What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I have the same problem on my roof. I am doing a rattle can paint job and clear. I plan on doing it today if the weather holds out for me. I will post results and process when I am done. That can help in your decision!

 

You need to get into truck systems. The car ones don't do more than 4 well. RV systems tend to do 6, sometimes 7.
Randomly I'll see a system that lets you add more sensors, but those tend to be more tractor trailer systems that allow for tractor & 2 pups in tow.

 

Can not help with what kind but was wondering if you plan on registering them into ECU. The reason I ask is because Techstream only shows 5 being able to be registered. Someone like @empty_lord would have to comment if it’s a concern !

 

It can be done with great results. I'm a rank amateur but my best advice is if you're going to do it yourself is get a piece of sheet metal to practice on first. That way you can get a feel for the body motions you'll need and when to start and stop spraying during beginning and end of each pass. Watch the video closely and notice the little details of how close or how far he's holding the can during the different processes and especially his suggestion to have a paper towel handy to wipe the nozzle occasionally to prevent splatter and drip. And he uses the Eastwood clearcoat in a can with the hardener. Very good for DIY. One other thing, I'm unsure where you live but if it's typically cool and/or damp in the fall there I would recommend bumping up your time-frame to late summer.

https://youtu.be/tDnecjnpYMU

 

Thanks @Desert Dog, wx won’t be issue….located where TN, AL, MS meet, we barely have winter and fall can be as hot as summer. Thanks also for video !

 

I bought all mine from summit, DENSO brand. They’re literally the oem for 25-30 a piece

 

has anyone gotten rid of these little nobs without getting rid of the fender liner? I find they alittle ugly, so if someone knows of a mod to either replace them without cutting them, id appreciate it :-D

Edit: I cant seem to get the photo to upload

edit 2: Never mind I succeeded

 

That is good to know. I think all mine are working.

I am considering a system like this for real time monitoring. A blow out on a single axle trailer is a day ruining event.
https://tsttruck.com/507-series-6-flow-thru-sensor-tpms-systemtst-507-ft-6.html

 

Do you have a heat gun or blow dryer? Get them hot and push up with a piece of wood or something

 

Can someone explain what adjusting this bolt is supposed to do? Referring to the one for the parking brake bell crank I think.

 

I believe when you get it within spec, it helps the star adjuster click the pads open the way it was designed. It always seems hard to get both sides even while your under, you have to go for a spin, use the ebrake, come back and see where your at and adjust again, a real pain in the balls

they work in unison with the “self adjusters” but you need a few c hairs gap between the backing plate

 

Retrieved Blackstone lab samples from Tundritte. ATF last changed 26k miles ago. Engine oil lats changed 5.5K miles ago.

Pics on build thread soon.

 

@jpink came over here and did the same thing earlier. He didn't have the collection kit yet so I gave him an empty used plastic cup.

So, two dicks one cup?




(Someone will remember this)

 

As long as there wasn't any dilbert activity...

 

Can't add much to what @FrenchToasty already mentioned other than the adj procedure from a 03 FSM !

 

I know it's hard to tell from these pictures, but overall it looks like my frame is compressing downwards on the drivers side. The vertical sections of the box appear to be bowed out slightly when compared to the passengers side. I initially started eyeballing this cancer, and then I saw that... These scale straight edge pictures are the best I could do in works parking lot...












Fawk

No wonder the truck sits an inch lower on the drivers side....

 

Oof. Get some good measurements on an extra flat and level chunk of concrete (on similar jackstands)

then jump some train tracks and see if it gets worse.

 

From here, it looks like your straight edge is higher up on the drivers side; making the gap look more than it is.

Hope it's not crumbling on ya.

 

I don’t see anything wrong. Driver side is always lower. Clean the rust up. If it’s not through your fine

 

Time will tell when I end up face down, and ass up in a tree.

That rust spot is coming through. I remember there being a "worse" spot in about that area last year when I was poking around in there. Also, the frame sidewalls aren't "Straight" vertically anymore on the driver side.

 

De scale and inspect. That spot is very uncommon for these trucks. The walls are not perfectly flat on may of these trucks if I remember right. I’ll have to check mine

 

Just make sure that shit show goes in the Campfire thread.

So there I was... face down, ass up.

 

I checked mine with a straight edge, and its pretty square.

granted, mine hasnt done any appreciable work its whole life.

 

See the below quotes from about this time last year from me.

It'll be there. The death of Tundra2's lifetime projecto.

I suppose the buckling could be from whrn I jumped the rail road tracks at 60mph that one time when I was a fawkin still. But the rust spot is definitely new. See the above quotes from me.

Edit: the railroad incident was years ago before I'd ever even heard of this forum. Probably 2015

 

Start hunting a frame down. BUT honestly I still think you’ve got a long time before that becomes a big issue.

 

Keep in mind hasn't this truck eaten some venison over the years?
As push bar gets pushed it unevenly transfers energy to the frame through - what - 2 or 4 bolts?
Kinda thinking it's more deer than rust.