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Replaced driveshaft, still not moving forward?

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by ThatYeti, May 29, 2021.

  1. Jul 1, 2021 at 11:19 AM
    #61
    ThatYeti

    ThatYeti [OP] New Member

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    Minor update....tried to clean the throttle body and the module to the right of it got unplugged....and apparently the plug us gone, someone just wired a contact to each wire and plugged it in instead of replacing the plug. So I did my best to replace them based on how the wires were bent, but it immediately threw a P0120 code and was running like shit. Left it alone til last night when I was taking it to get a quote on having the PW steering lines relaxed, refilled the system as it's only a few miles away. Drove like a champ....all 4 miles there haha. No codes, engine ran great.... Though I'm sure it was leaking PW steering fluid the whole way there.

    Got the call this morning that the rack itself is supposedly leaking pretty bad in addition to the lines so it's all gotta get replaced....$2,250....for a new rack, lines, sensor, system flush, and alignment.

    Another day another gut punch for Project Double Gnar (hat tip to professional Hand model guy).

    Waiting on another quote from the shop I'd prefer to do it, but was backed up for a few weeks so I tried a shop that was closer to me. Also thinking I may try my hand at it myself which I'm sure will go poorly based on my prior experience with everything on this truck to this point. Will update what I hear back from the other shop but don't think I can stomach another $2200 after just dropping almost $4k on the trans and $600 on a driveshaft....all on a truck I only paid $3k for a few months ago and drove home an hour
     
  2. Jul 1, 2021 at 1:04 PM
    #62
    rock climber

    rock climber New Member

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    Sounds like this may be fixed, but if not the TPS sensor is finicky to replace and needs to be "clocked" Here's the FSM

    Replacing the TPS is super easy

    TPS 1 .jpg
    TPS 2 .jpg
     
    bmf4069 likes this.
  3. Jul 2, 2021 at 8:35 AM
    #63
    ThatYeti

    ThatYeti [OP] New Member

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    Thanks. If it ever gets roadworthy enough to throw a code I'll prob get into that.

    Shop it's at wants $2250 to replace the rack, lines, flush it, align it. The first shop I'd used basically said it'd be around $2000+ but can't look at it for another 3 weeks.

    So I'm basically stuck again with a huge expensive paperweight that has a few new shiny parts at this point.

    Thinking I'm just gonna have the shop it's at fix the power steering, and cross my fingers another major failure doesn't pop up....cause at this point I'll be close to $9k into this cheap truck.....could have just bought a better truck for that money and I could have been driving it this whole time.

    *Edit - Asked shop it's at if we could get the cost down at all and they dropped it to $1950 for the power steering work and fixing a rear strut perch that was apparently poorly welded to the point of being useless by previous owner and I'd not even gotten around to yet. Told them to go ahead and fingers crossed this is the last major job it needs for a little bit and that I'll actually be able to take it to a hardware store or to pickup a couch or whatever
     
    Last edited: Jul 2, 2021
  4. Jul 8, 2021 at 1:15 PM
    #64
    ThatYeti

    ThatYeti [OP] New Member

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    Project Double Gnar has returned......well it made it the whole like 3 miles home. Power steering resolved, and a fresh alignment. Rode well enough on the way home but it seems everytime I fix something the other issues lurking start making more noise.....like the exhaust manifolds seemed to be chirping extra loud by the time I got home.

    Regardless it's another step. They couldn't replicate the throttle CEL cause I had cleared it to be able to drive it there, so I'm sure that will pop back up if I take it much farther. Also still needs a brake overhaul (one shop mentioned the lines were replaced but done wrong), front struts (thinking of going quick struts and maybe rears too), tires, and a timing belt as I'm sure it's been a while since it was done based on everything else. Also need to chase down what's causing the passenger headlight not to work, most recent shop said they looked at it quickly and just said it's not grounding or something...may just not drive it at night...lol



    If I'm feeling brave this weekend I may take it to pickup a small wood chipper or a new/used set of wheels & tires but we'll see.
     
    Last edited: Jul 8, 2021
    KNABORES likes this.
  5. Jul 8, 2021 at 3:19 PM
    #65
    rock climber

    rock climber New Member

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    I know it's frustrating, but eventually you'll get there and it will be dead reliable.

    Please don't use quickstruts, they are deathtraps waiting to happen! If your stock coils are good, get bilstein 4600 for replacements.
     
  6. Jul 8, 2021 at 3:20 PM
    #66
    ThatYeti

    ThatYeti [OP] New Member

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    Appreciate that and I don't think I'd call the stock coils 'good' so I wanted to start fresh and was going to go in with a quality unit like a Monroe, still not a good idea?
     
  7. Jul 8, 2021 at 3:25 PM
    #67
    rock climber

    rock climber New Member

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    I had those on my last truck and one didn't extend all the way so it was launch the truck sideways after a large pothole. They were terrible and the coil springs aren't usable on anything else. If you're in a bind and need something cheap for 6 months they're ok.

    New OME coils are $200, and $200 for the shocks.
     
  8. Jul 8, 2021 at 3:31 PM
    #68
    ThatYeti

    ThatYeti [OP] New Member

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    Understood, but given the level of 'Gnar' I was hoping to start fresh with a whole assembly, and getting a factory setup involves like 20 separate parts and needing a spring compressor, etc.
     
  9. Jul 8, 2021 at 6:42 PM
    #69
    ThatYeti

    ThatYeti [OP] New Member

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    Seeing mixed reviews on the rancho 'quick struts' and I'm not looking for a lift but are there any complete coil/strut replacements that people have had good luck with?
     

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