Procomp lift

Hmmm. Was running behind yesterday on a 1.5 hr drive...set then cruise at 80 indicated (84 GPS) and the RPMs were right under 3k. Little gear hunts unless going up an incline. Mpg for the trip was 13.7 tho.

 

Nothing a 150 shot of wet N2O couldn't fix anyway

 

I have the procomp stage 2. 20" wheels. 37x12.50x20 Mickey Thompsons. 0 offset. I massaged the inner fenders with a heat gun. Still rubs on them. I need to get more aggressive with my massage.

Rides fine. A little stiffer then stock. Still very acceptable. My wife doesn't mind it and she dd's an escalade.

I did regear to 4.88s. @dirtydeeds Keith hooked me up. Nitro set up. It was fairly pricey to buy and have installed, but it was most definitely worth it.

Let me see if I can dig up a pic or 2.

 

All good info coming in here and I appreciate all the help. Any solution for gear hunting besides gears or is it just what it is?

 

Lockers will be more of just a part cost but the overall labor for regearing can vary quite a bit but I would do your homework and go with a reputable place that has experience. Again if this is more of a daily driver with just occasional trail use wouldnt worry about lockers. You can get programmers that have speedo built in but the only real necessity is the speedo calibrator. When I looked at regearing labor was about 600. But I stayed with 35's and chose not to regear since I dont tow on a regular basis and nothing too extreme off road

 

Just gears. Something to do with the ratios of gear 5 and gear 6 in tranny. I paid about 800 an axle for labor. Gear set was seperate.

 

You could get that hypertech speedo calibrator that you plug in to change the speed on the actual speedometer correct? Instead of a programmer?

 

6" pc lift. It does aight'

 

Yup

 

If any 4wd guys or gals have the piece of cross member they cut out. I'll gladly take it

 

Update....MAY CAN'T GET HERE SOON ENOUGH!!! Found a company from my home town in Wisco that does all the toyota dealerships lifts and it's $1200 for labor!! Trusted place from friends recommendations and they sponsor one of my buddies who races off road. Little piece of mind there for me. Anyways that guy by me that wanted 2k for labor and would only put stock wheels and tires back on ( which wouldnt work anyways ) or charge a 20 buck a wheel fee to install aftermarket wheels and tires ( not mount and balance ) if you didn't buy from him...he can take a big suckle off my love post!!!

 

Good stuff, let us know how it turns out.

 

Shoot. You just missed that by a week!!! Didn't think anyone would want that.

 

Mmm it hurt to read that this morning

 

I'm sure if you contacted any 4 wheel shops and told them you needed one, they'd probably keep a look out for ya as long as you shot them some business. just a thought

 

Yes sir. A local 4wp is where I'll be taking it to get worked on. I'm going to calll then and give them a heads up to keep an eye out for one as well.

 

if it helps I'll do the same. those had boys will fit in a flat rate box for little to nothing.

 

Shoot ya. If you find one I'll slip some moneys your way. Thanks

 

For noobs like me, I had to go research all this since I'm new to it.. anyone else new. I hope this helps, and is CORRECT

When you add taller tires to your truck or SUV, the larger circumference of the tires allows your vehicle to travel a further distance at the same engine rpm. This effect is taking better advantage of the work being done by allowing you to do more work (travel further) at the same engine rpm (theoretically using the same amount of energy). Unfortunately, the theoretical world does not carry over to reality in some cases. Adding a taller tire puts more space between the ground and the axle center point, which lengthens the leverage arm. This decreases the amount of force applied at the end of the arm (torque to the ground at the contact patch of the tire). Making matters worse, it takes more torque (which uses more fuel) to move a heavier wheel-and-tire combo, and bigger tires are almost always heavier. Therefore, adding larger tires to your truck almost never helps economic or acceleration performance. The small exception this rule may be the diesel truck. Some diesels trucks have so much torque that the effects of adding a mildly taller and heavier tire are negligible and they can actually get better fuel economy and see almost no power loss.To counteract the effects of larger tires, you can change the gears in your differential(s) to increase the ratio of how many revolutions of the driveshaft it takes to make one full revolution of the wheel (raising the engine rpm at the same speed). Swapping out to “lower” gears will offset some effects of larger tires and (if you gear appropriately) will put your engine rpm versus speed close to where it was from the factory.

This will usually create the optimum balance for best fuel economy and best power while at the same time correcting the speedometer (in most vehicles), realigning proper shift points in automatic transmissions, and relieving stress on the rest of the powertrain prior to the pinion.

What does all this mean? Well, a happier YOU, really. Having the correct gear ratio for your truck and its tires will give you the best fuel economy, improve acceleration, throttle response, and your ability to maintain highway speeds.

 

This must be why Grave Digger is so badass!!!

 

Me likey moneys... me likey 6 inch lift more though LOL

 

I know, I'm working on it my friend.

 

take your time brotha. I'm in no hurry to lower my gas mileage

 

You guys will know before my wife does lol may 22 getting her did

 

If you don't get one by the end of may and mine off my '15 will work for ya I'll shout out to ya

 

I'm also looking for the factory differential carrier for driver and passenger side which would be item 5,6 &7

 

Did you get control arms or just what came in the PC stage 2 kit?