Underhood fuel leak

Hello all... having a major fuel leak, and I can't find the right replacement part. Took some pics, seems like a fitting where 2 hard lines come together rusted out, spraying gas everywhere :/

It's a 2000 tundra with the 3.4...

Circled in red General location and a closeup of the offending part. Any help is highly appreciated!

 

If it’s anything like the power steering lines, the individual part is probably part of a complete assembly. I’m guessing mucho $$$. I don’t have the 3.4L FSM so I couldn’t tell you.

When you pull it up on a dealer website, does it show a complete fuel line for sale?

 

While I have different year/model, pretty sure the below is what your looking for....whatchamacallit. I'll look at McGeorge in fuel section, might find a part unless others know what they call it.

 

That's gonna be a good one to find as it appears to go all the way to the tank. If you HAVE to drive it, I would consider getting a length of proper fuel line to go from red circle in pic below to hard pipe at the fuel rail.
That's the farmer in me but perhaps others have better suggestions. Unless someone shows up with how to search hard lines to tank, the dealer might be able to help if you took pictures to them.





Would definitely confirm with a dealer but it appears the part # is 23801-62100 that goes to fuel rail and the other goes to the fuel filter !

 

I look forward to your solution. I am sure I have that in my future.

Tying the un-rusted steel line into a rubber hose...that is not going to be easy. Especially considering (1) the male hose nut is very rusty, (2) the limited access, and (3) the need to contain relatively high pressure. Not like the old days of low-pressure carb fuel lines.

 

If you're not into buying the whole line from the tank to rail, here's what I'd do.

Use a mini hacksaw to cut both ends away from that fitting.

Use a proper tubing cutter on the rear line since it's not super rusty then install a new nut and flare it.

Remove the line at the fuel rail, take it to a shop and have them remove the steel fuel rail side of the line and crimp it onto a new hose and have them make a new line with the correct flare fitting to match what you put on the old tank like.

So ultimately you'd end up with something like
old line from tank>male flare nut>female flare nut>new steel line>new rubber line>old banjo fitting to fuel rail.

 

If he could manage to do that part...he could add a flare/hose barb to that unrusted tube and then a male/male hose barb fitting to tie the new rubber into the existing rubber.

But, it sure looks like Festerw's Step #1 will be tough w/o removing the hose assembly from the truck.

Roy

 

There's a reason fuel lines are flared, crimped, etc, though. It should work but if there's a failure 40psi fuel spraying around a hot engine bay is a problem.

 

You got that right.

 

Bumping this thread to see if anyone has new suggestions. I have the exact same problem and am unable to find the parts. Can I replace the whole line with a specific type of fuel line?

 

Sure.

There are hard-line options...steel, copper-nickle, and such.

And, plastic/rubber.

https://www.hemmings.com/stories/20...-line-hose-what-you-should-and-should-not-use

I recently did a brake line using copper-nickle, and it worked well. Easy to bend for a hard line.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Tm6N5l69_c

One of the problems with replacing a fuel line is the tie-in between the new/old lines. After you decide what material you'll use...you can investigate material-specific tie in options.

Roy

 

Any follow up on this issue? How did previous posters resolved this problem? Any pics?

 

I, too, continue to be interested. I just discovered my fuel filter is really rusty...along with the associated hard-line fitting. It is easy for me to imagine wrecking the fitting...ending up with the same, more or less, problem as the OP.

Roy

 

Looks like I'll be picking up where the OP left off.

 

Rust never rests.
I now not only need a new fuel filter, due to rust, I have a big rust hole in my resonator.

 

Okay, made a couple phone calls today for the 2002 Tundra:

Fuel line from fuel tank to fuel filter:
Part No # 77252-0C012 $67.06 retail ($49.39 from their online website); probably don't need unless I mangle getting the fuel filter off

Fuel filter:
Part No # 23030-62010 $39.58 retail ($29.74 from their online website); not required but would like to do

Fuel line from fuel filter to engine bay:
Part No # 77251-0C012 $76.20 retail ($56.12 from their online website); necessary

Fuel line from engine bay into fuel rail:
Part No # 23801-50050 $71.03 retail - OBSOLETE!!!

Time to shop online for residual Toyota stock then call the local shop to see if they can provide a fix without replacement

 

@Jack McCarthy

https://parts.lakelandtoyota.com/p/...LY--FUEL---PIPE--FUEL/3937369/2380150050.html

 

This kinda stuff with Toyota discontinuing certain parts is making me nervous. Hard to stop myself from compulsory buying of anything they may discontinue in the future.

 

Looks like it corroded behind the fitting on the line to the fuel filter



Now to inspect the rest of the line to the fuel filter.

 

Well the fuel line is now squirting out of the fuel rail via a pinhole leak so it looks like a tow to get it to the local shop a mile away.

Estimate is $200-$300 to replace the line from the fuel filter and splicing into the existing obsolete line connecting to the fuel rail using nylon hose and brass fittings. I'll be spraying the connections to the fuel filter so hopefully he can get it off by next Monday.

If I de-pressurize the fuel line by disconnecting the fuel pump fuse and running the engine till it stalls, can I re-pressurize it and get it to run again?

I'd like to carefully wrench the fuel filter after spraying daily.

 

New fuel lines. All of em. What do your brake lines and load valve look like?

 

Brake lines look fine. Just some minor surface rust.

 

What about the hardware? And brackets.

 

He’ll most likely bypass those to do it quick. My guess is zip ties. Those brackets would break apart if he played around with them and the nylon hose won’t fit in them I’m guessing.

 

When you crank it over it'll build pressure again. Just may take a couple extra revolutions to fire.

You could also jump the fuel pump relay pins in the fuse box.

 

Good to know, thanks. Hopefully re-pressurizing it won’t cause the pinhole to get much bigger.

 

Need to convince LMC Truck to start making discontinued parts

 

You'll pay a fortune, but at least they'll have it. LMC has always been my go-to for older GM trucks.

I'm actually surprised there's nothing available from Summit to rebuild the lines. Surely there must be someone out there making this stuff?

I agree with whoever said it here or in another thread. Just get some AN fittings and cobble a solution together. I don't make lines anymore, but I have a flaring tool or two leftover from my hot rod days I can part with. I usually do braided lines with AN everything on GenIII/LS swaps these days. Just tape off the braided line, cut it, set your AN fitting, peel back the tape and twist it up, you're done.

 

I’m beginning to wonder if brass fittings are a wise choice due to the potential for galvanic corrosion mating to the steel fitting of the fuel filter. I’ll have to see if he offers regular steel or if brass is the only option.

 

Me too. I still think it's weird which parts they are discontinuing. Brake booster and master cylinder for example.

An obscure fuel line makes more sense but still sucks.