More Pink Milkshake

ATF lines do go through the radiator. If they didn’t we’d not be having pink milkshake discussions.

The hand models perspective on this is to replace the radiator at the same time as timing belt.

The failure studies I’ve seen look to be the fittings at the entry/exit of ATF ports on the radiator. The dissimilar metals corrode and bloat allowing the mix to happen.

Not sure if Denso made corrections to the design of radiator? This is the important question.

I am using a Cryomax radiator since 2014 installed by others. So far so good.

 

That was a mistake on my part. I meant to ask if the cooling circuit in your radiator was for Power Steering.

And my 2000 has the same: an in-radiator heat exchanger, and an exterior secondary cooler in front of the radiator.

That was my question too. According to that post, the heat exchanger in the radiator is for power steering, and the small "radiator type" cooler is for the transmission. Both systems do use Dex 3 ATF.

I guess I have to climb under my truck and confirm where those lines come to and from.

 

Gotcha, thanks!

 

After all the issues with champion radiators in the 1st gen tacos I’ve decided I’m going Mishimoto for the tundra with a large aftermarket trans cooler and no built in cooler, but instead run a 180 degree t stat for the trans

 

What's going on in the lower left of that diagram? Part #44420 looks like a bypass for a cooler.

 

I thought those were the outside cooling coils mechanism located up front of engine.

 

I believe it's just there to dissipate heat some and add capacity to the system. My theory is that it's a ghetto cooler and also a halfway there in case engineers decided they needed a steering cooler.

 

I had a very nice 96 4runner simultaneously take out it's engine and trans when this happened... had I known it was an issue, I'd have replaced the radiator when I bought it... Anyways, I just did the timing belt, water pump and hoses on my 06 DC 4x4 with 209K (pretty sure was original) and put in a new Denso radiator at the same time. It's made in China, but I guess most are these days...

 

Re-read the above post. Both answers are correct, here is why.

The OP does not state what engine he has. There were two in 1st gen Tundras. The 3.4 which was just like the one used in 3rd Gen 4Runners from 96-02 and were Somewhat prone (after 10 years or so of radiator age) to the Pink.

The other is the 4.7, which is what post #3 in the above link describes, notice that guys signature, he has a 4.7. The OP didn't say which he had but I highly suspect it was/is the 3.4, which is a tough little engine otherwise.

Hope that helps clear things up. So to re-state any Toyota product with the 3.4 can be said to be prone (a little) to the Pink, the 4.7 and 5.7 cannot suffer the same fate due to improved designs.

Luck and enjoy those Toyotas. : ^ )))

 

What about the ‘19 and ‘20 with the transmission cooler change? Could those give you a pink milkshake in 10 years or so? Or are the fittings different? TIA.

 

I think you took a wrong turn at Albuquerque.

 

Have you researched the transmission cooler changes in ‘19 and ‘20?

 

I doubt it since he has a first gen and this is a first gen section...

 

Oops. Which way to Albuquerque?

 

Where is @bmf4069 when ya need him

 

He was a bad boy and was banned for 3 days due to beating up on turd gen’rs? He is back!

 

What improved design? I'm so confused. My 4.7, and everyone else's that I've ever heard of, has a ATF heatexchanger in the radiator. What exactly was improved?

 

My bad - it does appear the 4.7 was designed the same as the 3.4 as far as the trans cooling. It's still a 'necessary' component to both warm up and cool down the tranny - same as TR4.org recommends for all 3.4 owners, replace at 10 year intervals.

Now, if you don't live in central texas with 60-90 per year 100 degree days and don't tow uphills or mountain passes or during stop/go traffic you could bypass with a large enough external cooler to get by instead of the internal cooler.

Luck all. : ^ )))

 

Where I'm at I worry more about the warm up than the cool down.

On an entirely different forum people talk about bypassing these, especially on Nissans which I guess are really bad for it...and just using the external cooler, supposedly some people have lots of miles after his mod with no problems but I'm skeptical. Generally everything on a vehicle works better warm.

 

Right the warming up to 'proper' operating temps for both engine/trans are pretty important especially to fuel efficiency and wear on trans components via slippage when cold.

Yeah now if in a predominately 'cool' environment (rarely hits over 95) and don't tow much in stop/go, hilly or mountainous terrain then it is easy to bypass a trans cooler replacing with an external. Many in these conditions still pursue the bypass route. I tried yet the cooler I choose (one model smaller than below) was insufficient while towing during stop/go and hills to keep the trans temps under 210 consistently (stop/go really does a number on it) so I went back to factory cooling + external, that works here where its often over 100 for 8+ hours a day.

There are some coolers like the one below that use an internal design to route fluid based on its viscosity, thick goes back to trans w/out going thru cooler, thinner goes thru cooler for cool down and then back to trans.

B&M 70264 SuperCooler Automatic Transmission Cooler

https://www.amazon.com/70264-SuperC...=B&M+70264&qid=1577619925&s=automotive&sr=1-1

I think its safe to do this, many many 4Runner owners go this route. Some in really cold environments even place something over the cooler to further warm up the trans fluid faster. Read thru on Tr4.org.

Then of course monitor the temps with your favorite phone based tool. Luck. : ^ )))

 

I had a mandatory vacation. When I pulled my radiator I don't remember having to disconnect any trans lines. 2 radiator hoses and a few bolts and it came out. That was a few years ago though...

 

Welcome back!

On the bottom of the radiator is two nipples for the trans lines. Separate from the coolant.

 

Any idea what thread type or size are those transmission nipples?

 

I have my old one sitting in the garage, so could check. You shouldn't need to remove the nipple from the radiator though... just put the hoses on the nipples and reinstall the spring clamps.

 

Here's my temporary bypass setup during timing belt change and radiator swap. Those are 3/8" barbed connectors for medical bypass tubing. So relatively close to that. I just pulled the lines off of the radiator nipple and plugged them into this connector I had. I did use some tubing clamps to pinch the tubing off before disconnecting to prevent spilling the fluid.

 

I didn’t realize this is an issue with the tundras. Now it’s got me thinking about doing a preventative replacement, my truck currently has 280k miles and still running the original radiator.
Looks like I’ve got two available from Amazon, surprisingly the tyc has a lifetime warranty and the denso only one year.



Which one would y’all get?

 

I'm totally bypassing the transmission tank inside the radiator. Wanted to get some plugs. I'm assuming they're either JIC 37 or SAE45 since the nut mates the flare tubing onto flared end.

The problem isn't with just Tundras it's any radiator > transmission fluid warmer setup. The problem is when you find out it's already too late and it's in your transmission. Get the Denso one. Those usually run $130-$140 USD on Amazon. I got one to replace my Dad's 2000 Tundra like 10 years ago when the top of the plastic tank cracked 200k miles. It's been 300k+ miles since I did the bypass on his truck and the transmission is fine. I got the torq pro app today since it could read the transmission temp. 70F outside, coolant was holding 185F and transmission was at 170F on the highway doing 70 mph.

 

My new '05 tundra had an awful coolant leak, so I ordered one of these

$103 AutoShack Radiator for 2001-2007 Toyota Sequoia 2004-2006 Tundra 4.7L V8 4WD RWD High-Performance Replacement RK910

AutoShack RK910 27.4in. Complete Radiator Replacement for 2004-2006 Toyota Tundra 2001-2007 Sequoia 4.7L

$103 AutoShack Radiator for 2001-2007 Toyota Sequoia 2004-2006 Tundra 4.7L V8 4WD RWD High-Performance Replacement RK910

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B08FBKC8SK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

this is specific to the 04-06 pocket, but they may have other models to fit yours, price was the best I could find.
After one week, it has shipped, and was last seen in my nw ont town, but haven't been notified where to pick it up. Provided I get details on monday where to pick it up, that is unbeatable price and delivery times.

Took the existing off, pressure washed, pressure tested and jb welded the worst offending cracks, and reinstalled. Pressure tested the trans cooler section as well to alleviate pink milkshake concerns, and have began slowly swapping the original 'lifetime' trans fluid with an amsoil product. original fluid is in good shape, but strangely has no ATF stank to it at all.. 300,000km



Over on the darkweb(TW) gearcruncher has an awesome write-up of how operating temps effect the lifetime of atf.. I would not happily bypass transcooler if towing, or carrying heavy loads, or hard driving... .02

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...l-toyotas-write-up-with-many-pictures.526283/

in my modest opinion, his word is gospel