Potentially snapped Timing Belt

That doesn't seem high to me. I priced out something similar last year on my 1998 Ford Explorer 4.0 SOHC.

The best junk yard pull was $1000 with 100,000 miles. My trustworthy shop wanted a "few thousand" dollars to pull the old one out and put the used one in. That would have been ~$3000 to $4000 ballpark. The 4.0 is an inferior motor. The Explorer is an inferior vehicle. The engine I'd have gotten would have not been as low mileage as the OPs engine. And the OP is getting about $1200 - $1500 in additional work done (timing belt, water pump, etc.).

$3500 for the low miles engine and about $3500 to repair/maintain it and install it, also assuming they pull the old one out as well. I think that's within reasonable.

I'd want some sort of a warranty if I were the OP, and if there's no core on the engine see if he can sell the old engine for $500...

 

wont really change the value of the truck. but price is indeed a little high. but again your doing all the maintenance too. i would HIGHLY recommend a new OEM rear main seal since now would be the time to change it though. i just did a 4runner at work last week. with the used engine and all 4 catalytic converters he came out to 10k.

 

They shouldn't charge him that much to install a timing belt on an engine that's not installed. Also, @thefish712 needs to ask if that price includes Toyota parts or not.

 

Close call in my opinion. Consider what the truck is worth as it sits too. Cut your losses? Think on it i suppose.

 

I guess I'd look at it as a long term investment. If you're planning on keeping it, it's money well spent. What else could you purchase for this investment?

 

OP has $9k already sunk into this. Sure, probably 1/2 or so is likely re-couped if it's sold. But if he needs a lifted truck and esp a lifted (presumed 4x4) he'd be hard pressed to find a better one for the $16k he'd be into this one to fix this one.

A decent truck is going to be at least $10k and that's with unknown problems. And a lifted 4x4 commands another premium.

I don't know the value of these lift kits, but when I bought mine it had a King lift kit on it that I researched and found the value to be around $4000.... That's something to really factor. What is the REPLACEMENT cost of this truck when it's in working condition?

 

Save the truck! I vote to keep the wheels as they are also

@bmf4069 we need a poll! Copy those images, and make a poll.
Keep wheels as they are or powder coat. You are the number one!

 

$7200 seems high to me. It's a lot of work though. The engine with 55k miles on it, is that verifiable?

 

Not sure. Will find out. How does it work with the odometer? Surely it stays the same lol pardon my ignorance

 

How much would that new OEM rear main seal add to it? I'm not made from money and this is already way more than I wanted to be spending lol

 

It comes with 90 day warranty and he offered to double that. Good idea on selling the old engine. Any idea how that would work? I sell it to a junk yard?

 

California. I'm in San Diego and the truck is in Newport Beach,,, not the cheapest part of the state ha

 

I think the ODO will remain the same. It will be up to you to obtain official documentation on the engine and the install work, and keep that in your records to prove later what the ODO was when the engine was installed, and the claimed mileage on the engine. Best to start keeping good notes so you can keep track of what needs to be done on maintenance schedules... it gets a bit more complicated.

 

For what it's worth, KBB has the truck between $17K & ~ $22K

Of course, that's assuming that the rest of the truck only has 55K miles

 

Well, the "new" engine might require it as a "core" charge. Or maybe not. Most rebuilt motors will need it as the "core" exchange. It works as a credit, in a sense. Like a battery or alternator core exchange.

Otherwise, find out sooner than later. Shop that engine around to rebuilders so the moment it's pulled they can get it. Storing and moving it will be a real hassle. Have it palletized and maybe put in the bed of the truck at the shop so you can transport it to a buyer? You might even barter some future mechanical service if you can find a shop willing to give you some in-house credit for the core engine? Get creative.

 

That's in line with my estimate on mine, probably $15-20k. Seems about right.

 

Before dropping that money though, I'd carefully inspect that truck and even pay someone (generally $100) to go over the rest of it closely. Rust, lower ball joints, steering, etc. Harder without an engine in it to test drive it but you really need to make a hard decision so look very critically for any big issues before investing double your initial layout... RUST is a big one to look for. A CA truck is probably okay.

 

seals like 40 bucks. labor.. well at that price they should just throw it in


if rear main needed to be replaced later? 1000-2000

 

OP sorry you’re in this spot.

You’re in school so you have that expense to deal with. I don’t know what if any income you have, but at this point if you don’t have access to another vehicle it is probably time to cut bait and run.

Sell the truck as it is and go buy a Corolla or Civic until you’re done with school and hopefully gainfully employed.

 

It should only add $40 to do it now and $1,000 - $2,000 later...? Seriously? lol

 

Ha! I am not in school, not sure what gave that impression, but I appreciate the advice nonetheless. $7,200 is just shitty either way. But yeah, if I was in school I don't think there'd be any other option

 

“Listen” to Dan, it’s worth it on many levels….

 

Well are we talking about a rear main seal on a pulled motor that is not in the truck or attached to a transmission?

If the answer is “yes” it should be way cheaper now than when it’s in the truck. Since it’s already out it can just be put on an engine stand, turned upside down and gotten after. Much much more involved in the frame and hooked up to the trans.

 

Guess for some reason I thought you were. Beats me.

$7200 is a hefty bill for a new motor. You might be able to get a rebuild done cheaper and end up with a nicer engine for that money. The old mill has to be pulled anyway. I would be really curious what the pistons look like with the heads off, if they’re intact and the cylinder walls are not damaged salvage cylinder heads or rebuilding your current set would be cheaper. You could even have a nice valve job done while they’re off and go to a higher lift cam set. You could for sure do that for under $7200 and end up with a more powerful engine. I would be surprised if a rebuilt of both top and bottom end exceeded $7200.

 

Keep It Simple Sally

 

I'd also seriously consider replacing the starter with the motor out. Get a upgraded beefier one. This is a very expensive job if it's in and needs replacing. As I understand it the top half of the motor has to be removed to access it. It's one of the few design flaws of this engine... I would do a comparison of pricing and probably replace it with a beefier one that will last 1/2 million miles.

 

Any idea how much that would run?

 

I suspect mostly just parts if the motor is out.

If the motor is in, parts plus a LOT of labor...

 

if the engine they send has the manifold still on it, theres a good chance the starter will still be with the new engine


that being said if you are getting the motor with a new manifold on it to... ask if you can get the old manifold, fuel rail and throttle body.. because i'd buy that sucker

 

I sold my 96 Exploder for $2400 in 2008. 140k miles on it and ran as good as new.

The price he is being quoted sounds on the high side. I was expecting something in the ballpark of $2k tops for a motor and a bit over that for labor for the swap. The timing belt and water pump doesn't add much to labor, it isn't the same as when the motor is in the vehicle. Figure an extra $750 tops for that and fluids and you're tetering on $5k.

Not sure what else they're including that I might not have thought over. I've had motors swapped on two vehicles and wasn't nearly that much. My Element was around 2800 for a 60k mile motor, new motor mounts, clutch, seals, belt, tensioner, fluids and all. Then again you can walk into any junkyard and find a K24.

Is this an independent mechanic? See if there is room to come down on that.