Suspension Thread #79425

Hahaha I might be familiar with different options but I'm not an expert.

I see a few main options that might fit here and one of those two has a variation. Get ready for more long winded thoughts.

A) If you coils are rusty, consider pulling them and sanding or media blasting them. Then you can paint them and take the cheap man way out. 5100s would be smart since you have height adjustability as @KNABORES said, or 4600s should be fine and save you some cash. It won't last as long as powder coat, but for the cost of stripping and powder coating you could have new coils.

B) Check around with members who changed out stock suspension on their double cabs and see if they'll send you their old coils. Bonus if you find a DC 4x4 as they will give you slight lift (about an inch). Then proceed with 5100s or 4600s.

C) If you don't want to mess with any of that, you can go with the 6112 up front. They have options for 650 or 700lb coils, I think 650 should be fine but it is well worth seeking a member with a double cab who runs these for confirmation. Too heavy a coil is a fast route to regret.

For your rears, if you will remain stock height you are fine with 4600s. I don't think there is a notice difference in ride quality between them or 5100s, the benefit of 5100s on the rear is only realized if you lift the rear (and only compensates for 1" of lift). I mentioned 5150 earlier, while those are nice it is overkill for your use.

OME coils are another option for inexpensive coil replacements, but for as long as I can remember the height you achieve is a real guessing game. They tend to provide more lift than advertised, but recently a member got 550lb coils on his double cab and got no lift. That might be an option and if he hasn't returned them, maybe he will let them go for a cheap price.

As far as sway bars go, 100% agree with @FirstGenVol that yours is fine. Replace the end links and call it done. I don't use a sway bar up front but I'm a madman. Since I don't use one I can tell you that the stock sway bar is excellent for the intended job as long as the links and bushings are in good shape. When my truck was stock and had a sway bar the handling around corners was impressive, now it feels like a boat.

 

He does not currently have Bilstein shocks up front. They are another brand but I didn't look close enough to see what they were. Will those coils even transfer over to 5100's?

 

If they are Monroe, they won't. There might be KYB using stock coils in there but if in doubt maybe new coils is safer.

If there is enough paint left, look for paint marks on the coils. Toyota put 2 marks on each coil, it will look like they wiped a paint brush off on them. If no marks, then it probably isn't a factory coil and might not work with Bilstein shocks.

 

By the way I have to say I love how the first gen crowd doesn't get carried away with blingy expensive parts for normal use trucks and justify it with the "buy once cry once" slogan. I love all these sensible people in here.

 

Well. Yeah. But if I had any idea he could be talked into long-travel, I’d have posted up a great list!

 

Okay so coils could maybe be reused but that means prep, work, and delay to reuse that could be simplified by just having everything good to go.

Basically, my brain is happier knowing they’re dealt with even if my wallet isn’t.

 

Hahahaha, for a purpose built truck like yours the rules are different. That's where paying the big bucks makes sense, and you take your rig out often enough to justify the expense without having to say that dreaded slogan.

 

Leave it to experts but there ain’t no maybe IMHO, those orig coils appear to be good for many more miles. I will add that many in the know have commented to keep orig coils if at all possible. That being said, you are the one sleeping with your decision and wallet….go with what makes you not look back !

 

I've never replaced suspension, let alone taken a coil off and put it back on. Just seems like something beyond my comfort level.

 

After seeing those pictures I think I was wrong about your UCA's. I'd replace those too. Just not sure you need the real expensive Total Chaos ones you asked about.

Also, we're going to need a lot more fluid film and a lot of penetrant. We're going to be in Noah's tent of pain during this project.

Does anyone know the best tool for removing that rusted outer tie rod? I remember someone recommending something before but I can't recall what it was.

 

Respectfully to party of second party but you have the "Mangler" of East Tn on your side

 

lol yeah, and you saw we left paper towels inside the intake up against that butterfly.....then I drove the damned thing a couple blocks.....right?

....

 

We don’t even won’t to start a “What’s your biggest screw up” thread

 

Rule # 4: if you want help from someone that knows or has more experience than you do, never blast your mangler, er, mentor online….

 

I didn't see any sway bar in the rear when I was out earlier crawling around....

....

 

Holy fuck sticks batman! There's a lot to read here. (<- what is this emoji supposed to be...?)

 

it's called a "Sawzall"

 

I got one of those, any recommended blade type? Or just have cutting oil on hand too?

 

I partially joke here. If you cut it off the inner tie rod, you need a new inner tie rod. You should be able to spin the outer tie rod off of the inner with no problem, those threads have been covered up the whole time. You may need a puller for the connection to the spindle if you can't whack it loose.

 

Diablo thick metal. I have extras I can bring when work commences. Wont hurt to buy extra for yourself either.

I need to read this whole thing...

 

Praying.

 

Thanks.

 

I’ll chime in on the 6112/5160 combo. I have done it twice on double cab 4x4s. First was topped out with an add a leaf in the back. Second was set to 1” front lift, stock rear. Both were great. Will be doing the combo again on my current truck and will have a set of 4600s in the front (truck is the trd) and kyb gas a justs available.

 

So to recap, currently my list is this (yes, I know potentially sacrificing decent coils):

For Sure: Ordered!

• Bilstein B8 6112 coilover kit ($732)
• Bilstein B8 5100 shocks ($94 x2)
• Hellwig Rear Sway Bar ($404)

For Sure: Pending

• General Springs HD Rear Leaf ($229.99 x2)

I remember reading stick with OEM on the LBJ's, but I'm unsure on the Control Arms. Seems OEM was cheapest when I was looking around, but is it typical OEM where all the bolts and everything are gonna be extra sourced parts? Need to watch for that.

Debating Options/Sources:

• OEM Lower Ball Joints ($120.52/ea x2)
• OEM Lower Control Arms ($250.52/ea x2)
• OEM Upper Control Arms ($210.86/ea x2)
• OEM Outer Tie Rods ($53.66 x2)
  
• Front Sway Bar Links, bushings...
• U Bolts, Plate, Bump stop...OEM vs General Springs? GS?
• Beer. Advil.

 

Cam kits/Eccentric bolts for alignment also. SPC makes a kit that others have recommended. I went with OEM.

 

So, tool list in my head that I'm prepping...

1. Map gas torch
2. Big fuckin hammer
3. penetrant. Lots of penetrant... lots
4. ball joint separator
5. Gloves for hot hands work

Anyone wanna loan me Oxy/Acetylene torch?

 

Glad I'm not the only one thinking this.

 

@jpink brake lines?

 

Already done.