Help Please

I own a 2012 Tundra 4-door with 95k on it. I am the original owner.

I joined this forum to get insight, help, and confidence to change out my oil control valve(s) that has thrown a code and apparently failed. I can reset the check engine light, but after about 50 miles it came back on.

YouTube makes changing these out look pretty easy. Should I change all four of them at once or just the bad one? How do I know which one is bad? The AutoZone scan said the "A" oil control valve is no good, but I don't know which one that is. And this filter screen I've seen talked about, where is it? Is there one for each oil control valve? They're also referred to as VVT I believe. They look to be very easy to get to.

Thanks for any help I can get,

Robert Baffrey
Fernley, NV

 

Who changed your oil last? What did they put in there? What did they use as a filter? Did they properly install the filter? When was the last oil change?

I would bet on something else going on rather than the oil control valve being the actual problem.

 

The oil was changed at an Express Lube facility and done on schedule. The oil is a 0-20w synthetic and I have no idea what filter they put on there. If the filter wasn't on correctly, it would leak so I'm not sure where you're going there. Why would the oil control valve throw a code if the problem is something else? It would be easy enough to change the oil again in the event that the wrong engine oil was used. Would incorrect oil cause it throw this code?

Can anyone tell me where the screen for the oil control valves is located? At this point, I'm feeling like I should just change out all four of these valves and be done with it!

 

Tundras don't use normal oil filters. It would not leak if they put the wrong filter in it. See the google pic below. The filter element changes, but the cap is a permanent part of the truck that is reused.

 

Interesting. I didn't know the Tundra used this type of filter. If the wrong filter was used, why would it throw an oil control valve code? I would think you could leave the filter out completely and it still shouldn't give that code. Unless of course, the code is false.

 

If the metal perforated tube in the above photo is missing, the filter will twist and collapse and you'll get the check engine code you're seeing.

 

So, I’m curious why a collapsed or twisted filter would throw an oil control valve code. It even says it’s the “A” control valve. I have no idea which is which yet.
It’s definitely something for me to check though. This did start shortly after my last service.
Thanks to everyone for your input. When this gets resolved I’ll post the resulting information.

 

The codes are a best guess based on a preprogrammed decision tree. Quick oil change shops aren't staffed by trained automotive technicians, they're staffed by people under the gun to get a customer in and out quickly. As an example, my daughter took her car (Corolla S) in for an oil change and they told her there was a chance that the fill cap would break when they tried to remove it due to the vacuum created by the engine when it had been run before arriving. Some will try upselling as many products as possible, but most just want you in and out in a certain amount of time. Making the rash assumption that they actually did change the filter (it's often overlooked on a busy day), they most certainly used one from the lowest bidder. It's also a certainty that they didn't take care when installing it. Grabbing the old filter with pliers to take it out can result in the perforated tube being removed with the filter. One collapsed filter later and the computer says that it should (not must, just should since the filter can't collapse due to the perforated tube) be the valve. Get it to a qualified mechanic (as opposed to the guy that was flipping burgers last Tuesday), tell him the sequence of events, and find out what's really wrong. I wouldn't drive it much, it could be starving for oil if the filter's collapsed.

 

Yes, I wouldn't drive it at all until you take the filter out and figure out if anything has gone wrong down there. It isn't hard to get the filter off, but you'll need to drop the skid plate down and purchase the special tool to remove the filter housing.

 

Will do, thanks for the advice.

I'm thinking about purchasing a code reader. Can anyone recommend an affordable and reliable/quality unit? I see they can be purchased at AutoZone, but I don't want to buy junk.

Thanks,
Robert

 

I use an Actron code reader. It was reasonably priced, a little over $100. It gives the code and a description of the code as well. It also gives live data.. temps, RPM's etc from the engine. Had it for several years with no issues. I couldn't do without it.

 

Many thanks.

 

Thank you everyone. I pulled my filter off this afternoon and sure enough, big problems in there. See pictures. Now I need to find a replacement tube!

 

The bigger problem is how crappy jiffy lube is. The part number you need (call your local dealerships to see if they have one) is

$75 156200S010 Genuine Toyota (15620-0S010) Oil Filter Cap Assembly

156200S010.

 

I drove the truck to work today, 70 miles round trip, with no issues. Hopefully, all is well now. I'm still going to try to get the Express Lube to give me some money back, at least the oil change portion. They also changed my air filter and cabin air filter. At this point, I'll be happy with that. The manager is supposed to call tomorrow.

 

Quick lube is for suckas.

If it doesnt take at least two beers to change engine oil and filters... You're doing it wrong

I dont even trust dealers. Then again I seem to have trust issues

 

I'm not a lawyer, but getting a refund may release them from liability if there's engine damage.

 

If the OP is original owner and has never handled the oil filter before now, where did the metal filter cap come from? I wonder if the loss of the support tube is related (as it needs to be swapped over from stock plastic), and if the plastic one got broken at some point.

 

OP here. Now that you mention it and stirred up my memory, quite a while back, the mechanic that serviced my truck said that the plastic cap broke or cracked because it was on so tight. I don't know who did that, but it wasn't me. They replaced it with a metal one at that time. So that answers that. Tonight after work, I stopped by Express Lube and spoke with the manager about my oil light troubles after getting a service from them. I showed him the pictures of the collapsed oil filter and had copies of the receipts for the replacement parts I had to buy. He was real cool about it all, apologized, and then refunded my credit card for all of their charges ($140). Yes, I'm still out about the same money that their service cost, but I thought he did the right thing for me. Will I have it serviced there again? Probably not. Most likely, I'll do it myself.

Thanks everyone.

 

This is the right answer!

 

Adding to what audiowize said, look at your oil pressure gauge. Does it read below 1/4 at idle with the engine up to operating temperature? Was the code specifically for the oil control valve or was it a camshaft/crankshaft correlation code? As for the screens you ask about, they are located under a plate and are accessed by removing the valve covers and the plate I mentioned. If you remove the oil filter cup to verify the presence of the metal support tube, look for any metallic debris in the bottom after removing the filter (you will need a new O-Ring which comes with the filter. These are great engines and things typically don’t happen like this without a reason. Also do yourself a favor and avoid the “quick lube” places. I’m a dealership technician and I’ve replaced many engines due to errors coming from those places. Honestly, the dealership is cost competitive with these joints anyway. Just my thoughts, feel free to ask any questions you might have.

 

Currently, my check engine light is off and has been for the last 250 miles or so. I've replaced the oil filter and installed the perforated tube that was missing. Granted, an oil control valve was changed out too, but I think it was probably fine. Now that I've confirmed an actual problem and resolved it, I'm going to consider this issue closed.

I do appreciate everyone's assistance.