6112 bilstein 1.9 w/stock off-road rear or something else??

Hello from west sacramento guys! So I'm looking to bring my stock CM 21 trd off-road to at least the pro height. I ordered all my color match parts from my dealer except I believe sparks is the only source for matched front bumpers. I got the Oem tss window and tonneau. Wife said I can lift it but we don't want it too much bc of babies and car seats.

Would you guys recommend going 6112 at 1.9 and stock rear for now or something else? Later on I may go to a 3-4 inch lift my main goal is to still have ease with the kids, factory or better ride and the ability to get through some rough logging roads camping. Not looking to race across wash board terrain. YET. HAHA

The truck had 3 miles on it so the rears are new. I have a great shop who has 6112 in stock ready to shop if anyone else is looking.

I appreciate any information or recommendations. I'm hoping to go eventually to a metric 33x11 I believe in the future. The shop is doing the install and budget was 1200 to start.

Thank You Guys

 

i have 6112 up front with SPC Upper control arms and 5100 in rear. Also did rear toytec shackle set at 1.5. Ride was great on road but too stiff and harsh on bumps. Also wife thought it was too high. Next week tore apart and set fronts at 1.9 and rear shackle at plus 1. Truck rides much better and height it perfect. Still not Tundra pro smooth. But way better than stock.

 

If i had to do it over i would go with fox 2.5 coilovers and have Acutune valve them.

 

but for your budget, prob good

 

Eyyy.....a local guy!
I have 6112's at 1.9 and it levels it perfectly. I just left the factory TRD Off-Road shocks in the rear. I may end up getting some 5160's for the rear, but not high on my priority.

Sounds like its a good option to go until the car seats aren't an issue, anything over 2" lift you are going to want to get UCA's.

 

For mine, I did front with a two inch lift via shocks, then I added a blue set of Sumo springs to the rear and it now rides better than stock and is level.
Roll rate is way down and it tracks turns much better without being much stiffer.

 

I'm doing the same - 6112s up front to level it out and leaving the rear stock. I was going to see how it rides before I did the rear suspension, but the sumo springs sound like a good idea.

 

The Sumos act like a rear sway bar without the negatives of a sway bar for off road.
They are very flexible in how they are used. With mine, I have them touching frame barely when sitting on the ground.
Others cut a biscuit off so they have clearance before they engage. By having initial engagement and the way they are designed to be progressive, they act like a superb sway bar that changes into helper springs as the load increases.
I have an enclosed trailer that is a single axle design and when loaded with motorcycles and the truck being level, the trailer almost disappears while towing.
Use the Blue units, not the black or yellow.

 

6112s at 1.9
Stock TRD rear with Firestone airbags.
Had about 1/2" of rake.

This truck was totally comfortable "racing across washboard terrain".

 

Perfect! No rubbing at all anywhere? Did you by chance shim the bumper at all or anything like that? Great looking truck!

 

I have 6112 on the second lowest setting with one CB on each side.
The ride is way too stiff on any road bump and I've never been happy with it.
The road bumps now are BONE JARRING to say the least.
Love the 2.5" lift I got, but hate the ride.

5160s in the rear with Toytec shackles on 1" setting, but I think 95% of the stiff ride comes from the 6112s.

Did lowering the 6112 setting really make that much difference?

I've been tempted to put the boat-like black shocks back on, but with a bigger tire size it would probably rub.
And I really like the lifted/level look.

 

So 1.9 is the lowest setting?
I can't see lowering mine down 1 notch making that much difference, but ti would be worth a try...


Y'all think removing the shim and lowering the 6112 would make the ride any smoother?
Or does the shim make that much difference?

 

That's kind of what I was thinking - I almost bought the TRD sway bar, but didn't want to add one more thing that could get caught underneath. I think the Sumos will fit the bill nicely - the rear end feels a little too squishy (floats?) to me.

 

I used the Rough Country levelers on the front with no shimming. I picked up two inches of lift with very good suspension cycling.
They handle the small stuff nicely and big stuff better than the stock units I pulled.
The Blue Sumos on the back were added for increased loads and as an intelligent sway bar effector.
The truck is done as far as suspension is concerned. (real world / real time) usage in my mind.
Cost? $263.00 for the Rough Countrys and $209.00 for the Sumos (Blue)

 

No rubbing. No shims. The tires pictured are 295/70r18. I mostly ran the 285/75r17 on Rock Warrior wheels though. Same height tires and neither rubbed in any situation.

 

1.9 is the second lowest with the lowest being stock height. Mine rode and handled better than stock by a mile. Especially on rougher roads and off road.

Sounds like you may have something else going on. What size tires and wheels are you running? E or F rated and what PSI are you running? If you are in fact on the top setting with shims, are you running new UCA's? If not, how's your alignment look?

 

My 18’ with 6112 @1.9 was done at 4,500 miles. There was an immediate improvement in ride quality. At 34,000 now and the truck still rides and handles as good as it did on day one.

 

Mine are on the second lowest setting with a shim that gave me 2.5 of lift.
Ride is fine as long as I don't go over any bumps, potholes, or seams in the concrete..
In other words, the ride sucks, it always has.

Running KO2s 275/60/20 tires at 42 PSI any less and they don't wear correctly, any more and the ride is even stiffer.

So many are happy with the 6112/5160 combo, but my ride is stiff as ****...

 

That’s strange because the 6112s on my Tundra, and the ones on my Sequoia, shine on rough spots in the road. I’m wondering if you need an alignment. Especially if you’re thinking that your tire wear is bad at any lower psi than that. I have KO2s as well and run about 36psi.

 

I will ditto the fact that alignment can impact ride quality. I have experienced that myself in my stock suspension Tundra. When it is off bad enough (and I really didnt have any bad tire wear, everything looked normal) it seemed like the suspension, steering, tires were all fighting each other and technically there is some truth to that. Finally found a shop that did a correct alignment after a couple tries from other shops and there was an immediate improvement in ride and handling, especially at highway speed.

 

I guess I'll have to look into that.
Just had the dealership do my front and rear brakes at 80K miles.
Drove thru their alignment thing and they said it was fine.

I'll try lowering the tire pressure again and see how that goes..
It's about time to buy new tires..
I thought about an SL rated tire, Discount Tire is really pushing their own special Goodyear tire, but I never had much luck with Goodyear.

Goodyear Wrangler UltraTerrain AT | Discount Tire

Really planned on getting Cooper AT3 XLT.

Cooper Discoverer AT3 XLT | Discount Tire

@frichco228 that is exactly what it feels like to me.
Something is fighting something else that equals a rough ride.
Whether it is front and rear, or whatever.

It's fine on a flat road, but any bumps (literally ANY bumps) in the road (city or highway) gives me a jarring ride.
Wife hates it because we always take my truck.

Sorry to the OP for the thread drift..

 

Starting to sound more and more like alignment woes to me. With anything other than factory suspension, tire sizes, and wheel offsets it's best to find an old school alignment tech that knows what they're doing. I'm fortunate that a local mom and pop shop around me has an older guy, who is meticulous and loves to tinker with Toyotas, as their alignment tech. He only does alignments and does it with a half burnt cigarette hanging out of his mouth the whole time (you know the type)... he's awesome.

 

Hey that's okay,, much rather you fix your problems, are you on 20" wheels by chance? And I was going to do same level upgrade shock in rear 5160 in the future. I want no rake so do I need a shim too? And I had seen the icon and uca lift upgrade however it seems as if to an extent for my uses there'll be dimished returns for the increased the cost. This is far and above better than the 3"/2" readylift spacers the dealership wanted to put on since bilsteins were back ordered everywhere. @BOSS4x4 Darren and nigel were awesome to deal with got my 6112 assembled with new hats and delivered in 3 days.

Sumo springs? Seen them mentioned never looked into them are they a extra spring? Airbag?mbetter than the trd sway bar? I don't know will I need shackles for the rear to get the pro height? Thanks for the help guys

 

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't believe the Pro is any higher in the rear - just leveled up in the front. And I'll try to answer as best I can about the sumo springs - they're a dense material that replaces your factory bump stops. Do pretty much the same thing as an airbag, but you don't have to have on board air. They're mostly used to prevent your rear from sagging when loaded/towing, but they will also prevent some body roll - this tightens up the ride like the sway bar does. This could be seen as a negative if you're big into off-roading, as it will decrease articulation in the rear. I don't think they're necessarily better than the TRD sway bar, but I'm leaning that way just because the sway bar does hang downwards while these are on top of your leaf springs (ie, one less thing that can get caught on the ground). Last thing - if you go with sumo springs, most guys here reccomend the blue ones (light/medium duty) for everyday driving.

 

So you're using a .50 shim to give you another 1" of lift? Cause second lowest setting on Bilstein 6112's is 1.3"

 

My CB shims give a 1/2" of lift..

Coachbuilder Strut / Coilover Shim ( Provides .50” of lift ) Tundra 20 – Shop Coachbuilder (shop-coachbuilder.myshopify.com)

I somehow ended up with 2.5 of lift with 1 of shims on each side and the 6112s on the second lowest setting..

After months of reading about it, I thought the 6112 on a lower setting and then using a shim would give me a smoother ride putting less compression on the spring.
Apparently I was wrong.
Maybe I should have left the shim out and used a higher setting on the 6112.

 

This setup has worked excellent for us over the years and would love some additional feedback.

When installing did you loosen the upper control arm pivot bolt and then re torque once the truck was sitting down on the ground at its new height? sometimes its easy to forget this step but makes a noticeable difference in ride quality. Feel free to call in if you have any other questions.

https://shop-coachbuilder.myshopify.com

 

The height settings are different on a DC than they are on a CM truck.

 

Are the different from a 2WD and a 4WD?

 

Not sure David, I had someone install them 4 years ago...
I was hoping they would break in and soften up over time.

The ride is flat out stiff as it was the day he installed them...