to see Hand Model nekid? I always figured that was some contractual obligation… like how @Marty McFly and I (his stunt double) don’t ever get photographed together….

 

Haha exactly, that’s why we never saw any cuticles from him. You gotta pay to see those paws!

you two never get photographed together………..because your the same person inside the matrix still……..

 

Everyone that’s seen us together knows. We are twins.

 

Interesting. I just measured mine and it’s 2 1/4”...
My ram...
On my press!

Here's a pic from under the beam that the jack sits on. Comparing it to yours, it appears your beam is not square stock -- there's a lip on the bottom. Or is that just a shadow from the photo/flash? Also, your beam looks wider. Mine's 1 9/16" x 2 3/8". Again, might just be an optical illusion from the photo.



It's been a a few years since I bought mine, but as I recall there was only one 20 ton shop press on display, but there were two models -- each with its own part number and its own envelope of slips to take up to the register. When you search their site, only one comes up.

Having the 4" ram was inconvenient for the axle job, but I could see it coming in handy in some applications -- it would give some nice reach.

 

I'm not a fan of those axle seals. Mine are still leaking. Looks like yours should be gtg. Awesome write up!

 

Hi BMF, I remember your prior thread discussing the bearing job and how your local shop pressed them in to far. That thread was one of the first where I learned the challenges of this particular repair. Are you saying that subsequent attempts to reset the ring seal interface have also failed?

 

TV, my crossbar is a piece of C channel 4 inches wide. Overall height of the side legs is 59 inches from bottom to top.

 

Yeah, I bought the tool thing and we tried to use it, but ultimately failed. Time, summer heat, exhaustion, and lack of understanding on how to use the tool lead to a sub-par install. It leaks pretty bad as I know have a coating of oil on everything in the rr wheel bay. Including the wheel bay itself.

 

I have not had to perform this job yet, so I can only offer the prayers. Looks like a real bitch. Like the front wheel bearings are gonna be. Only worse.

 

are you implying that I’m Danny DeVito LOL

 

Absolutely not.

Everyone knows you’re the star, and I’m your understudy!

 

Labor wise, it's not bad. It's just getting the MFers lined up to the 1/2 mm so they don't leak. And if you mess it up, you basically have to cut it all off and start over new.

Fronts are..... eh. Getting the spindle out isn't fun, and it's kind of a weird shape to get into the press.

 

i meant are you saying I’m short LOL. You know I’m like 6’5

 

I know you are, Ahhnold!

 

Quick update. Another poster is having trouble with his seals as well here.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/wheel-bearing-axle-seal-diff-vent-or-all-the-above.93150/

In his thread he included a pic which is interesting. Notice the difference in seal location between his access cab, and my double cab. The seal in double cabs is recessed in about 2 1/2 inches into the axle bore. I guess that's how Toyota widened the DC platform. I think this is why I was having trouble setting the seal. It was difficult to get it started flush into the bore and I ended up rolling the edge on a couple of them.

 

It looks like one has ABS and other does not.

 

Good eye. Are the axle housings deeper? Here's my 02:

 

+1

 

With the apparent OEM axle seal redesign moving the seal lip inward toward the 3rd member, is everyone having the best luck leaving the inner retainer in the OEM orientation or flipping it so bevel is toward the ABS ring as recommended per Timmy @19:30 and @22:41 in his video?

Thanks @remington351 for this great write up.

Notice you showing not flipping the inner retainer in the first post of this thread but needing to install only at about 3mm not 5mm, likely due to the redesign.

Looks like that wasn’t a problem without flipping and just installing further inward at 3mm?

But then no problem with the ABS ring alignment with sensor, being 2mm too far inward?

With OEM orientation and grease/sharpie testing to finalize placement, Timmy notes @ 24:07 a risk of installing the retainer too far outward and the retainer hitting the axle housing, and hence the suggested "flip" of the retainer to move more surface under the redesigned seal. Maybe that's not a concern.

The '03 4x4 v8 axle housing seals (90310-50006) and the retainers (42423-20010) appear to be the same part numbers (as well as the o-rings and c-clips) on the axle Timmy is working on (although the outer axle dust seals and bearings appear to be different part #s).

 

@remington351 I'm curious to know how your seals are doing? I bough a 2006 DC in the spring with a leaking rear left seal. At the time I was not aware of the axle seal nightmare. My 2002 AC has no leaks 195K miles and I've owned it over 7 years. The DC has 104k miles and it looks like the seal had been leaking for a while.

I had my mechanic replace the seal(s), brake hardware and shoes. The seal promptly leaked. He insists the bearing is good. Grabbing the wheel on the jack confirms no side to side play though there is slight in-and-out movement. this is the same on the non-drive side with no leaking and also had the seal replaced.

He then replaced the seal again. Then I drove the truck home and parked it and went away for three weeks. I came back and there seemed to be a trace of oil in the rim. After a couple of short drives, I pulled the wheel and drum and everything was coated in gear oil. I cleaned it all as best I could including the wheel which was still caked in old oil and dirt. I was convinced that the seal was no good and started talking to the dealer who is quoting 470 USD just to change the seal. But then.... no more oil.... diff was maybe an inch low so I put another quart in and pulled the drum again and it seems like no new oil. I brake cleaned it all and put it back and am continuing to drive it. I have some, probably false hope, that the whole assembly some how held enough gear oil to recoat everything and maybe the second seal will hold. I won't make any decisions but I fully expect this seal to fail again. Everyone on the forums insists the bearing gets flushed out, but both my mechanic and the service manager at the local Toyota dealer dismiss the possibility of axle seal failure leading to bearing failure. Then again my experience in life is that most people will think they know what they are talking about but are wrong at least half the time.

My understanding is that the seal change was in 2003 (as that is when the TSB came out) so if the seal is installed correctly the retainer should be good as a 2006 would have had the revised seal in from the factory. In any case, my mechanic seemed dismissive any time I brought up the issue of seal vs. retainer position.

Then this morning a gentleman asked me about my 2002 and told me how his 2005 went through 5 seals before he got fed up and sold it. Solving the seal issue is a real problem and now I am on the fence. Here in Canada I could buy a press and the DTB tool for about $700 USD but I am not convinced this will solve my issues. Has your seal held up?

 

Did you verify the $10 breather on top of the axle housing is functioning correctly? If not, pressure can't vent off, and your axle seals are the 1st place the fluid will blow by. This is pretty common knowledge, I'd be shocked if the mech missed it, but you never know.

In rust belt states, it's probably a good idea to replace that valve every few years, or at every fluid change, which should be every 30k miles or 15k miles if you tow. It's cheap insurance, considering the crazy cost and labour involved with doing anything to the rear axles.

There seems to be a wild inability of anyone to properly press the rear axle when doing bearings, they press too far or not far enough, and shit happens.

But yeah. You can install new seals all day long. If you neglect that one $10 USD part, you're fucking yourself.

 

I confirmed the breather was functioning when I replaced it with a new OEM one. I'm in the far north. Things do rust up here but not like the rust belt states and provinces. Alaska is our neighbour.

 

I'm about to do this job this weekend.


This thread got my anxiety from zero to "fuck should I buy more seals?"

 

I have no rear breather in, my retainers are pressed to exactly 5mm, and mine still leak. At this point I'm thinking my axles are bent or my axle housing is fucked.

 

did you do the grease test that the tool man did? He has so many vids involving the rear bearing. This one seems to be the most accurate as far as our trucks are concerned.

https://youtu.be/AVhSDnw2ugo?si=A4eLpc_OFraWcO3O


And this vid as well

https://youtu.be/uY8pljevOY4?si=3d21BwSeXZu3dDua

I'm gonna take a bagillion measurements and do some math when I pop the new retainer on. And even then I'll probably wind up doing the grease test just to make sure.

also, involving the HF press springs (I doubt OP will ever see this) but I'll probably stretch the springs out via loading the press and let it sit for a little while to soften the springs up.