Oil leak from rear differential bell housing/ center section

Noticed I'm leaking, fairly recently from bell housing side of rear differential.
What are the chances over filling rear diff (very minimally) when changing the fluid caused this? I filled it after drain to where it was level or just pouring out the drain.


Guessing this isn't a driveway fix for the new seal. Anyone every replaced this?

 

@empty_lord isn't this just sealed with FIPG? Seems like it shouldn't be that hard.

 

Mark the diff and driveshaft, unbolt the driveshaft, use Bungie cord support driveshaft away front diff, drain diff and pop the diff out with a jack and put new gasket with RTV.

 

A gasket. Not fipg

 

They have a gasket, if u use both the gasket and fipg, it’s a faster job. If not you could use only the fipg, but have to let the fipg set a little b4 put it back.

 

I could have sworn someone posted a pic of their Gen 2 Tundra with a new bead of FIPG going on. Just assumed they would be the same.

@Hi06silver this may be the part #.

https://toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota....1bmRyYSZ5PTIwMDImdD1zcjUmZT00LTdsLXY4LWdhcw==

 

Change the breather vent!

 

+1

A defective breather vent will increase the pressure in your differential. That would be my first thing to do.

 

Ok. Time for the breather mod I guess!

 

I have all the stuff to do the mod and I have just been lazy to do the swap.

 

Jesus HE double hockey stick ! Which is the right way ARB breather? Factory relocated? 2-way breather. Someone that has done it please chime in with good results.

 

Just to add, if the check is just to spin the cap it checks out but I'll do the breather mod just for cheap insurance when splashing in the puddles when it rains heavy. And for the mall of course.

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/seized-rear-diff-breather-valve.83953/#post-2118721
Read post 12
Although maybe instead of doorman valve this is OEM.
https://www.ebay.com/p/661145553
Have the parts for mine but have not done it yet.

 

ARB breather is just more expensive and accomplishes the same thing as the DIY breather methods.

This is how I did mine: OEM Toyota union on axle -> Fuel hose from union/axle to where the gas tank fill hose is -> fuel filter -> a little more hose -> Dorman check valve.

 

Just do it now. I had all the parts since swapping the axle (rust) sitting around for 10 years. Finally did it when I saw a post regarding replacing the axle seals due to a clogged vent.

Decided I would rather spend 10 minutes now instead. I would always think - I'll just keep an eye on the breather, but I didn't.

 

Did the rear breather mod, behind tail light. Doesn't seem that it was the problem. Looks a little more wet, was just bottom. New seal here I come. I was told by a mechanic that the whole tear end and what not had to come out to do that job...not sure why though.

 

So I'm looking around online for things that I should do if I am going to change this gasket where the housing meets the rear end. Seems like at least axle seals since I have to have it apart and the gasket from Toyota for the housing.
What I find for torque specs is 54-ft pounds for each one of those nuts on the bell housing and I'm a little confused and thinking maybe that seems high from research. I have seen its around 19 ft lb I've believed that's over on a Tacoma thread, but seems like they had a misprint and the factory service manual.

Can anyone verify.or chime in on this?

 

It's not hard at all to change that seal. Disconnect the brake wheel cylinders, undo 4 nuts on each side, slide the axles out, remove all 14 of those bolts and the whole 3 member falls out. new gasket, new inner axle seals, and put it all back together. Took me about 1/2 day when I put in my 4.56 Tacoma 3rd member.

 

Why not change the pinion seal while it's all apart? And of course make sure you can actually remove the filler plug before it all goes back together again.

 

The pinion doesn’t get taken apart to replace the 3rd member/gasket.

 

This may be a dumb question but I'm gonna ask anyways.

If I do this gasket swap in the driveway on level-ish ground once I pull axles out is there any chance that shit can just fall out of the rear end after housing off and axles are out?

Here's what I'm gathering for process and order

Drain the rear differential

un bolt the last u-joint and hang the drive shaft out of the way

undo brakes etc. and 4 bolts holding axles slide them out about half way

unbolt the 10 bolts holding the bell housing to rear end

clean up mating surfaces replace gasket

put shit back together the way it came apart and torque everything down

fill with new 80w-90 with additive

go do figure 8's in a parking lot

 

Use vacuum caps on the brake lines to keep them from dripping. It also keeps the brake master from going dry.

I would disconnect the e-brake cables from the bell cranks and pull the axle complete with the drum brakes intact.

Don't forget to bleed both sides and the lspv.

 

You watched the same Timmy tool time video I watched or you've done this before.
Is there a reason to pull them completely out other than to put new seals in?
I have new inner and outer seals and the one that goes in behind the drum assembly.

 

I've done this before to swap 3rd members. Never watched the vid.

Pulling them keeps the axle weight from resting on and damaging the axle seals.

 

Awesome. So what you're saying is that the seals mat not need replacing if they aren't damaged or you don't damage them? Don't happen to know if there is a special tool needed to reinstall the axle seals do ya?

 

I haven't had to unless they were bad.

No special tool that I can think of, just a seal driver.

 

Gonna ask this here in hopes of keeping my issues/journey with this here all in this thread.

So I drained the rear, removed axles then 3rd member to replace the gasket which was basically non existent but when I refilled it it only took around 2.5 quarts.

Went on a drive afterwards and parked it due being late. Parked on slight incline in reverse as to push fluid more towards seal so I could more check for evidence of leaks this morning. No leaks on ground. YAY!
Went and found an empty parking lot to do figure 8 driving skills in AND also jacked up the rear tire on each side to lean gear oil one way and the other.
Checked fluid, still just at fill hole just not pouring out?!
Can anyone explain this so I'm not worrying about being low on gear oil? Out of the 4 quarts I bought I have 1.5 left. I'd assume I'd have drained most everything out tearing it all down....

 

What I did to my tundra yesterday.....pics from previous story above. Is there a way to upload videos and multiple pics at a time?

 

It only takes about 3.1 qts dry iirc. LSD diffs sometimes take a bit less fluid as the LSD itself takes up more volume inside.

Unless you go through and wipe everything out with a rag you won't get more than 3 in there. You can put the truck on a downward facing incline then fill it that way if you want a bit more in there. Or jack the passenger side of the rear axle up a bit so oil goes down the axle tube a bit.