Rim/Wheel Discussion: Stock vs Steelys vs Aftermarket

Looking into upgrading from stock and Im looking for rims with specs that align with oem. Have my eyes on some Pro Comp 69 series or some Vision steelys but they’re specs don’t match exactly. Thinking about how it affects the ride quality. Might just pressure clean/raptor-liner my current stock wheels. Just wondering potential positives/drawbacks to upgrading.

See lots of dudes with Method EVs

 

I have the best luck with OEM steel and alloy wheels.

 

maybe these could work for you https://www.tundras.com/threads/various-parts-oem-off-my-2008-dc.90589/

 

Another vote for OEM.

 

OEM or SCS has the right offset for 1st Gens, but they’re expensive and sometimes hard to find. OEM wheels from many other models of Toyota (Tacos, 4Runners) can also be used, as long as they have the same number of lugs. So there’s a lot of choice using OEM.

 

Oem, they are cheap and plentiful used

 

I gave away my oxidized starfish OEs and replaced with Method 301 (all 5, same size, factory offset). No difference in ride quality that I'm aware of.

 

OEM for least amount of issues/rub/offset problems etc. Inexpensive and plenty available on used market.

Aftermarket for something different and personalize your truck.

 

I was able to find really nice OEM TRD wheels for barely more than Toyota steelies with a little shopping around and a free shipping coupon on parts.toyota.com

 

Is there a list of the different offsets of 6 lug toyota wheels?

 

I purchased my 2005 DC in February and am the second owner. I am extremely happy with the truck but the only drawback to me were the MB Wheels. The rims are nice but are not my style. I had been on the fence regarding a swap back to OEM wheels but I couldn't justify some of the prices that I was seeing. I have seen many Tundras with OEM rims that look really sharp in this forum, but I didn't want to pay the big dollar for them. I found a guy who had 4 rims for sale from his 2006 DC on Craigslist. On Monday, I went over to see the rims. They were dirty from being in his attic for the last five years, but I gave him $100 and took them home. I had the tires (265/70R16) swapped from the MB Wheels to the OEM rims on Tuesday. I cleaned up the OEMs and I couldn't be happier with the end result. The OEM rims are definitely for me. I like to see the Toyota emblem on the center caps.

 

On YouTube I see some tundra owners get Ultras. Mine came with the truck when I bought it so I haven’t been able to find which rims I have online. Ultra 6 spoke 16’ idk. Love how they look, but the only problem is I can’t get a conventional tire iron to fit in the lug slots.

 

I now have the MB Legacy Wheels from Discount Tire posted for sale on Craigslist. I am not looking to make a lot of money, but I would like to see them find a good home. Does this forum have a "marketplace" where other First Gen owners can look?

 

Yep.

https://www.tundras.com/forums/1st-gen-tundra-parts-marketplace-2000-2006.4/

 

Thanks gonna keep the OG star fish OEs

Pressure washing then blacking them out with raptor liner
+
Getting new center hubs

 

One benefit that people forget is those are forged rather than cast. Lighter and stronger than most aftermarket wheels. If you aren't going to a bigger tire then stay with them.

 

Level 8 MK6 (17x8) -10 offset. 265/70-17. I went aftermarket hub centric due to issues with no one locally being able to properly balance the Toyota lug centric wheels. These balance very well and ride very smooth.

 

Any drawbacks to keeping them with a bigger tire?

thinking about lifting and going with 285/75/r16s

 

Depends on a few things.

If your truck is lifted to fit the 285s, you are very likely going to need wheel spacers (or adapters). The backspace on OEM wheels is very deep and a wider tire will hit the upper control arm. When these trucks are lifted the tire gets pulled closer to the upper control arm and minimizes the clearance.

I never ran spacers on any vehicle, just my preference. Lots of guys run 1.25" or 1.5" spidertrax or similar without a problem.

If you want a bigger tire without rubbing, 265/75/16 is a step up from stock, basically a 32x10.5 tire, might need very minor trimming to fit. 255/85/16 is taller at roughly 33x10 tire. You'll need to do minor trimming to fit but won't likely hit your control arms.

By minor trimming I mean shaving the inner corner of the front bumper, trimming or removing the mudflap, possibly bending the body pinch weld back. All stuff you can do easily and won't hurt a thing.

 

gotcha, what are drawbacks to running the spacers?

Planning on doing some trimming, grabbing some 5100’s for the lift.

Aiming to level the front w/ the rear

 

I dont think ive ever seen proof, but i consider myself smart enough to trust my assumption that moving the load further from the spindle will affect bearing wear.

 

Just more parts really, 24 more nuts to check the torque on. The bad reputation for spacers really comes from the type where it is a big washer with holes for your lugs and puts your wheels further out on the lug studs. The kind you would need are different and don't present the scary factor. Be sure to get the hub centric kind, that is important.

Some say it puts more stress on wheel bearings, which has some merit, but thats no different than running a wheel with less backspacing.

Here are the type, you don't have to buy from here obviously.

 

More parts but in theory it puts the same amount of stress on bearings as if I were to switch to rims w/ less backspace than the OEs?

so spacers would be less cash than replacing all the rims if I’m going w/ 285/75/16s?

 

Yup.

 

Good shit man

So if I decide against the lift and go with some 4600s, what’s the biggest tire I could go on the oes

 

The age old question. I had a neighbor running 265/75/16 BGF AT with no lift on stock wheels. I never asked him if it rubbed or if he trimmed anything, never saw it leave the driveway really.

I believe there is a thread that lists biggest size stock somewhere in here. I would hate to tell you to run that size and then you are hitting frame.

Edit- here it is, according to this thread the biggest is the larger stock size of 265/70/75
https://www.tundras.com/threads/largest-tire-you-can-run-stock-for-all-generations.9762/

It also depends a lot on the tire. We had a member here with a totally stock truck running 285/75/16 michelin defender tires with only minor rub on frame. Those tires are basically a big street tire with mild tread.

 

I've been curious for a while if one could save some weight with AM alloys vs OEM metal.

 

It is feasible but it would have to be a skinny wheel. The part I would be concerned with is trying to get a lighter wheel that would likely be cast aluminum, I can only imagine a weaker structure that way.

To be really honest the stock wheels are very well built and light weight. To me they just don't have the backspacing I want our of a wheel, they tuck in too far. I really like the split 5 spoke design on the 05/05 models.

 

Planning on running some Kenda Klever R/Ts maybe M/Ts so probably not gonna F around and just get some spacers with the 5100s.

Any UCA recommendations?

 

A lot of guys run SPC arms and like them. They flip the ball joint to gain more articulation and the ball joint also has alignment adjustability, that only helps if your alignment tech understands how to use that.

There is a cheaper version of the same arm made by Mevotech. It is kind of hard to find.

There is a fairly new upper arm that is similar made by JBA, I have only seen one or two members here run those and they have been out for maybe a year. Too soon for a proven track record.

I wouldn't go for Camburg, Total Chaos, Solo, Light Racing, Tuff Country or any other uniball arm for your application, they are very expensive and would be overkill. That said I have run Camburg since 2009 without issue but I live in rust-free California.