Brake light on (tech).

On my 2000 Tundra, the dash brake light is on.
To give a little background...

I got this truck from a friend who had parked it after an ill-fated hunting trip. It had a really cheap spacer 4.5" lift that put spacer 'cans' between the top of the steering knuckle and the ball UCA. This caused stress on the steering knuckle and the knuckles failed. First time was on the drivers side about a block from home, the second time was while he was hunting. The truck sat for about 3 years until I bought it.

I got some OE knuckles from a junkyard for it, replaced the ball joints and bearings with new OEM and gusseted the knuckles. The intention was to remove the 4.5" lift and go back to stock.

After taking the front end apart to remove the lift, I found out that this was not an option as the front cross member had been cut out for a replacement that drops the LCA's down a few inches. I can weld, but I am not confident in my fabrication abilities to replace the cross member with a custom fabricated piece (this is where the steering rack mounts).

So I got a new set of 5.5" (maybe 6"?) drop spindles from Tuff Country suspension. These are new castings and are the correct way to lift the truck.

Since I had the front end completely taken apart, I replaced the CV's, brakes, brake backing plates, etc with all new OEM parts (yeah buddy). Put speed bleeders on all 4 corners so I can bleed the brakes myself.

So now I've got a brake light on.

I've checked:

• E-brake switch -this is good
• MC fluid level and float -this is good.
• E-brake is adjusted
• ABS sensor wires.

Pulling codes, it's reporting that the front right ABS sensor is bad (but the ABS light is not on).
I replaced the ABS sensor, cleared the codes and I am still getting the brake light on, and codes still show that it's the front right ABS sensor. Thinking maybe it's wiring related, I checked continuity from the ABS sensor all the way up to the ABS Valve body and I have clear signal. I've flexed the wires to see if there might be an intermittent open in the wire and its still good.

Since the sensor is a 'lifetime warranty' unit (the OEM sensor is no longer available) I exercised my warranty rights to replace the sensor. So I am on the third sensor, still getting the same error code for the front right ABS sensor.


Kind of out of ideas now, so I am asking the Tundras community for some help.

 

Brake light is only for brake fluid level. Must be the float sensor going bad

 

I think you missing the tone ring on the cv shaft

 

Tone ring isn't on the CV, it's pressed in with the bearing and hub.
I put in new OEM Tone rings when I assembled the new knuckles.

 

Unplug MC connector (can’t remember if it’s normally closed or open), if light goes out switch is normally open and MC float is issue. If light still on, short the connector with a paper clip. If light goes out, switch is normally closed and MC is float is the issue.
If light never goes out MC is not issue. Try same procedure with E brake switch.
Another note, I’ve had some cheap scanners mix left and right speed sensor codes. Can’t recall what manufacturer it was on. If you have the ability to watch the wheel speed signals on your scanner, that’s a sure fire way to check them for operation.

 

I may have found the issue with the sensor.
Truck production date is pre 2/2000 and there are two different PNs for that.
I have the 2/2000+ ABS sensor on the front right.

 

Sensor replaced with the correct 99-2/2000 sensor and the light is off.